There's no place on earth quite like this handful of sun-drenched, mid-Pacific islands. The Hawaii of South Seas literature and Hollywood films really does exist. Here you'll find palm-fringed blue lagoons, lush rainforests, hidden gardens, cascading waterfalls, wild rivers running through rugged canyons, and soaring volcanoes. And oh, those beaches -- gold, red, black, and even green sands caressed by an endless surf. The possibilities for adventure -- and relaxation -- are endless. Each of the six main islands is separate, distinct, and infinitely complex. There's far too much to see and do on any 2-week vacation, which is why so many people return to the Aloha State year after year.
Unfortunately, even paradise has its share of stifling crowds and tourist schlock. If you're not careful, your trip to Hawaii could turn into a nightmare of tourist traps selling shells from the Philippines, hokey faux culture like cellophane-skirted hula dancers, overpriced exotic drinks, and a 4-hour timeshare lecture before you get on that "free" snorkeling trip. That's where this guide comes in. As a Hawaii resident, I can tell the extraordinary from the merely ordinary. This book will steer you away from the crowded, the overrated, and the overpriced -- and toward the best Hawaii has to offer. No matter what your budget, this guide will help ensure that every dollar is well spent.
The Best Dining, Hawaii Style
The mango is always a much-anticipated feature of late spring and summer. Hayden mangoes are universally loved for their plump, juicy flesh and brilliant skins. White Piries, with their resinous flavor and fine, fiberless flesh, are even better; this rare and ambrosial variety can be found in Honolulu's Chinatown or at roadside fruit stands in rural Oahu. Watch for the Rapoza, a new large, sweet, fiberless mango introduced to Hawaii several years ago.
Kahuku papayas -- firm, fleshy, dark orange, and so juicy they sometimes squirt -- are the ones to watch for on menus and in markets; check out the roadside stands in Kahuku on Oahu, and at supermarkets. Sunrise papayas from Kapoho and Kauai are also top-notch.
White, acid-free, extra-sweet, and grown on Kauai and the Big Island, Sugarloaf pineapples are the new rage. Hilo is the town for litchis (also known as lychees) in summer, but Honolulu's Chinatown markets carry them, too. Ka'u oranges, grown in the volcanic soil of the southern Big Island, are available in supermarkets and health-food stores. Don't be fooled by their brown, ugly skin -- they're juicy, thin-skinned, and sweet as honey.
The buttery, chocolate-dipped shortbread cookies of Big Island Candies (Big Island; tel. 808/935-8890) are worth every calorie and every dollar. From Kauai, Hanapepe town's venerable Taro Ko taro chips (tel. 808/335-5586 for the factory) are a crunchy snack neighbor islanders drive long miles to find.
The Best Restaurants
Although tourist areas are generally safe, visitors should always stay alert, even in laid-back Hawaii (and especially in Waikiki). It's wise to ask the island tourist office if you're in doubt about which neighborhoods are safe. Avoid deserted areas, especially at night. Don't go into any city park at night unless there's an event that attracts crowds -- for example, the Waikiki Shell concerts in Kapiolani Park. Generally speaking, you can feel safe in areas where there are many people and open establishments.
Avoid carrying valuables with you on the street, and don't display expensive cameras or electronic equipment. Hold on to your pocketbook, and place your billfold in an inside pocket. In theaters, restaurants, and other public places, keep your possessions in sight.
There has been a series of purse-snatching incidents in Oahu. Thieves in slow-moving cars or on foot have snatched handbags from female pedestrians. The Honolulu police department advises women to carry their purses on the shoulder away from the street or, better yet, to wear the strap across the chest instead of on one shoulder. Women with clutch bags should hold them close to their chest.
Remember also that hotels are open to the public and that in a large hotel, security may not be able to screen everyone entering. Always lock your room door -- don't assume that once inside your hotel, you're automatically safe.
Driving Safety
Recently, burglaries of tourist rental cars in hotel parking structures and at beach parking lots have become more common. Park in well-lighted and well-traveled areas, if possible. Never leave any packages or valuables visible in the car. If someone attempts to rob you or steal your car, do not try to resist the thief or carjacker -- report the incident to the police department immediately. Ask your rental agency about personal safety, and get written directions or a map with the route to your destination clearly marked.
Hawaii is a great place for a wedding. The islands exude romance and natural beauty, and after the ceremony, you're already on your honeymoon. And the members of your wedding party will most likely be delighted, since you've given them the perfect excuse for their own island vacation.
More than 20,000 marriages are performed annually on the islands, mostly on Oahu; nearly half are for couples from somewhere else. Contact Travel Agents Incorporated for help in planning this very special event.
Hawaii is very informal. Shorts, T-shirts, and tennis shoes will get you by at most restaurants and attractions; a casual dress or a polo shirt and khakis are fine even in the most expensive places. Dinner jackets for men are required only in some of the fine-dining rooms of a very few ultraexclusive resorts, such as the Halekulani on Oahu, the Big Island's Mauna Kea Beach Hotel, and the Lodge at Koele on Lanai -- and they'll cordially provide you with a jacket if you don't bring your own. Aloha wear is acceptable everywhere, so you may want to plan on buying an aloha shirt or a muumuu (a Hawaiian-style dress) while you're in the islands.
So bring T-shirts, shorts, long pants, a couple of bathing suits, a long-sleeve cover-up (to throw on at the beach when you've had enough sun for the day), tennis shoes, rubber water shoes or flip-flops, and hiking boots and good socks, if you plan on hiking.
The tropical sun poses the greatest threat to anyone who ventures into the great outdoors, so be sure to bring sun protection: a good pair of sunglasses, strong sunscreen, a light hat, and a canteen or water bottle if you'll be hiking -- you'll easily dehydrate in the tropical heat, so figure on carrying 2 liters of water per day on any hike. Campers should bring water-purification tablets or devices.
