Across Mexico, in villages and cities, in mountains, tropical coasts, and jungle settings, enchanting surprises await travelers. These might take the form of a fantastic small-town festival, delightful dining in a memorable restaurant, or even a stretch of road through heavenly countryside. This section lists our favorites, to which you'll have the pleasure of adding your own discoveries.
Festival de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe: This annual celebration leads up to Día de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, celebrated throughout Mexico on December 12. The Virgin of Guadalupe is the patron saint of Mexico, and is also identified with the Aztec earth goddess and mother of humankind. The basilica just outside of Mexico City features the largest celebration and the most impressive crowd of impassioned believers, but perhaps the best place to view the festivities is in Puerto Vallarta, where they continue around the clock for 12 days. It is a visual delight.
Days of the Dead: People across the country celebrate Los Días de los Muertos (Oct 31-Nov 2); they erect altars for the dead, with marigolds (the flower of the dead) and offerings of food and drink. The most popular celebrations happen in the villages around Pátzcuaro and in the valley of Oaxaca. People head out to the cemetery for all-night vigils and sing and pray for the souls of the dearly departed. During the day, markets sell crafts and special items made just for the festival.
Carnaval: Mexico has two particularly notable celebrations. Festivities in Veracruz fill the 3 days before Ash Wednesday, with fabulous floats, dancing in the plaza, and live entertainment. Mazatlán's party lasts a full week before Lent, with parades, strolling musicians, and crowds of revelers along the entire length of the malecón.
Holy Week: The silver city of Taxco hosts one of the most compelling Holy Week commemorations in the country, beginning the Friday before Palm Sunday with nightly processions (and several during the day). On the evening of Holy Thursday, villagers carrying saints from the surrounding area march ahead of hooded members of a society of self-flagellating penitents. On the Saturday morning before Easter, the Plaza Borda fills for the Procession of Three Falls, which reenacts the three times Christ stumbled and fell while carrying the cross. In San Miguel de Allende, Pátzcuaro and surrounding communities, and Oaxaca, the solemn weeklong commemoration involves nightly candlelit processions through the streets and other religious events.
La Fiesta de los Locos: In San Miguel de Allende, a town known for celebrations, this one is the most fun for visitors. Young and old alike dress in grotesque costumes and parade around the center of town, or in dressed-up carts, to musical accompaniment. Keep an eye open for practical jokes.
Guelaguetza: On the last 2 Mondays in July, Oaxaca puts on a big show. Dance groups from communities across the state perform in the amphitheater on the hillside above the city.
"Night of the Radishes": Unique in the country, December 23 in Oaxaca is when the Oaxaqueños build fantastic sculptures out of radishes flowers, and dried cornhusks. They go on display on the zócalo. On December 24, each Oaxacan church organizes a procession with music, floats, and crowds bearing candles.
"Gourmet Festival": This festival of fine dining held in Puerto Vallarta brings together some of the world's finest chefs creating magical menus in the town's top restaurants. Added attractions include a gourmet food expo, cooking classes, tequila and wine tastings, and an array of special events and parties. Dates vary, but the festival generally takes place for 10 days in mid-November. www.festivalgourmet.com.
Polanco & Condesa, Mexico City: Mexico City, like any world capital, has sizzling nightlife. Latin, Cuban, and alternative music rock in the Polanco neighborhood; Condesa is nicknamed the SoHo of Mexico City, due to its architecture and galleries. Its trendy club scene evokes the culture's roots in Madrid and Barcelona. Arrive fashionably late -- the party doesn't start before midnight.
Guadalajara's Sophisticated Scene: Nightlife here extends to theater, classical music, jazz, and salsa, never forgetting mariachi music -- which, when done properly, requires vocalists to really flaunt their talent.
Puerto Vallarta: Of all the beach destinations, Puerto Vallarta enjoys the most sophisticated and varied nightlife. An excellent selection of small clubs features live jazz, blues, salsa, and good old rock 'n' roll. You'll also find mariachi, pre-Columbian, and traditional Mexican ballads. Heating up the scene are a new group of contemporary clubs and lounges with DJs spinning house, trance, and chill.
Acapulco Dance Clubs: Nightlife can't possibly get more lavish, extravagant, or flashy than it is in Acapulco, Mexico's hands-down diva. This city's main cultural attractions are the clubs that jam until sunrise, several of which have walls of windows overlooking the bay.
The Lively Offerings of San Cristóbal de las Casas: Small though it may be, this city has a live-music scene that can't be beat for fun and atmosphere. It's inexpensive, too. This is the perfect place to do some barhopping: It offers variety, convenience (everything is within walking distance), and few if any cover charges.
Cancún's Clubs in Malls: Cancún's wide-ranging hot spots include most of the name-brand nightlife destinations, concentrated in entertainment malls and festival shopping centers, as well as hotel-lobby bars with live music, and sophisticated dance clubs. Popular nightlife tours allow you to bypass lines and sample various clubs in a single night. The clubs here can accommodate up to 3,000, and there are plenty of options for staying out until the sun comes up.
Cabo San Lucas Beach Bars: In the nightlife capital of Baja California, after-dark fun centers on the casual bars and restaurants that line the main drag, as well as those on the town's public Medano Beach. The place retains a rowdy, outlaw feel, despite the influx of tony hotels nearby. A new lounge scene is, thankfully, updating this lively town's nightlife.
Baja California -- A peninsula longer than Italy, Baja stretches 1,402km (869 miles) from its border with California at Mexico's northernmost city of Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas at its southern tip. On one side is the Pacific Ocean; on the other, the Sea of Cortez. Volcanic uplifting created the craggy desertscape you see today. Culturally and geographically, Baja sits apart from mainland Mexico, and it remained isolated for centuries. The southern tip of Baja has evolved into a vacation haven, offering golf, fishing, diving, and whale-watching in beautiful settings and at posh resorts. Mid-Baja is known more for its ecological excursions.
The Copper Canyon -- The Copper Canyon is the common name for a region of roughly 16,800 sq. km (6,487 sq. miles) in the northern state of Chihuahua, midway between the state's capital city and the Pacific coast. Here you'll find a network of canyons deeply etched into the volcanic rock of the Sierra Tarahumara. The dramatic canyon area is one of those rare places where one can sense the earth's creation. To get there, you ride the famous Chihuahua al Pacífico railroad. It starts at the seaport of Topolobampo, outside Los Mochis, and runs 624km (387 miles) to Chihuahua City, climbing to 2,425m (7,954 ft.) above sea level in the process. The train skirts the edge of more than 20 canyons. Tours can accommodate any kind of traveler, from primitive camper to modern hotel patron.
The Pacific Coast -- The Pacific coast has virtually every kind of beach and landscape imaginable. You can stay in modern resorts that offer inexhaustible arrays of amenities and activities, from sailing to scuba diving to golf, capped off by exuberant nightlife. Or you can stay in a sleepy coastal town where the scenery abounds with rustic charm, life is slower, and the beaches are quieter. By Mazatlán, the northern desert disappears, replaced by tropical vegetation and plantations of coconut and other fruit. At Puerto Vallarta, mountains covered in tropical forests meet the sea. For many, this is the most appealing place on the coast. From here, it's a 5-hour car ride inland to Guadalajara, the most Mexican of cities and a superb place to shop. Tropical forests interspersed with banana, mango, and coconut palm plantations cover the coast from Puerto Vallarta to Manzanillo. Well south of Manzanillo, in the state of Guerrero, are the beach towns Zihuatanejo and Ixtapa. Tree-covered mountains remain around Acapulco, though hillside development has marred them. From Acapulco, a road leads inland to Taxco, a mountainside colonial city famed for its hundreds of silver shops. Farther south along the coast are the beach villages of Puerto Escondido and Puerto Angel, and beyond them, the nine gorgeous bays of Huatulco.
The North-Central Region -- This funnel-shaped region stretches from the northern border with Texas and New Mexico to Mexico City and includes the beautiful colonial silver cities. The majority of this territory lies in the vast Chihuahua/Coahuila desert of the north between the two great Sierra Madre ranges, which meet in the south to form the central valley of Mexico. The colonial cities nestle in the mountains not far north and west of Mexico City.
The Gulf Coast -- Of all Mexico, this region is probably the least known, yet the whole coast, which includes the long, skinny state of Veracruz, holds marvelous pockets of scenery and culture. Highway 180 leads from Matamoros at the Texas border and offers a few glimpses of the Gulf of Mexico. Highlights of this region are the ruins of El Tajín, near the mountain village of Papantla; the mountain town of Xalapa, Veracruz's capital and home of the magnificent Museo de Antropología; and the lively, colorful port of Veracruz. This is a good region to visit if you're longing for the Mexico of yesteryear.
Tarascan Country -- This region, in the state of Michoacán, presents two distinct visions of colonial architecture: Pátzcuaro, a town of tile roofs and adobe walls painted traditional white with dark-red borders; and Morelia, a stately city of stone mansions, broad plazas, and a monumental cathedral. The eastern part of the state consists of high mountains with large tracts of pine and fir forests. Every year, millions of monarch butterflies make the long journey to congregate in a small part of the forest here. The central part of the state, a land of lakes, is the homeland of the Purépecha or Tarascan Indians. The villages throughout this area specialize in crafts for which the region is well known. Farther west lie the hot lands and the coast. Tourists largely neglect Michoacán, except during the Days of the Dead.
Oaxaca & Chiapas -- This is the southern land of the Zapotec, Mixtec, and Maya cultures. Most people fly around this region, but a toll highway from near Puebla to Oaxaca City makes the area more accessible by car. The valley of Oaxaca is one of the grandest places in Mexico: fascinating Indian villages, beautiful ruins, and a wonderful colonial city. San Cristóbal de las Casas, in Chiapas, is harder to get to, but definitely worth the effort. Approaching San Cristóbal from any direction, you see small plots of corn tended by colorfully clad Maya. Oaxaca and Chiapas are rich in craftspeople, from woodcarvers to potters to weavers.
The Yucatan Peninsula -- Travelers to the peninsula have an opportunity to see pre-Hispanic ruins -- such as Chichén Itzá, Uxmal, and Tulum -- and the living descendants of the cultures that built them, as well as the ultimate in resort Mexico: Cancún. The peninsula borders the dull aquamarine Gulf of Mexico on the west and north, and the clear blue Caribbean on the east. It covers almost 217,560 sq. km (84,000 sq. miles), with nearly 1,600km (1,000 miles) of shoreline.
Lovely rock-walled Maya villages and crumbling henequén haciendas dot the interior of the peninsula. The placid interior contrasts with the hubbub of the Caribbean coast. From Cancún south to Chetumal, the jungle coastline is spotted with all kinds of development, from posh to budget. It also boasts an enormous array of wildlife, including hundreds of species of birds. National parks near Celestún and Río Lagartos on the Gulf Coast are home to amazing flocks of flamingos.
Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips easier. Following is a selection of handy online tools to bookmark and use.
Airplane Seating & Food. Find out which seats to reserve and which to avoid (and more) on all major domestic airlines at www.seatguru.com. And check out the type of meal (with photos) you'll likely be served on airlines around the world at www.airlinemeals.com.
Visa ATM Locator (www.visa.com) and MasterCard ATM Locator (www.mastercard.com), for locations of PLUS (Visa) and Cirrus (MasterCard) ATMs worldwide.
Foreign Languages for Travelers (www.travlang.com). Learn basic terms in more than 70 languages and click on any underlined phrase to hear what it sounds like.
Intellicast (www.intellicast.com) and Weather.com (www.weather.com). Weather forecasts for all 50 states and cities around the world.
Universal Currency Converter (www.xe.net). See what your dollar or pound is worth in more than 100 other countries.
Travel Warnings (www.travel.state.gov, www.fco.gov.uk/travel, www.voyage.gc.ca, www.smartraveller.gov.au). These sites report on places where health concerns or unrest might threaten American, British, Canadian, and Australian travelers. Generally, U.S. warnings are the most paranoid; Australian warnings are the most relaxed.
Using the Telephones -- All phone numbers listed in this book have a total of 10 digits -- a two- or three-digit area code plus the telephone number. Local numbers in Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Monterrey are eight digits; everywhere else, local numbers have seven digits.
To call long distance within Mexico, dial the national long-distance code 01 before dialing the area code and then the number. Mexico's claves (area codes) are listed in the front of telephone directories. Area codes are listed before all phone numbers in this book. For long-distance dialing, you will often see the term "LADA," which is the automatic long-distance service offered by Telmex, Mexico's former telephone monopoly and its largest phone company. To make a person-to-person or collect call inside Mexico, dial tel. 020. You can also call 020 to request the correct area codes for the number and place you are calling.