One last thing: It really can get cold in Hawaii. If you plan to see the sunrise from the top of Maui's Haleakala Crater, venture into the Big Island's Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, or spend time in Kokee State Park on Kauai, bring a warm jacket; 40�F (4�C) upcountry temperatures, even in summer when it's 80�F (27�C) at the beach, are not uncommon. It's always a good idea to bring at least a windbreaker, a sweater, or a light jacket. And be sure to toss some rain gear into your suitcase if you'll be in Hawaii between November and March.
Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, Travel Health Online, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).
Insects
Like any tropical climate, Hawaii is home to lots of bugs. Most of them won't harm you. However, watch out for mosquitoes, centipedes, and scorpions, which do sting and may cause anything from mild annoyance to severe swelling and pain.
Mosquitoes -- These pesky insects are not native to Hawaii but arrived as larvae stowed away in water barrels on the ship Wellington in 1826, when it anchored in Lahaina. There's not a whole lot you can do about them, except to apply commercial repellent, which you can pick up at any drugstore.
Centipedes -- These segmented bugs with a jillion legs come in two varieties: 6- to 8-inch-long brown ones and 2- to 3-inch-long blue guys. Both can really pack a wallop with their sting. Centipedes are generally found in damp, wet places, such as under wood piles or compost heaps; wearing closed-toe shoes can help prevent stings. If you're stung, apply ice at once to prevent swelling. See a doctor if you experience extreme pain, swelling, nausea, or any other severe reaction.
Scorpions -- Rarely seen, scorpions are found in arid, warm regions; their stings can be serious. Campers in dry areas should always check their boots before putting them on and shake out sleeping bags and bed rolls. Symptoms of a scorpion sting include shortness of breath, hives, swelling, and nausea. In the unlikely event that you're stung, apply diluted household ammonia and cold compresses to the area of the sting and seek medical help immediately.
Hiking Safety
In addition to taking the appropriate precautions regarding Hawaii's bug population, hikers should always let someone know where they're heading, when they're going, and when they plan to return; too many hikers get lost in Hawaii because they don't let others know their basic plans.
Always check weather conditions with the National Weather Service (tel. 808/973-4381 on Oahu; see individual island chapters for local weather information) before you go. Hike with a pal, never alone. Wear hiking boots, a sun hat, clothes to protect you from the sun and from getting scratches, and high-SPF sunscreen on all exposed areas of skin. Take water. Stay on the trail. Watch your step. It's easy to slip off precipitous trails and into steep canyons. Many experienced hikers and boaters today pack a cellphone in case of emergency; just dial tel. 911.
Vog
The volcanic haze dubbed vog is caused by gases released when molten lava -- from the continuous eruption of Kilauea volcano on the Big Island -- pours into the ocean. Some people claim that long-term exposure to the hazy, smoglike air has caused bronchial ailments, but it's highly unlikely to cause you any harm in the course of your visit.
There actually is a vog season in Hawaii: the fall and winter months, when the trade winds that blow the fumes out to sea die down. The vog is felt not only on the Big Island, but also as far away as Maui and Oahu.
One more word of caution: If you're pregnant or have heart or breathing problems, you should avoid exposure to the sulfuric fumes that are ever present in and around the Big Island's Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
Don't Get Burned: Smart Tanning Tips
Hawaii's Caucasian population has the highest incidence of malignant melanoma (deadly skin cancer) in the world. And nobody is completely safe from the sun's harmful rays: All skin types and races can burn. To ensure that your vacation won't be ruined by a painful sunburn, be sure to wear a strong sunscreen that protects against both UVA and UVB rays at all times (look for Zinc oxide, benzophenone, oxybenzone, sulisobenzone, titanium dioxide, or avobenzone in the ingredients list). Wear a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses. Keep infants under 6 months out of the sun completely and slather older babies and children with strong sunscreen frequently.
If you do get a burn, aloe vera, cool compresses, cold baths, and benzocaine can help with the pain. Stay out of the sun until the burn is completely gone.
Ocean Safety
Because most people coming to Hawaii are unfamiliar with the ocean environment, they're often unaware of the natural hazards it holds. With just a few precautions, your ocean experience can be a safe and happy one. An excellent book is All Stings Considered: First Aid and Medical Treatment of Hawaii's Marine Injuries (University of Hawaii Press, 1997), by Craig Thomas and Susan Scott.
Note that sharks are not a big problem in Hawaii; in fact, they appear so infrequently that locals look forward to seeing them. Since records have been kept, starting in 1779, there have been only about 100 shark attacks in Hawaii, of which 40% have been fatal. Most attacks occurred after someone fell into the ocean from the shore or from a boat; in these cases, the sharks probably attacked after the person was dead. But general rules for avoiding sharks are: Don't swim at sunrise, at sunset, or where the water is murky due to stream runoff -- sharks may mistake you for one of their usual meals. And don't swim where there are bloody fish in the water, as sharks become aggressive around blood.
Seasickness -- The waters in Hawaii can range from as calm as glass (off the Kona Coast on the Big Island) to downright frightening (in storm conditions), and they usually fall somewhere in between. In general, expect rougher conditions in winter than in summer. Some 90% of the population tends toward seasickness. If you've never been out on a boat, or if you've been seasick in the past, you might want to heed the following suggestions:
Stings -- The most common stings in Hawaii come from jellyfish, particularly Portuguese man-of-war and box jellyfish. Since the poisons they inject are very different, you need to treat each sting differently.
A bluish-purple floating bubble with a long tail, the Portuguese man-of-war causes some 6,500 stings a year on Oahu alone. These stings, although painful and a nuisance, are rarely harmful; fewer than 1 in 1,000 requires medical treatment. The best prevention is to watch for these floating bubbles as you snorkel (look for the hanging tentacles below the surface). Get out of the water if anyone near you spots these jellyfish.
Reactions to stings range from mild burning and reddening to severe welts and blisters. All Stings Considered recommends the following treatment: First, pick off any visible tentacles with a gloved hand, a stick, or anything handy; then rinse the sting with salt- or fresh water, and apply ice to prevent swelling and to help control pain. Avoid folk remedies like vinegar, baking soda, or urinating on the wound, which may actually cause further damage. Most Portuguese man-of-war stings will disappear by themselves within 15 to 20 minutes if you do nothing at all to treat them. Still, be sure to see a doctor if pain persists or a rash or other symptoms develop.
Transparent, square-shaped box jellyfish are nearly impossible to see in the water. Fortunately, they seem to follow a monthly cycle: 8 to 10 days after the full moon, they appear in the waters on the leeward side of each island and hang around for about 3 days. Also, they seem to sting more in the morning hours, when they're on or near the surface.
The stings can cause anything from no visible marks to red, hivelike welts; blisters; and pain lasting from 10 minutes to 8 hours. All Stings Considered recommends the following treatment: First, pour regular household vinegar on the sting; this will stop additional burning. Do not rub the area. Pick off any vinegar-soaked tentacles with a stick. For pain, apply an ice pack. Seek additional medical treatment if you experience shortness of breath, weakness, palpitations, muscle cramps, or any other severe symptoms. Most box jellyfish stings disappear by themselves without any treatment.
Punctures -- Most sea-related punctures come from stepping on or brushing against the needlelike spines of sea urchins (known locally as wana). Be careful when you're in the water; don't put your foot down (even if you have booties or fins on) if you can't clearly see the bottom. Waves can push you into wana in a surge zone in shallow water. The spines can even puncture a wet suit.
A sea-urchin puncture can result in burning, aching, swelling, and discoloration (black or purple) around the area where the spines entered your skin. The best thing to do is to pull any protruding spines out. The body will absorb the spines within 24 hours to 3 weeks, or the remainder of the spines will work themselves out. Again, contrary to popular wisdom, do not urinate or pour vinegar on the embedded spines -- this will not help.
Cuts -- All cuts obtained in the marine environment must be taken seriously because the high level of bacteria present in the water can quickly cause the cut to become infected. The best way to prevent cuts is to wear a wet suit, gloves, and reef shoes. Never touch coral; not only can you get cut, but you can also damage a living organism that took decades to grow.
The symptoms of a coral cut can range from a slight scratch to severe welts and blisters. All Stings Considered recommends gently pulling the edges of the skin open and removing any embedded coral or grains of sand with tweezers. Next, scrub the cut well with fresh water. If pressing a clean cloth against the wound doesn't stop the bleeding, or the edges of the injury are jagged or gaping, seek medical treatment.
Everything You've Always Wanted to Know about Sharks -- The Hawaii State Department of Land and Natural Resources has launched a website, www.hawaiisharks.com, that covers the biology, history, and culture of these carnivores. It also provides information on safety and data on shark bites in Hawaii.
Enjoying the Ocean & Avoiding Mishaps -- The Pacific Whale Foundation has a free brochure called "Enjoying Maui's Unique Ocean Environment" that introduces visitors to Hawaii's ocean, beaches, tide pools, and reefs. Although written for Maui (with maps showing Maui's beaches) it's a great resource on how to stay safe around the ocean, with hints on how to assess weather before you jump into the water and the best ways to view the marine wildlife. To get the brochure, contact the Pacific Whale Foundation at tel. 808/244-8390, or visit www.pacificwhale.org.
What To Do If You Get Sick Away From Home
If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise, they won't make it through airport security. Visitors from outside the U.S. should carry generic names of prescription drugs. For U.S. travelers, most reliable health-care plans provide coverage if you get sick away from home. Foreign visitors may have to pay all medical costs up front and be reimbursed later.
American Express -- For 24-hour traveler's-check refunds and purchase information, call tel. 800/221-7282.
Area Code -- All the Hawaiian Islands are in the 808 area code. Note that if you're calling one island from another, you'll have to dial 1-808 first.
Automobile Organizations -- Auto clubs will supply maps, suggested routes, guidebooks, accident and bail-bond insurance, and emergency road service. The American Automobile Association (AAA) is the major auto club in the United States. If you belong to an auto club in your home country, inquire about AAA reciprocity before you leave. You may be able to join AAA even if you're not a member of a reciprocal club; to inquire, call AAA (tel. 800/222-4357). AAA is actually an organization of regional auto clubs, so look under "AAA Automobile Club" in the White Pages of the telephone directory. AAA has a nationwide emergency road service telephone number (tel. 800/AAA-HELP).
Business Hours -- Most offices are open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm. Bank hours are Monday through Thursday from 8:30am to 3pm and Friday from 8:30am to 6pm; some banks are open on Saturday as well. Shopping centers are open Monday through Friday from 10am to 9pm, Saturday 10am to 5:30pm, and Sunday from noon to 5 or 6pm.
Currency -- The most common bills are the $1 (a "buck"), $5, $10, and $20 denominations. There are also $2 bills (seldom encountered), $50 bills, and $100 bills (the last two are usually not welcome as payment for small purchases).
Coins come in seven denominations: 1� (1 cent, or a penny); 5� (5 cents, or a nickel); 10� (10 cents, or a dime); 25� (25 cents, or a quarter); 50� (50 cents, or a half-dollar); the gold-colored Sacagawea coin, worth $1; and the rare silver dollar.