To make a long-distance call to the United States or Canada, dial 001, then the area code and seven-digit number. For international long-distance numbers in Europe, Africa, and Asia, dial 00, then the country code, the city code, and the number. To make a person-to-person or collect call to outside Mexico, to obtain other international dialing codes, or for further assistance, dial tel. 090.
Abbreviations -- Dept. (apartments); Apdo. (post office box); Av. (avenida; avenue); c/ (calle; street); Calz. (calzada; boulevard). "C" on faucets stands for caliente (hot); "F" stands for fría (cold). "PB" (planta baja) means ground floor; in most buildings the next floor up is the first floor (1).
Business Hours -- In general, businesses in larger cities are open between 9am and 7pm; in smaller towns many close between 2 and 4pm. Most close on Sunday. In resort areas it is common to find stores open at least in the mornings on Sunday, and for shops to stay open late, often until 8 or even 10pm. Bank hours are Monday through Friday from 9 or 9:30am to anywhere between 3 and 7pm. Increasingly, banks open on Saturday for at least a half-day.
Cameras & Film -- Film costs about the same as in the United States. Tourists wishing to use a video or still camera at any archaeological site in Mexico or at many museums operated by the Instituto de Antropología e Historia (INAH) must pay $4 per camera at each site visited. Also, use of a tripod at any archaeological site requires a permit from INAH. It's courteous to ask permission before photographing anyone. It is never considered polite to take photos inside a church in Mexico. In some areas, such as around San Cristóbal de las Casas, there are other restrictions on photographing people and villages.
Customs -- Mexican Customs inspection has been streamlined. At most points of entry, tourists are requested to press a button in front of what looks like a traffic signal, which alternates on touch between red and green. Green light and you go through without inspection; red light and your luggage or car may be inspected. If you have an unusual amount of luggage or an oversized piece, you may be subject to inspection anyway.
What You Can Bring into Mexico When you enter Mexico, Customs officials will be tolerant as long as you have no illegal drugs or firearms. Tourists are allowed to bring in their personal effects duty-free. A laptop computer, camera equipment, and sports equipment that could feasibly be used during your stay are also allowed. The underlying guideline is: Don't bring anything that looks as if it's meant to be resold in Mexico. U.S. citizens entering Mexico by the land border can bring in gifts worth a value of up to $50 duty-free, except for alcohol and tobacco products. Those entering Mexico by air or sea can bring in gifts worth a value of up to $300 duty-free. The website for Mexican Customs ("Aduanas") is www.aduanas.sat.gob.mx/webadunet/body.htm.
What You Can Take Home from Mexico U.S. Citizens: Returning U.S. citizens who have been away for at least 48 hours are allowed to bring back, once every 30 days, $800 worth of merchandise duty-free. You'll pay a flat rate of duty on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. Any dollar amount beyond that is subject to duties at whatever rates apply. On mailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200. Be sure to keep your receipts for purchases accessible to expedite the declaration process. Note: If you owe duty, you are required to pay on your arrival in the United States -- either by cash, personal check, government or traveler's check, or money order (and, in some locations, a Visa or MasterCard).
To avoid paying duty on foreign-made personal items you owned before your trip, bring along a bill of sale, insurance policy, jeweler's appraisal, or receipts of purchase. Or you can register items that can be readily identified by a permanently affixed serial number or marking -- think laptop computers, cameras, and CD players -- with Customs before you leave. Take the items to the nearest Customs office or register them with Customs at the airport from which you're departing. You'll receive, at no cost, a Certificate of Registration, which allows duty-free entry for the life of the item.
For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov (click on "Travel," and then click on "Know Before You Go! Online Brochure"). Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667) and request the pamphlet.
Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).
U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.uk.
Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.
New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).
Doctors & Dentists -- Every embassy and consulate can recommend local doctors and dentists with good training and modern equipment; some of the doctors and dentists speak English. See the list of embassies and consulates under "Embassies & Consulates," below. Hotels with a large foreign clientele can often recommend English-speaking doctors.
Drug Laws -- It may sound obvious, but don't use or possess illegal drugs in Mexico. Mexican officials have no tolerance for drug users, and jail is their solution, with very little hope of getting out until the sentence (usually a long one) is completed or heavy fines or bribes are paid. Remember, in Mexico the legal system assumes you are guilty until proven innocent. Note: It isn't uncommon to be befriended by a fellow user, only to be turned in by that "friend," who collects a bounty. Bring prescription drugs in their original containers. If possible, pack a copy of the original prescription with the generic name of the drug.
U.S. Customs officials are on the lookout for diet drugs that are sold in Mexico but illegal in the U.S. Possession could land you in a U.S. jail. If you buy antibiotics over the counter (which you can do in Mexico) and still have some left, U.S. Customs probably won't hassle you.
Drugstores -- Farmacias (pharmacies) will sell you just about anything, with or without a prescription. Most pharmacies are open Monday through Saturday from 8am to 8pm. The major resort areas generally have one or two 24-hour pharmacies. Pharmacies take turns staying open during off hours; if you are in a smaller town and need to buy medicine during off hours, ask for the farmacia de turno.
Electricity -- The electrical system in Mexico is 110 volts AC (60 cycles), as in the United States and Canada. In reality, however, it may cycle more slowly and overheat your appliances. To compensate, select a medium or low speed on hair dryers. Many older hotels still have electrical outlets for flat two-prong plugs; you'll need an adapter for any plug with an enlarged end on one prong or with three prongs. Many better hotels have three-hole outlets (trifásicos in Spanish). Those that don't may have loan adapters, but to be sure, it's always better to carry your own.
Embassies & Consulates -- They provide valuable lists of doctors and lawyers, as well as regulations concerning marriages in Mexico. Contrary to popular belief, your embassy cannot get you out of jail, provide postal or banking services, or fly you home when you run out of money. Consular officers can provide advice on most matters and problems, however. Most countries have an embassy in Mexico City, and many have consular offices or representatives in the provinces.