Customs --
What You Can Bring into Hawaii -- Every visitor more than 21 years of age may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 liter of wine or hard liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months. It is altogether forbidden to bring into the country foodstuffs (particularly fruit, cooked meats, and canned goods) and plants (vegetables, seeds, tropical plants, and the like). Foreign tourists may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (tel. 202/927-1770; www.customs.ustreas.gov).
What You Can Take Home from Hawaii:
Canadian Citizens: For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).
U.K. Citizens: For information, contact HM Customs & Excise at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152), or consult their website at www.hmce.gov.uk.
Australian Citizens: A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.
New Zealand Citizens: Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).
Drinking Laws -- The legal drinking age in Hawaii is 21. Bars are allowed to stay open daily until 2am; places with cabaret licenses are able to keep the booze flowing until 4am. Grocery and convenience stores are allowed to sell beer, wine, and liquor 7 days a week. Proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out.
Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption. The police can fine you on the spot. And nothing will ruin your trip faster than getting a citation for DUI ("driving under the influence"), so don't even think about driving while intoxicated.
Electricity -- Like Canada, the United States uses 110 to 120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220 to 240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand. Downward converters that change 220-240 volts to 110-120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you.
Embassies & Consulates -- All embassies are located in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are located in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City. If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (tel. 202/555-1212), or log on to www.embassy.org/embassies.
The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20036 (tel. 202/797-3000; www.austemb.org). There are consulates in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco.
The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20001 (tel. 202/682-1740; www.canadianembassy.org). Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, and Seattle.
The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/462-3939; www.irelandemb.org). Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York, San Francisco, and other cities. See the website for complete listing.
The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/328-4800; www.nzemb.org). New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle.
The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008 (tel. 202/588-7800; www.britainusa.com). Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York, San Francisco, and Seattle.
Emergencies -- Dial tel. 911 for police, fire, or ambulance.
Gasoline (Petrol) -- At press time, in the U.S., the cost of gasoline (also known as gas, but never petrol), is abnormally high. Taxes are already included in the printed price. One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. Fill-up locations are known as gas or service stations.
Holidays -- Banks, government offices, post offices, and many stores, restaurants, and museums are closed on the following legal national holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day), the third Monday in January (Martin Luther King, Jr., Day), the third Monday in February (Presidents' Day), the last Monday in May (Memorial Day), July 4 (Independence Day), the first Monday in September (Labor Day), the second Monday in October (Columbus Day), November 11 (Veterans Day/Armistice Day), the fourth Thursday in November (Thanksgiving Day), and December 25 (Christmas). The Tuesday after the first Monday in November is Election Day, a federal government holiday in presidential-election years (held every 4 years, and next in 2008).
Legal Aid -- If you are "pulled over" for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime. Pay fines by mail or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court. If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer. Here the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested. Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice. International visitors should call their embassy or consulate.
Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen, and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/847-2911 or 410/581-9994. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309 or 636/722-7111. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212.
If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).
Mail -- At press time, domestic postage rates were 26� for a postcard and 41� for a letter. For international mail, a postcard or first-class letter of up to 1 ounce costs 90� (69� to Canada and Mexico). For more information, go to www.usps.com and click on "Calculate Postage."
If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. (Call tel. 800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.) The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, etc.). Most post offices will hold your mail for up to 1 month and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.
Always include zip codes when mailing items in the U.S. If you don't know your zip code, visit www.usps.com/zip4.
Passports --
For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.
For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca). Note: Canadian children who travel must have their own passport. However, if you hold a valid Canadian passport issued before December 11, 2001, that bears the name of your child, the passport remains valid for you and your child until it expires.
For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525), or at most main post offices.
For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.
For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.
Police -- Dial tel. 911 for police.
Smoking -- It's against the law to smoke in public buildings, including airports, shopping malls, grocery stores, retail shops, buses, movie theaters, banks, convention facilities, and all government buildings and facilities. There is no smoking in restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. Most bed-and-breakfasts prohibit smoking indoors, and more and more hotels and resorts are becoming nonsmoking even in public area. Also, there is no smoking within 20 feet of a doorway, window, or ventilation intake (no hanging around outside a bar to smoke -- you must go 20 feet away).
Taxes -- The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level. Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets. These taxes will not appear on price tags.
Telegraph, Telex & Fax -- Telegraph and telex services are provided primarily by Western Union. You can telegraph money, or have it telegraphed to you, very quickly over the Western Union system, but this service can cost as much as 15% to 20% of the amount sent.
Most hotels have fax machines available for guest use (be sure to ask about the charge to use it). Many hotel rooms are even wired for guests' fax machines. A less expensive way to send and receive faxes may be at stores such as The UPS Store (formerly Mail Boxes Etc.),
Time -- The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST). Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones. For example, when it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST),10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney.
Daylight saving time is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico. Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time.
Tipping -- Tips are a very important part of certain workers' income, and gratuities are the standard way of showing appreciation for services provided. (Tipping is certainly not compulsory if the service is poor!) In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a disaster area for him or her to clean up). Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets). Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car.
In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff 15% to 20% of the check, tip bartenders 10% to 15%, tip checkroom attendants $1 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $1 per vehicle.
As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2-$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%.
Toilets -- You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most U.S. cities, but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations. Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities. If possible, avoid the toilets at parks and beaches, which tend to be dirty; some may be unsafe. Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons.
Useful Phone Numbers
U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory: tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.)
U.S. Passport Agency: tel. 202/647-0518
U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline: tel. 404/332-4559
Visas -- For information about U.S. visas, go to http://travel.state.gov and click on "Visas." Or go to one of the following websites:
Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (tel. 02/6214-5600), or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at http://usembassy-australia.state.gov/consular.
British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (tel. 0891/200-290) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at www.usembassy.org.uk.
Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the Embassy of the USA Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd., Dublin 4, Ireland (tel. 353/1-668-8777) or by checking the "Consular Services" section of the website at http://dublin.usembassy.gov.
Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (tel. 644/472-2068), or get the information directly from the website at http://wellington.usembassy.gov.
The island of Oahu is so stunning that the alii, the kings of Hawaii, made it the capital of the island nation. I've presumed that you are staying in Waikiki -- if you are in another location, be sure to factor in the time for traveling.
Day 1: Arrival & Waikiki Beach
After you get off the plane, lather up in sunscreen, grab your sunglasses and hat, and head for the most famous beach in the world -- Waikiki Beach. If you have kids in tow or you can't handle a whole afternoon in Hawaii's intense sun, you might consider checking out Hawaii's water world by dropping by the Waikiki Aquarium, or gaining insight into Waikiki's past on the Waikiki Historic Trail, a 2-mile trail marked with bronzed surfboards. Be sure to catch the sunset (anywhere on Waikiki Beach will do), and get an early dinner.
Day 2: Pearl Harbor & Honolulu's Chinatown
Head to the USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor. Get there as early as possible -- by the afternoon, the lines are 2 hours long. While you are there, be sure to see the USS Missouri Memorial and the USS Bowfin Submarine Museum & Park. On your way back, stop in Chinatown for lunch and take my self-guided walking tour of this unique area. In the afternoon, take a nap or head for the beach at Ala Moana Beach Park or a shopping spree across the street at the Ala Moana Center. Plan to have dinner in Honolulu or the surrounding area.
Day 3: North Shore & the Polynesian Cultural Center
Start your day with a drive to the North Shore. If you're up early enough, have breakfast in the quaint town of Haleiwa; if not, at least stop and get a picnic lunch before you beach-hop down the coast of the North Shore and choose from some of the world's most beautiful beaches, like Waimea Beach Park, which is calm for swimming in summer but gets pounded with 30- and 40-foot waves in winter. Any time after 12:30pm, head for the Polynesian Cultural Center in Laie. Allow at least 2 hours to tour this miniglimpse of the Pacific. Continue driving down the coast road to the small town of Kailua. Stay for dinner here to avoid the traffic back to Waikiki.
Day 4: Snorkeling in Hanauma Bay & Watching Marine Life at Sea Life Park
If it's not Tuesday (when the park is closed), head out in the morning for the spectacular snorkeling at Hanauma Bay. After a couple of hours, wander down the coast to Sea Life Park. If you have kids, this is a must-stop. Otherwise, you can continue "beach-hopping" down the coastline -- check out Sandy Beach and Makapuu Beach Park to see which one appeals to you. Then turn back to take the Pali Highway back to Waikiki (be sure to stop at the Pali Lookout).
Day 5: Rainforest Hike, Historic Honolulu & Hawaiian Culture
You probably could use a day out of the sun by now, so try a short hike into the rainforest, just a 15-minute drive from downtown Honolulu. Be sure to wear good hiking or trail shoes for the Manoa Falls Trail, and bring mosquito repellent. Next, head for downtown Honolulu to see some of the city's historic sites, including the Iolani Palace, Kawaiahao Church, Mission Houses Museum, and Hawaii Maritime Center. For a view of where you've been, go to the top of the Aloha Tower, at the Aloha Tower Marketplace, for a bird's-eye view of Honolulu. Stop for lunch at either the Marketplace or one of the nearby restaurants. Spend the afternoon at the Bishop Museum to immerse yourself in Hawaiian culture.
Day 6: Kailua Beach
On your last full day on Oahu, travel over the Pali Highway to the windward side of the island and spend a day at Kailua Beach. Before you leave Waikiki, drop by MAC 24-7 and pick up a picnic lunch. Kailua is the perfect beach to just relax or snorkel or try something different, such as kayaking or windsurfing. You can spend the entire day here, or you can take an afternoon hike at the Hoomaluhia Botanical Gardens.
Day 7: Final Day: Shopping & Art
Been having too much fun to shop for gifts for your friends back home? You can find a great selection of stores in Waikiki at the Ala Moana Shopping Center, the DFS Galleria, and the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center. If you're more interested in looking than buying, check out the Honolulu Academy of Arts, The Contemporary Museum, or the Hawaii State Art Museum. On your way back to the airport, be sure to stop at one of the Maunakea Street lei shops in Chinatown to buy a sweet-smelling souvenir of your trip.
A week is barely enough time to see the entire Big Island of Hawaii; 2 weeks would be better. But if your schedule doesn't allow more time, this tour will let you see the highlights of this huge island (twice the size of all the other islands combined). The itinerary is set up for people staying either in Kailua-Kona or on the Kohala Coast, and I suggest you spend at least 2 nights in Volcano Village to enjoy one of the stars of the Big Island, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
Day 1: Arrival & Beach Time
After you settle into your hotel, head for the beach: Snorkelers should go to Kahaluu Beach Park, surfers to White Sands Beach, privacy buffs to Kekaha Kai State Park (Kona Coast State Park), and beach aficionados can choose from Anaehoomalu Bay, Hapuna Beach, and Kaunaoa Beach (Mauna Kea Beach), depending on whether you want to snorkel, body-board, or just relax. When the sun starts to wane, head for old Kailua-Kona town and wander through the Hulihee Palace, Mokuaikaua Church, and Kamehameha's Compound at Kamakahonu Bay. Find a spot to watch the sunset (either on the pier or along the seawall), and then head for dinner in either Kailua-Kona or Keauhou.