The Embassy of the United States in Mexico City is at Paseo de la Reforma 305, next to the Hotel María Isabel Sheraton at the corner of Río Danubio (tel. 55/5080-2000 or 5511-9980); hours are Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 5:30pm. Visit http://mexico.usembassy.gov for addresses of the U.S. consulates inside Mexico. There are U.S. Consulates at López Mateos 924-N, Ciudad Juárez (tel. 656/611-3000); Progreso 175, Guadalajara (tel. 333/268-2100); Av. Constitución 411 Pte., Monterrey (tel. 818/345-2120); Tapachula 96, Tijuana (tel. 664/622-7400); Monterrey 141, Hermosillo (tel. 662/289-3500); Primera 2002, Matamoros (tel. 868/812-4402); Paseo Montejo 453, Mérida (tel. 999/942-5700); Calle San Jose, Nogales, Sonora (tel. 631/313-4820); and Allende 3330, Col. Jardin, Nuevo Laredo (tel. 867/714-0512). In addition, there are consular agencies in Acapulco (tel. 744/469-0556); Cabo San Lucas (tel. 624/143-3566); Cancún (tel. 998/883-0272); Cozumel (tel. 987/872-4574); Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo (tel. 755/553-2100); Mazatlán (tel. 669/916-5889); Oaxaca (tel. 951/516-2853); Puerto Vallarta (tel. 322/222-0069); San Luis Potosí (tel. 444/811-7802); and San Miguel de Allende (tel. 415/152-2357).
The Embassy of Australia in Mexico City is at Rubén Darío 55, Col. Polanco (tel. 55/51101-2200). It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 1pm.
The Embassy of Canada in Mexico City is at Schiller 529, Col. Polanco (tel. 55/5724-7900); it's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 1pm. At other times, the name of a duty officer is posted on the door. Visit www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca for addresses of consular agencies in Mexico. There are Canadian consulates in Acapulco (tel. 744/484-1305); Cancún (tel. 998/883-3360); Guadalajara (tel. 333/615-6215); Mazatlán (tel. 669/913-7320); Monterrey (tel. 818/344-2753); Oaxaca (tel. 951/513-3777); Puerto Vallarta (tel. 322/293-0098); San José del Cabo (tel. 624/142-4333); and Tijuana (tel. 664/684-0461).
The Embassy of New Zealand in Mexico City is at Jaime Balmes 8, 4th floor, Col. Los Morales, Polanco (tel. 55/5283-9460; kiwimexico@compuserve.com.mx). It's open Monday through Thursday from 8:30am to 2pm and 3 to 5:30pm, and Friday from 8:30am to 2pm.
The Embassy of the United Kingdom in Mexico City is at Río Lerma 71, Col. Cuauhtémoc (tel. 55/5242-8500; www.embajadabritanica.com.mx). It's open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 3:30pm.
The Embassy of Ireland in Mexico City is at Bulevar Cerrada, Avila Camacho 76, 3rd floor, Col. Lomas de Chapultepec (tel. 55/5520-5803). It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm.
The South African Embassy in Mexico City is at Andrés Bello 10, 9th floor, Col. Polanco (tel. 55/5282-9260). It's open Monday through Friday from 8am to 4pm.
Emergencies -- In case of emergency, dial tel. 065 from any phone within Mexico. The 24-hour Tourist Help Line in Mexico City is tel. 01-800/987-8224 or 55/5089-7500, or you can now simply dial 078. The operators don't always speak English, but they are always willing to help. The tourist legal assistance office (Procuraduría del Turista) in Mexico City (tel. 55/5625-8153 or -8154) always has an English speaker available. Though the phones are frequently busy, they operate 24 hours.
Etiquette & Customs -- Appropriate attire: Mexicans tend to dress more formally than in other North American countries. Cities are considerably more formal than rural areas. Except in beach resorts, shorts, short skirts, and sandals are uncommon and a sure sign you're not Mexican. During the workday, men are usually in business attire, while women dress in pants or long skirts. At night, fitted jeans are common.
Gestures: In Mexico, men and women may greet each other with a handshake or, more commonly, with one kiss on the right cheek, with the woman usually initiating. Between women, one kiss on the right cheek is exchanged. Men shake hands and, if friends, hug with two pats on the back (a hug is called an abrazo). Showing someone the back of your hand means, "thank you." Wiggling an index finger means, "yes, that's right."
Avoiding offense: Mexican culture tends to be indirect and polite, so that directness can sometimes be interpreted as aggressive. Mexicans value patience over punctuality. Avoid putting hands on your hips, which is an offense. Disrespectful comments about someone's family -- particularly their mother -- are considered the greatest offense.
Internet Access -- In large cities and resort areas, most hotels now offer business centers or some area with Internet access. You'll also find cybercafes in destinations that are popular with expats and business travelers. Even in remote spots, Internet access is common.
Language -- Spanish is the official language in Mexico. English is spoken and understood to some degree in most tourist areas. Mexicans are very accommodating with foreigners who try to speak Spanish, even in broken sentences. See Appendix B for a glossary of simple phrases for expressing basic needs.
Legal Aid -- International Legal Defense Counsel, 111 S. 15th St., 24th floor, Packard Building, Philadelphia, PA 19102 (tel. 215/977-9982), is a law firm specializing in legal difficulties of Americans abroad.
Liquor Laws -- The legal drinking age in Mexico is 18; however, asking for ID or denying purchase is extremely rare. Grocery stores sell everything from beer and wine to national and imported liquors. You can buy liquor 24 hours a day, but during major elections, dry laws often are enacted for as much as 72 hours in advance of the election -- and they apply to tourists as well as local residents. Mexico does not have laws that apply to transporting liquor in cars, but authorities are beginning to target drunk drivers more aggressively. It's a good idea to drive defensively.
It is not legal to drink in the street; however, many tourists do so. If you are getting drunk, you shouldn't drink in the street, because you are more likely to get stopped by the police.
Lost & Found -- To replace a lost passport, contact your embassy or nearest consular agent. You must establish a record of your citizenship and fill out a form requesting another FMT (tourist permit) if it, too, was lost. If your documents are stolen, get a police report from local authorities; having one might lessen the hassle of exiting the country without all your identification. Without the FMT, you can't leave the country, and without an affidavit affirming your passport request and citizenship, you may have problems at U.S. Customs when you get home. It's important to clear everything up before trying to leave. Mexican Customs may, however, accept the police report of the loss of the FMT and allow you to leave.