Day 2: Out on the Water, Then Drive to Hawaii Volcanoes National Park
Since you most likely will be up early your first day in Hawaii (and still on mainland time), take advantage of it and book a morning sailing/snorkeling tour on the Fair Wind to Kealakekua Bay, a marine-life preserve. Spend the morning floating in a rainbowed sea of fish and enjoy a terrific lunch on board the sailing catamaran. After you return to Keauhou, start driving south. Great stops along the way are Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, South Point, and Green Sand Beach (Papakolea Beach). Then head up Mauna Kea to the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and stay at one of the many quaint bed-and-breakfasts in the tiny village of Volcano.
Day 3: Exploring an Active Volcano
The highlight of your trip most likely will be the time you spend in the incredible Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. I recommend spending the morning exploring the park and taking hikes. Your first stop should be the Kilauea Visitors Center. Then explore Halemaumau Crater, Thurston Lava Tube, Devastation Trail, and all the other sites in the crater. Find out from the rangers how to get to the current lava flow. In the afternoon, drive down to the current flow and walk out as far as the rangers will allow. Go eat a nice dinner in Volcano and return to the flow after dark, armed with a flashlight, water bottle, and jacket. Since you were there during the day, the path to the volcano after dark will be familiar to you. Seeing the ribbon of red lava snake its way down the side of the mountain and then thunder into the ocean is a sight you will never forget. You are going to be tired after this full day, so I recommend spending another night in Volcano.
Day 4: Touring Old Hawaii: Hilo Town, Akaka Falls, Waipio Valley & Cowboy Country
It's just a 45-minute drive from Volcano to Hilo, so plan to arrive early in the morning, grab a cup of coffee at Bears' Coffee, and wander through the old town, being sure to see Banyan Drive, Liliuokalani Gardens, Lyman Museum & Mission House, the Pacific Tsunami Museum, and one of the wonderful botanical gardens such as Nani Mau Gardens, Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden, or World Botanical Garden. Head up the Hamakua Coast, stopping at Akaka Falls and planning a lunch stop in Honokaa. After lunch, be sure to see Waipio Valley, the birthplace of Hawaii's kings, before heading for Waimea. Spend some time in this cowboy town and at the Parker Ranch Visitor Center and Museum. Spend the night along the Kohala Coast.
Day 5: The Kohala Coast: Stepping Back in Time
Get an early start on your trip back in time. The first stop is just south of Kawaihae, at the Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site, the temple Kamehameha built to the war god to ensure his success in battle. Allow at least an hour to view the temple and wander through the visitor center. Keep driving up Highway 270 to the Lapakahi State Historical Park for a view of a typical 14th-century Hawaiian village and the Mo'okini Luakini Heiau. Plan a lunch stop in Hawi or Kapaau at either Bamboo or Kohala Rainbow Cafe, and stop by The Original King Kamehameha Statue in Kapaau. The final stop on your northward journey is the Pololu Valley Lookout. On your way back, in the late afternoon (the best time for viewing), be sure to stop at the Puako Petroglyph Archaeological District. If it's Friday, make reservations at the Kona Village Luau for the perfect ending to your trip back in time.
Day 6: Mauna Kea: Where the Gods Live
Sleep in, have a lazy morning at the beach, and, in the afternoon, plan to explore Hawaii's tallest mountain (and dormant volcano), Mauna Kea. You need a four-wheel-drive vehicle to climb to the top of the 13,796-foot Mauna Kea, so I recommend you book with the experts, Mauna Kea Summit Adventures, for a 7- to 8-hour visit to this mountain, sacred to the Hawaiians and treasured by astronomers around the globe.
Day 7: Relaxing or Shopping
Depending on how much time you have on your final day, I recommend either relaxing on the beach or being pampered in a spa. Spa-goers have a range of terrific spas among the Kohala resorts to choose from. Shoppers have lots to choose from.
I've outlined the highlights of Maui for those who just have 7 days and want to see everything. Two things I suggest: First, spend 2 nights in Hana, a decision you will not regret, and second, take the Trilogy boat trip to Lanai for the day. I've designed this itinerary assuming you'll stay in West Maui for 5 days. If you are staying elsewhere (like Wailea or Kihei), allow extra driving time.
Day 1: Arrival & Kapalua Beach
Check into your hotel, and then head for Kapalua Beach. Don't overdo the sun on your first day. After an hour or two at the beach, drive to Lahaina and spend a couple of hours walking the historic old town. To really feel like you are in Hawaii, go to the Old Lahaina Luau at sunset to immerse yourself in Hawaiian culture.
Day 2: Up a 10,000-Foot Dormant Volcano & Down Again
You'll likely wake up early on your first day in Hawaii, so take advantage of it and head up to the 10,000-foot (dormant) volcano, Haleakala. You can hike in the crater, speed down the mountain on a bicycle, or just wander about Haleakala National Park. You don't have to be at the top for sunrise; in fact, it has gotten so crowded and congested at sunrise you may not have quite the awe-inspiring experience you were hoping for if you are fighting the crowds. I'd suggest wandering up any time during the day. On your way back down, stop and tour Upcountry Maui, particularly the communities of Kula, Makawao, and Paia. Plan for a sunset dinner in Paia or Kuau.
Day 3: Hana Highway
Pack a lunch and spend the entire day driving the scenic Hana Highway. Pull over often and get out to take photos, smell the flowers, and jump in the mountain stream pools. Wave to everyone, move off the road for those speeding by, and breathe in Hawaii. Plan to spend at least 2 nights in Hana.