If you lose your wallet anywhere outside of Mexico City, before panicking, retrace your steps -- you'll be surprised at how honest people are, and you'll likely find someone trying to find you to return your wallet.
If your wallet is stolen, the police probably won't be able to recover it. Be sure to notify all of your credit card companies right away, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; these numbers are not toll-free within Mexico. The company may be able to wire you a cash advance off your credit card immediately, and, in many places, can deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212.
If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).
Identity theft or fraud are potential complications of losing your wallet, especially if you've lost your driver's license along with your cash and credit cards. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately; placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability for criminal activity. The three major U.S. credit-reporting agencies are Equifax (tel. 800/766-0008; www.equifax.com), Experian (tel. 888/397-3742; www.experian.com), and TransUnion (tel. 800/680-7289; www.transunion.com). Finally, if you've lost all forms of photo ID, call your airline and explain the situation; they might allow you to board the plane if you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report you've filed.
Mail -- Postage for a postcard or letter is 8 pesos; it may arrive anywhere from 1 to 6 weeks later. The price for registered letters and packages depends on the weight, and unreliable delivery time can take 2 to 6 weeks. The recommended way to send a package or important mail is through FedEx, DHL, UPS, or another reputable international mail service.
Newspapers & Magazines -- The English language newspaper is the Miami Herald published in conjunction with El Universal. You can find it at most newsstands. Newspaper kiosks in larger cities also carry a selection of English-language magazines.
Passports -- Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.
For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.
For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.dfa.ie). Those younger than age 18 and older than 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525) or at most main post offices.
For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.
For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children younger than 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.
For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. Department of State website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. Department of State website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.
Pets -- Taking a pet into Mexico is easy but requires a little planning. Animals coming from the United States and Canada need to be checked for health within 30 days before arrival in Mexico. Most veterinarians in major cities have the appropriate paperwork -- an official health certificate, to be presented to Mexican Customs officials, that ensures the pet's vaccinations are up-to-date. When you and your pet return from Mexico, U.S. Customs officials will require the same type of paperwork. If your stay extends beyond the 30-day time frame of your U.S.-issued certificate, you'll need an updated Certificate of Health issued by a veterinarian in Mexico. To check last-minute changes in requirements, consult the Mexican Government Tourist Office nearest you.
Police -- In Mexico City, police are to be suspected as frequently as they are to be trusted; however, you'll find many who are quite honest and helpful. In the rest of the country, especially in the tourist areas, most are very protective of international visitors. Several cities, including Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlán, Cancún, and Acapulco, have a special corps of English-speaking Tourist Police to assist with directions, guidance, and more.
Restrooms -- Public toilets are not common in Mexico, but an increasing number are available, especially at fast-food restaurants and Pemex gas stations. These facilities and restaurant and club restrooms commonly have attendants, who expect a small tip (about 50¢).
Smoking -- Smoking is permitted and generally accepted in most public places, including restaurants, bars, and hotel lobbies. Nonsmoking areas and hotel rooms for nonsmokers are becoming more common in higher-end establishments, but they tend to be the exception rather than the rule.
Taxes -- The 15% IVA (value-added) tax applies on goods and services in most of Mexico, and it's supposed to be included in the posted price. This tax is 10% in Cancún, Cozumel, and Los Cabos. There is a 5% tax on food and drinks consumed in restaurants that sell alcoholic beverages with an alcohol content of more than 10%; this tax applies whether you drink alcohol or not. Tequila is subject to a 25% tax. Mexico imposes an exit tax of around $24 on every foreigner leaving the country by plane.
Time Zone -- Central Time prevails throughout most of Mexico. The states of Sonora, Sinaloa, and parts of Nayarit are on Mountain Time. The state of Baja California Norte is on Pacific Time, but Baja California Sur is on Mountain Time. All of Mexico observes daylight saving time.
Tipping -- Most service employees in Mexico count on tips for the majority of their income, and this is especially true for bellboys and waiters. Bellboys should receive the equivalent of 50¢ to $1 per bag; waiters generally receive 10% to 15%, depending on the level of service. It is not customary to tip taxi drivers, unless they are hired by the hour or provide touring or other special services.
Useful Phone Numbers -- There are several helpful numbers to know: Tourist Help Line, available 24 hours (tel. 01-800/987-8224 toll-free inside Mexico; or dial 078); Mexico Hot Line (tel. 800/446-3942); U.S. Department of State Travel Advisory, staffed 24 hours (tel. 202/647-5225); U.S. Passport Agency (tel. 877/487-2777); and the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention International Traveler's Hot Line (tel. 877/394-8747).
Water -- Most hotels have decanters or bottles of purified water in the rooms, and the better hotels have either purified water from regular taps or special taps marked agua purificada. Some hotels charge for in-room bottled water. Virtually any hotel, restaurant, or bar will bring you purified water if you specifically request it but will usually charge you for it. Drugstores and grocery stores sell bottled purified water. Some popular brands are Santa María, Ciel, and Bonafont. Evian and other imported brands are also widely available.
It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM.
Currency
The currency in Mexico is the peso. Paper currency comes in denominations of 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 pesos. Coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, and 20 pesos, and 20 and 50 centavos (100 centavos = 1 peso). The current exchange rate for the U.S. dollar, and the one used in this book, is around 11 pesos; at that rate, an item that costs 11 pesos would be equivalent to US$1.
Getting change is a problem. Small-denomination bills and coins are hard to come by, so start collecting them early in your trip. Shopkeepers and taxi drivers everywhere always seem to be out of change and small bills; that's doubly true in markets.
Many establishments that deal with tourists, especially in coastal resort areas, quote prices in dollars. To avoid confusion, they use the abbreviations "Dlls." for dollars and "M.N." (moneda nacional, or national currency) for pesos.
Don't forget to have enough pesos to carry you over a weekend or Mexican holiday, when banks are closed. In general, avoid carrying the U.S. $100 bill, the bill most commonly counterfeited in Mexico and therefore the most difficult to exchange, especially in smaller towns. Because small bills and coins in pesos are hard to come by in Mexico, the $1 bill is very useful for tipping. A tip of U.S. coins, which cannot be exchanged into Mexican currency, is of no value to the service provider.
The bottom line on exchanging money: Ask first, and shop around. Banks generally pay the top rates.
Casas de cambio (exchange houses) are generally more convenient than banks because they have more locations and longer hours; the rate of exchange may be the same as at a bank or slightly lower. Before leaving a bank or exchange-house window, count your change in front of the teller before the next client steps up.