Day 4: A Day in Heavenly Hana
An entire day in paradise, so many things to do. Take an early-morning hike along the black sands of Waianapanapa State Park; then explore the tiny town of Hana. Be sure to see the Hana Museum Cultural Center, Hasegawa General Store, and Hana Coast Gallery. Get a picnic lunch and drive out to the Kipihulu end of Haleakala National Park at Oheo Gulch. Hike to the waterfalls and swim in the pools. Splurge on dinner at the dining room at the Hotel Hana-Maui. Spend another night in Hana.
Day 5: Wine, Food & (Hawaiian) Song
Check to see if the road past Hana is open (it closed after the 2006 earthquake); if it is, continue driving around the island, past Kaupo and up to the Ulupalakua Ranch and the Tedeschi Vineyards and Winery. Stop at Grandma's Coffee House for a cup of java and head down the mountain, with a stop for lunch at Haliimaile General Store. Spend the afternoon at the Maui Ocean Center in Maalaea checking out the marine life, especially the sharks. Plan a dinner in Lahaina and see the drama/dance/music show Ulalena. If the road past Hana is closed, go back along the Hana Highway the way you came, stopping for lunch at Haliimaile, and then follow the rest of the itinerary from there.
Day 6: Sailing to Lanai
Trilogy is the best sailing/snorkeling trip in Hawaii, so don't miss it. You'll spend the day (breakfast and lunch included) sailing to the island of Lanai, snorkeling, touring the island, and sailing back to Lahaina. Plus, you still have the afternoon to go shopping for souvenirs or take a nap.
Day 7: Relaxing & Shopping
Depending on how much time you have on your final day, you can choose from relaxing on the beach, being pampered in a spa, or shopping for souvenirs and bargains. Spa-goers have a range of terrific spas, and shopping aficionados should check out some of my favorite stores. If you have a late flight, you might want to check out Iao Valley.
The island of Molokai is for people trying to get away from everything or those looking for adventure. There are no direct flights from the mainland to Molokai, so you will have to fly into Honolulu and then take a commuter plane to Molokai.
Day 1: Arrival & Kaunakakai
If you are staying in a condo or a vacation rental, head into Kaunakakai and stock up on groceries and supplies. While you're there, wander around the old two-street town and check out the stores. Be sure to stop at the Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove/Kiowea Park and watch the sunset.
Day 2: Ride a Mule to Kalaupapa
Your internal clock will still be set to mainland time, so you should have no problem getting up early and getting out to the Molokai Mule Ride. This adventure will take you through 26 switchbacks on a 1,600-foot cliff and give you a chance to tour the Kalaupapa Peninsula, where people suffering from leprosy have lived for decades.
Day 3: Head for the Beach
Molokai not only has terrific beaches, but on weekdays they generally are empty! Depending on the time of year and the weather, great beaches for snorkeling are Murphy Beach Park (Kumimi Beach Park) and Sandy Beach on the East End, and Kapukahehu (Dixie Maru) Beach on the West End. Pack a picnic lunch or stop by the Outpost Natural Foods or the Sundown Deli in Kaunakakai. Stay all day. Relax.
Day 4: Hike in a Tropical Valley & Venture into Paradise
After a day at the beach, you'll be ready for a hike into the tropical jungle of Halawa Valley. Book with The Lodge at Molokai Ranch before you head out, as you cannot venture into the valley on your own without trespassing. Bring a picnic lunch for after the hike, and then spend the rest of the day on the beach at Halawa. Stop to see the fish ponds before you leave the East End.
Day 5: Outdoor Adventure
Spend a day kayaking, bicycling, or hiking on this Hawaiian oasis. Molokai Outdoors Activities can set you up with whatever equipment you need: kayaks, mountain bikes, or maps for hiking. My choice would be kayaking along the shallow water of the East End. Mountain bikers can find the best off-road bicycle trails in the state on the Molokai Ranch, and hikers should check out Pepeopae Trail or the Kamakou Preserve.
Day 6: Touring the West End
Since you've already seen the East End, spend a day touring the rest of the island. Start out with a tour of the central part of the island by driving out to Palaau State Park, which overlooks the Kalaupapa Peninsula, then stop off at the Molokai Museum and Cultural Center, and take a coffee break at Coffees of Hawaii Plantation Store and Espresso Bar. Next head for the 3-mile-long, white-sand Papohaku Beach. After an hour or so at the beach, drive up to the cool air in Maunaloa town to see the best store on the island: the Big Wind Kite Factory & the Plantation Gallery.
Day 7: Moomomi Dunes: Archaeology Heaven
Before you catch your plane back, stop by the Moomomi Dunes, located close to the Hoolehua Airport. This wild, sand-covered coast is a treasure trove for archaeologists. Buried in the mounds are ancient Hawaiian burial sites, fossils, Hawaiian artifacts, and even the bones of prehistoric birds. If you have enough time, take the 20-minute easy walk west to Kawaaloa Bay, the perfect place to say aloha to Molokai.
The smallest of all the Hawaiian islands, Lanai was once a big pineapple plantation and now is home to two exclusive resorts, hundreds of years of history, and just one small town with some of the friendliest people you will ever meet. Like the island of Molokai, there are no direct flights from the mainland to Lanai. You will have to fly into Honolulu and then take a commuter plane to Lanai.
Day 1: Arrival & Hulopoe Bay
After you settle into your hotel, head for the beach. The best beach on the island is the marine preserve at Hulopoe Bay. It's generally safe for swimming, and because it's a marine preserve, no one can take the fish, which means snorkeling is terrific and the fish are so friendly you practically have to shoo them away.
Day 2: Tour the Island in a Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle
Lanai is a fantastic place to go four-wheeling. Generally you will not need a car if you are staying at one of the two resorts or at the Hotel Lanai (they provide shuttle bus service). So splurge and rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle for 2 or 3 days. Get a picnic lunch from Pele's Other Garden and head out of Lanai City to the Kanepuu Preserve, a 590-acre dry-land forest. Next stop is Garden of the Gods and a picnic lunch at Polihua Beach, Lanai's largest white-sand beach. The beach generally is not safe for swimming and it can be windy here, but it most likely will be deserted and you'll have a great view of Molokai in the distance. After lunch, reverse directions and head to Shipwreck Beach and then on to Keomoku Village.
Day 3: A Day at the Beach
Plan a lazy day at Hulopoe Beach. Get a good book, watch the kids play in the surf, or take a long slow walk around the crescent-shaped bay. Wander over to the Manele Bay Hotel for lunch poolside at the Ocean Grill or over to the Manele Bay Clubhouse. Plan a nap for the afternoon or try your hand at some Island crafts at the Lanai Arts Program.
Day 4: Hike (or Drive) the Munro Trail
If it has not been raining and the ground is dry, do a little exploring. The adventurous can spend the day (plan on at least 7 hr.) climbing to the top of Lanai at Lanaihale on the Munro Trail. The not-so-adventurous can take a four-wheel-drive vehicle. Pencil in a soak in a hot tub on your return.
Day 5: A Day on the Ocean
Ring up Trilogy Lanai Ocean Sports and book a sailing/snorkeling, whale-watching, or scuba trip. Or go on a surfing safari with Lanai Surf School & Surf Safari to a secluded beach.
Day 6: Horseback Riding, Followed by a Trip Back in Time
Saddle up: Horse lovers should arrange a tour of Lanai through the Stables at Koele in the morning. Then plan a four-wheel-drive in the afternoon to the historic ruins of the old Kaunolu Village, on the southwestern side of the island.
Day 7: Biking & Shopping
The best way to get around the tiny village of Lanai City is via bicycle. Rent one from The Lodge at Koele and ride (downhill) into town. Lanai City has some terrific boutique shops that you'll find nowhere else.
Hawaii's oldest island, ringed with white-sand beaches, is small and easy to circumnavigate in a week. But there are so many wonderful things to do and see that you may find yourself wishing you had more time.
Day 1: Arrival & Beach Time
After you settle in at your hotel, head for the beach. If you are staying on the south side, Poipu Beach is your best bet; on the east in the Coconut Coast area, go to Lydgate State Park; and if you are on the North Shore, try Anini, Hanalei, Haena, or Kee beaches.
Day 2: Tour the North Shore
It rains often on the Garden Isle of Kauai, so the first sunny day, head out for the North Shore. Drive all the way to the end of the road to Kee Beach. Plan to hike a little on the famous Kalalau trail in Na Pali Coast State Park -- bring hiking shoes or closed-toed tennis shoes. A half-hour on the trail will give you an idea of the spectacular coastline. The hearty may want to hike all the way to Hanakapiai Beach, a 2-hour trip one-way. After your hike, take a look at Ka Ulu O Laka Heiau at Kee Beach. Head into Hanalei for lunch, and then drive down to Hanalei Bay for a quiet afternoon on the beach, or book at tour with Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens to see one of Kauai's most beautiful (and whimsical) gardens. Plan to have dinner on the North Shore.
Day 3: See Kauai from the Air: Book a Helicopter Tour
Book a helicopter tour for Day 3, but not until 10 or 11am at the earliest, to avoid the bumper-to-bumper commuter traffic. After your tour, head to the Coconut Coast for lunch. After lunch, go back in Hawaiian history at the Wailua River State Park. Since you are already in the area, book a luau at the ResortQuest Kauai Beach at Makaiwa.
Day 4: Hiking Kokee State Park & Waimea Canyon
Get an early start and drive up to the 4,640-acre Kokee State Park, where you will find a range of hiking trails to fit every ability. Birders, hikers, and sightseers will love wandering around this park. You can get lunch at the Kokee Lodge Restaurant, open from 9am to 3:30pm. Be sure to stop by the Kokee Natural History Museum, which is full of great information as well as trail maps. In the afternoon, stop at the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific," Waimea Canyon, with more great hiking. After you've had enough hiking for the day, don't miss the Kiki a Ola (Menehune Ditch) and the Russian Fort Elizabeth State Historical Park on your way out of Waimea town. Tip: A great time to plan this trip to Kokee and Waimea is on a Friday. Since you are already on the west side, you can attend Friday night's Hanapepe Art Night, and the terrific Hanapepe Cafe & Espresso Bar will be open for dinner.
Day 5: Beach Day
Kauai has the best beaches in Hawaii, so you should devote at least 1 day to them. Check out our beach recommendations. If you're not the type to just lie around, you can book a kayak or snorkel tour (I particularly recommend a tour of the Na Pali Coast). If you've had enough sun to last you awhile, then be sure to book a tour at Allerton Garden of the National Tropical Botanical Garden. On your way back from the Garden, stop and marvel at the very unusual Spouting Horn.
Day 6: Getting out of the Rain (or Sun)
It's best to plan for at least 1 rainy day on Kauai, but my rainy-day suggestions are just as much fun to do when it's not rainy. The first thing I would do is book a Hawaii Movie Tour. An air-conditioned van takes you to some of the many spots on Kauai where films have been made, showing you clips of the movie on the spot it was made. Another great rainy-day activity is exploring the treasure-filled Kauai Museum in Lihue, or shopping at Kauai's unique markets.
Day 7: Spa Day
A treatment at a rejuvenating spa is a great way to end your trip. Kauai's best spa is the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort & Spa. In addition to the fabulous menu of treatments, they have a great area to relax, take a steam or a sauna, or just hang out in the hot tub. On the North Shore, try the Princeville Resort Kauai Health Club & Spa, which is small but very good.