Large airports have currency-exchange counters that often stay open whenever flights are operating. Though convenient, they generally do not offer the most favorable rates.
A hotel's exchange desk commonly pays less favorable rates than banks; however, when the currency is in a state of flux, higher-priced hotels are known to pay higher rates than banks, in an effort to attract dollars. Note: In almost all cases, you receive a better rate by changing money first, then paying.
You'll avoid lines at airport ATMs (automated teller machines) by exchanging at least some money -- just enough to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel -- before you leave home (though don't expect the exchange rate to be ideal). You can exchange money at your local American Express or Thomas Cook office or at your bank. American Express also dispenses traveler's checks and foreign currency via www.americanexpress.com or tel. 800/673-3782, but they'll charge a $15 order fee and additional shipping and handling costs.
A Few Words about Prices -- The peso's value continues to fluctuate -- at press time, it was roughly 11 pesos to the dollar. Prices in this guide (which are always given in U.S. dollars) have been converted to U.S. dollars at 11 pesos to the dollar. Most hotels in Mexico -- with the exception of places that receive little foreign tourism -- quote prices in U.S. dollars. Thus, currency fluctuations are unlikely to affect the prices most hotels charge.
Mexico has a value-added tax of 15% (Impuesto de Valor Agregado, or IVA; pronounced "ee-bah") on most everything, including restaurant meals, bus tickets, and souvenirs. (Exceptions are Cancún, Cozumel, and Los Cabos, where the IVA is 10%; as ports of entry, they receive a break on taxes.) Hotels charge the usual 15% IVA, plus a locally administered bed tax of 2% (in most areas), for a total of 17%. In Cancún, Los Cabos, and Cozumel, hotels charge the 10% IVA plus 2% room tax. The prices quoted by hotels and restaurants do not necessarily include IVA. You may find that upper-end properties (three or more stars) quote prices without IVA included, while lower-priced hotels include IVA. Always ask to see a printed price sheet and always ask if the tax is included.
Banks & ATMs
Banks in Mexico are rapidly expanding and improving services. They tend to be open weekdays from 9am until 5pm, and often for at least a half day on Saturday. In larger resorts and cities, they can generally accommodate the exchange of dollars (which used to stop at noon) anytime during business hours. Some, but not all, banks charge a service fee of about 1% to exchange traveler's checks. However, you can pay for most purchases directly with traveler's checks at the establishment's stated exchange rate. Don't even bother with personal checks drawn on a U.S. bank -- the bank will wait for your check to clear, which can take weeks, before giving you your money.
Travelers to Mexico can easily withdraw money from ATMs in most major cities and resort areas. The U.S. Department of State has an advisory against using ATMs in Mexico for safety reasons, stating that they should only be used during business hours, but this pertains primarily to Mexico City, where crime remains a significant problem. In most resorts in Mexico, the use of ATMs is perfectly safe -- just use the same precautions you would at any ATM. Universal bank cards (such as the Cirrus and PLUS systems) can be used. This is a convenient way to withdraw money and avoid carrying too much with you at any time. The exchange rate is generally more favorable than that at casas de cambio. Most machines offer Spanish/English menus and dispense pesos, but some offer the option of withdrawing dollars.
The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe. Go to your bank card's website to find ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.
Credit Cards
Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit-card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).
In Mexico, Visa, MasterCard, and American Express are the most accepted cards. You'll be able to charge most hotel, restaurant, and store purchases, as well as almost all airline tickets, on your credit card. Pemex gas stations have begun to accept credit card purchases for gasoline, though this option may not be available everywhere -- check before you pump. You can get cash advances of several hundred dollars on your card, but there may be a wait of 20 minutes to 2 hours. Charges will be made in pesos, then converted into dollars by the bank issuing the credit card. Generally you receive the favorable bank rate when paying by credit card. However, be aware that some establishments in Mexico add a 5% to 7% surcharge when you pay with a credit card. This is especially true when using American Express. Many times, advertised discounts will not apply if you pay with a credit card.
Traveler's Checks
You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.
The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or tel. 800/221-7282 for card holders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts AmEx gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee) and Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378. Call tel. 800/223-9920 for information on MasterCard traveler's checks.
Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.
American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, useful if you're traveling to one country or to the Euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.
Another option is the new prepaid traveler's check cards, reloadable cards that work much like debit cards but aren't linked to your checking account. The American Express Travelers Cheque Card, for example, requires a minimum deposit, sets a maximum balance, and has a one-time issuance fee of $14.95. You can withdraw money from an ATM (for a fee of $2.50 per transaction, not including bank fees), and the funds can be purchased in dollars, euros, or pounds. If you lose the card, your available funds will be refunded within 24 hours.
Seasons -- Mexico has two principal travel seasons. High season begins around December 20 and continues to Easter; in some places it begins as early as mid-November. Low season is from the day after Easter to mid-December; during low season, prices may drop 20% to 50%. In beach destinations popular with Mexican travelers, such as Veracruz and Acapulco, prices will revert to high season during July and August, the traditional national summer vacation period. Prices in inland cities seldom fluctuate from high to low season, but may rise dramatically during the weeks of Easter and Christmas. Taxco and Pátzcuaro raise prices during their popular Easter-week celebrations. In Isla Mujeres and Playa del Carmen, on the Yucatán Peninsula, high season starts earlier than in the rest of the country and includes the month of August, when many European visitors and Mexican families arrive.
Mexico has two main climate seasons: rainy (May to mid-Oct) and dry (mid-Oct to Apr). The rainy season can be of little consequence in the dry, northern regions of the country. Southern regions typically receive tropical showers, which begin around 4 or 5pm and last a few hours. Though these rains can come on suddenly and be quite strong, they usually end just as quickly and cool off the air for the evening. Hurricane season particularly affects the Yucatán Peninsula and the southern Pacific coast, especially June through October. However, if no hurricanes strike, the light, cooling winds, especially September through November, can make it a perfect time to tackle the pre-Hispanic ruins that dot the interior of the peninsula.
Norte (northern) season runs from late November to mid-January, when the jet stream dips far south and creates northerly winds and showers in many resort areas. These showers usually only last for a couple of days.
June, July, and August are unrelentingly hot on the Yucatán Peninsula and in most coastal areas, though temperatures rise only into the mid-80s to 90°F (mid-20s to 32°C). Most of coastal Mexico experiences temperatures in the 80s°F (20s°C) in the hottest months. The northern states that border the United States experience very high summer temperatures.
Elevation is another important factor. High-elevation cities such as Mexico City and San Cristóbal de las Casas can be surprisingly cold. Temperatures can drop close to freezing at night in winter even in San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato, which are at lower elevations.
Passports -- All travelers to Mexico are required to present photo identification and proof of citizenship, such as a valid passport, naturalization papers, or an original birth certificate with a raised seal, along with a driver's license or official ID, such as a state or military issued ID. Driver's licenses and permits, voter registration cards, affidavits and similar documents are not sufficient to prove citizenship for readmission into the United States. If the last name on the birth certificate is different from your current name, bring a photo identification card and legal proof of the name change, such as the original marriage license or certificate. Note: Photocopies are not acceptable.
Effective January 23, 2007, all U.S. citizens traveling by air to Mexico are required to have a valid passport to enter or reenter the United States. As early as January 1, 2008, U.S. citizens traveling between the United States and Mexico by land or sea may also be required to present a valid U.S. passport or other documents as determined by the Department of Homeland Security.
Safeguard your passport in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place like a money belt, and keep a copy of the critical pages with your passport number in a separate place. If you lose your passport, visit the nearest consulate of your native country as soon as possible for a replacement.
For information on how to get a passport, go to "Passports" in the "Fast Facts" section of this guide -- the websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing passport applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. Department of State at http://travel.state.gov.
Visas -- You must carry a Mexican Tourist Permit (FMT), the equivalent of a tourist visa, which Mexican border officials issue, free of charge, after proof of citizenship is accepted. Airlines generally provide the necessary forms aboard your flight to Mexico. The FMT is more important than a passport, so guard it carefully. If you lose it, you may not be permitted to leave until you can replace it -- a bureaucratic hassle that can take anywhere from a few hours to a week.
The FMT can be issued for up to 180 days. Sometimes officials don't ask but just stamp a time limit, so be sure to say "6 months," or at least twice as long as you intend to stay. If you decide to extend your stay, you may request that additional time be added to your FMT from an official immigration office in Mexico.
In Baja California, immigration laws have changed; they allow FMTs for a maximum of 180 days per year, with a maximum of 30 days per visit. This is to encourage regular visitors, or those who spend longer periods in Mexico, to obtain documents that denote partial residency.
For travelers entering Mexico by car at the border of Baja California, note that FMTs are issued only in Tijuana, Tecate, and Mexicali, as well as in Ensenada and Guerrero Negro. If you travel anywhere beyond the frontier zone without the FMT, you will be fined $40. Permits for driving a foreign-plated car in Mexico are available only in Tijuana, Ensenada, Tecate, Mexicali, and La Paz.
U.S. citizens do not require a visa or a tourist card for tourist stays of 72 hours or less within "the border zone," defined as an area from 20 to 30km (12-19 miles) of the border with the U.S., depending on the location.
Note: Children younger than age 18 that are traveling without parents or with only one parent must have a notarized letter from the absent parent(s) authorizing the travel. Mexican law requires that any non-Mexican younger than age 18 departing Mexico must carry notarized written permission from any parent or guardian not traveling with the child. This permission must include the name of the parent, the name of the child, the name of anyone traveling with the child, and the notarized signature(s) of the absent parent(s). The child must carry the original letter (not a copy) as well as proof of the parent/child relationship (usually a birth certificate or court document) and an original custody decree, if applicable.
Authentic Mexican food differs dramatically from what is frequently served in the United States under that name. For many travelers, Mexico will be new and exciting culinary territory. Even grizzled veterans will be pleasantly surprised by the wide variation in specialties and traditions offered from region to region.
Despite regional differences, some generalizations can be made. Mexican food usually isn't chile-hot when it arrives at the table (though many dishes must have a certain amount of piquancy, and some home cooking can be very spicy, depending on a family's or chef's tastes). Chiles and sauces add piquant flavor after the food is served; you'll never see a table in Mexico without one or both of these condiments. Mexicans don't drown their cooking in cheese and sour cream, a la Tex-Mex, and they use a great variety of ingredients. But the basis of Mexican food is simple -- tortillas, beans, chiles, squash, and tomatoes -- the same as it was centuries ago, before the Europeans arrived.
The Basics
Tortillas -- Traditional tortillas are made from corn that's boiled in water and lime, and then ground into masa (a grainy dough), patted and pressed into thin cakes, and cooked on a hot griddle known as a comal. In many households, the tortilla takes the place of fork and spoon; Mexicans merely tear them into wedge-shaped pieces, which they use to scoop up their food. Restaurants often serve bread rather than tortillas because it's easier, but you can always ask for tortillas. A more recent invention from northern Mexico is the flour tortilla, which is seen less frequently in the rest of Mexico.
Enchiladas -- The tortilla is the basis of several Mexican dishes, but the most famous of these is the enchilada. The original name for this dish would have been tortilla enchilada, which simply means a tortilla dipped in a chile sauce. In like manner, there's the entomatada (tortilla dipped in a tomato sauce) and the enfrijolada (a bean sauce). The enchilada began as a very simple dish: A tortilla is dipped in chile sauce (usually with ancho chile) and then into very hot oil, and then is quickly folded or rolled on a plate and sprinkled with chopped onions and a little queso cotija (crumbly white cheese) and served with a few fried potatoes and carrots. You can get this basic enchilada in food stands across the country. I love them, and if you come across them in your travels, give them a try. In restaurants you get the more elaborate enchilada, with different fillings of cheese, chicken, pork, or even seafood, and sometimes in a casserole.
Tacos -- A taco is anything folded or rolled into a tortilla, and sometimes a double tortilla. The tortilla can be served either soft or fried. Flautas and quesadillas are species of tacos. For Mexicans, the taco is the quintessential fast food, and the taquería (taco stand) -- a ubiquitous sight -- is a great place to get a filling meal.
Frijoles -- An invisible "bean line" divides Mexico: It starts at the Gulf Coast in the southern part of the state of Tamaulipas and moves inland through the eastern quarter of San Luis Potosí and most of the state of Hidalgo, then goes straight through Mexico City and Morelos and into Guerrero, where it curves slightly westward to the Pacific. To the north and west of this line, the pink bean known as the flor de mayo is the staple food; to the south and east, including all of the Yucatán, the standard is the black bean.
In private households, beans are served at least once a day and, among the working class and peasantry, with every meal, if the family can afford it. Mexicans almost always prepare beans with a minimum of condiments -- usually just a little onion and garlic and perhaps a pinch of herbs. Beans are meant to be a contrast to the heavily spiced dishes. Sometimes they are served at the end of a meal with a little Mexican-style sour cream.
Mexicans often fry leftover beans and serve them on the side as frijoles refritos. "Refritos" is usually translated as refried, but this is a misnomer -- the beans are fried only once. The prefix "re" actually means "well" (as in thoroughly).
Tamales -- You make a tamal by mixing corn masa with a little lard, adding one of several fillings -- meats flavored with chiles (or no filling at all) -- then wrapping it in a corn husk or in the leaf of a banana or other plant, and finally steaming it. Every region in Mexico has its own traditional way of making tamales. In some places, a single tamal can be big enough to feed a family, while in others they are barely 3 inches long and an inch thick.
Chiles -- Many kinds of chile peppers exist, and Mexicans call each of them by one name when they're fresh and another when they're dried. Some are blazing hot with only a mild flavor; some are mild but have a rich, complex flavor. They can be pickled, smoked, stuffed, stewed, chopped, and used in an endless variety of dishes.
Mealtime
Morning -- The morning meal, known as el desayuno, can be something light, such as coffee and sweet bread, or something more substantial: eggs, beans, tortillas, bread, fruit, and juice. It can be eaten early or late and is always a sure bet in Mexico. The variety and sweetness of the fruits is remarkable, and you can't go wrong with Mexican egg dishes.
Midafternoon -- The main meal of the day, known as la comida (or el almuerzo), is eaten between 2 and 4pm. Stores and businesses often close, and many people go home to eat and perhaps take a short afternoon siesta before going about their business. The first course is the sopa, which can be either caldo (soup) or sopa de arroz (rice) or both; then comes the main course, which ideally is a meat or fish dish prepared in some kind of sauce and served with beans, followed by dessert.
Evening -- Between 8 and 10pm, most Mexicans have a light meal called la cena. If eaten at home, it is something like a sandwich, bread and jam, or perhaps a couple of tacos made from some of the day's leftovers. At restaurants, the most common thing to eat is antojitos (literally, "little cravings"), a general label for light fare. Antojitos include tostadas, tamales, tacos, and simple enchiladas, and are big hits with travelers. Large restaurants offer complete meals as well.
Eating Out: Restaurants, Taquerias & Tipping
Avoid eating at those inviting sidewalk restaurants that you see beneath the stone archways that border the main plazas. These places usually cater to tourists and don't need to count on getting any return business. But they are great for getting a coffee or beer.
Most nonresort towns have one or two restaurants (sometimes one is a coffee shop) that are social centers for a large group of established patrons. These establishments over time become virtual institutions, and change comes very slowly. The food is usually good standard fare, cooked as it was 20 years ago; the decor is simple. The patrons have known each other and the staff for years, and the charla (banter), gestures, and greetings are friendly, open, and unaffected. If you're curious about Mexican culture, eating and observing the goings-on is fun.
During your trip, you're going to see many taquerías (taco joints). These are generally small places with a counter or a few tables set around the cooking area; you get to see exactly how the cooks make their tacos before deciding whether to order. Most tacos come with a little chopped onion and cilantro, but not tomato and lettuce. Find one that seems popular with the locals and where the cook performs with brio (a good sign of pride in the product). Sometimes there will be a woman making the tortillas right there (or working the masa into gorditas, sopes, or panuchos if these are also served). You will never see men doing this -- this is perhaps the strictest gender division in Mexican society. Men may do all other cooking and kitchen tasks, and work with prepared tortillas, but they will never be found working masa.
For the main meal of the day many restaurants offer a multicourse blue-plate special called comida corrida or menú del día. This is the least expensive way to get a full dinner. In Mexico, you need to ask for your check; it is generally considered inhospitable to present a check to someone who hasn't requested it. If you're in a hurry to get somewhere, ask for the check when your food arrives.
Tips are about the same as in the United States. You'll sometimes find a 15% value-added tax on restaurant meals, which shows up on the bill as "IVA." This is a boon to arithmetically challenged tippers, saving them from undue exertion.
To summon the waiter, wave or raise your hand, but don't motion with your index finger, which is a demeaning gesture that may even cause the waiter to ignore you. Or if it's the check you want, you can motion to the waiter from across the room using the universal pretend-you're-writing gesture.
Most restaurants do not have nonsmoking sections; when they do, we mention it in the reviews. But Mexico's wonderful climate allows for many open-air restaurants, usually set inside a courtyard of a colonial house, or in rooms with tall ceilings and plenty of open windows.
Drinks
All over Mexico you'll find shops selling jugos (juices) and licuados (smoothies) made from several kinds of tropical fruit. They're excellent and refreshing; while traveling, I take full advantage of them. You'll also come across aguas frescas -- water flavored with hibiscus, melon, tamarind, or lime. Soft drinks come in more flavors than in any other country I know. Pepsi and Coca-Cola taste the way they did in the United States years ago, before the makers started adding corn syrup. The coffee is generally good, and hot chocolate is a traditional drink, as is atole -- a hot, corn-based beverage that can be sweet or bitter.
Of course, Mexico has a proud and lucrative beer-brewing tradition. A lesser-known brewed beverage is pulque, a pre-Hispanic drink: the fermented juice of a few species of maguey or agave. Mostly you find it for sale in pulquerías in central Mexico. It is an acquired taste, and not every gringo acquires it. Mezcal and tequila also come from the agave. Tequila is a variety of mezcal produced from the A. tequilana species of agave in and around the area of Tequila, in the state of Jalisco. Mezcal comes from various parts of Mexico and from different varieties of agave. The distilling process is usually much less sophisticated than that of tequila, and, with its stronger smell and taste, mezcal is much more easily detected on the drinker's breath. In some places such as Oaxaca, it comes with a worm in the bottle; you are supposed to eat the worm after polishing off the mezcal. But for those teetotalers out there who are interested in just the worm, I have good news -- you can find these worms for sale in Mexican markets when in season. ¡Salud!