176km (109 miles) S of La Paz; 35km (22 miles) W of San José del Cabo; 1,803km (1,118 miles) SE of Tijuana

The hundreds of luxury hotel rooms along the corridor north of Cabo San Lucas have transformed the very essence of this formerly rustic and rowdy outpost. Although it retains boisterous nightlife, Cabo San Lucas is no longer the simple town Steinbeck wrote about and enjoyed. Once legendary for the big-game fish that lurk offshore and for the beachside festivities that ensued after reeling them in, Cabo San Lucas now draws more people for its nearby fairways and greens -- and the world-class golf being played on them. Cabo San Lucas has become Mexico's most elite resort destination, catering to travelers getting away for long weekends or indulging in sports and relaxation.

Travelers here can enjoy a growing roster of adventure-oriented activities, and playtime doesn't end when the sun goes down. The nightlife here is as hot as the desert in July, and oddly casual, having grown up away from the Corridor's glitzy resorts and rebelling against the well-groomed style of mainland Mexico. It remains the raucous, playful party scene that helped put Cabo on the map. A collection of popular restaurants and bars along Cabo's main street stay open and active until the morning's first fishing charters head out to sea. Despite the growth in diversions, Cabo remains more or less a one-stoplight town, with almost everything within easy walking distance along the main strip.

It's not uncommon to pay a lot for mediocre food in Cabo, so try to get a couple of unbiased recommendations. If people are only drinking and not dining, take that as a clue -- many seemingly popular places are long on party atmosphere but short on food. Prices may decrease the farther you walk inland. The absolute local favorite is Gardenia's Tacos, a bare-bones eatery on Paseo Pescadores (same street as McDonald's) that serves Cabo San Lucas' best tacos. Streets to explore for other good restaurants include Hidalgo and Lázaro Cárdenas, plus the marina at the Plaza Bonita. Note that many restaurants automatically add the tip (15%) to the bill.

Watersports and partying are Cabo's main attractions, but there are also a few cultural and historical points of interest. The Spanish missionary Nicolás Tamaral established the stone Iglesia de San Lucas (Church of San Lucas) on Calle Cabo San Lucas near the main plaza in 1730; a large bell in a stone archway commemorates the completion of the church in 1746. The Pericúe Indians, who reportedly resisted Tamaral's demands that they practice monogamy, eventually killed him. Buildings on the streets facing the main plaza are gradually being renovated to house restaurants and shops, and the picturesque neighborhood promises to have the strongest Mexican ambience in town.

Nearby Day Trips -- Most local hotels and travel agencies can book day trips to the city of La Paz for around $60, including beverages and a tour of the countryside along the way. Usually there's a stop at the weaving shop of Fortunato Silva, who spins his own cotton and weaves it into wonderfully textured rugs and textiles. Day trips are also available to Todos Santos ($60), with a guided walking tour of the Cathedral Mission, museum, Hotel California, and various artists' homes.

San José has the better shopping of the two towns when it comes to quality and uniqueness, but if you're after a beer-themed T-shirt, Cabo San Lucas can't be topped. Nevertheless, the Puerto Paraíso Entertainment Plaza (tel. 624/144-3000; www.puertoparaiso.com) does have a selection of designer clothing stores, knickknack shops, and swimwear boutiques. Opened in 2002, this is now the focal point for locals' entertainment and tourists' exploration. It's a truly world-class mall, complete with free parking, movie theaters, a video arcade, a food court, and various restaurants, not the least of which is Ruth's Chris Steak House, adjacent to the marina (tel. 624/144-3232; www.ruthschris.com.mx; daily 1-11:30pm). With more than 50,000 sq. m (538,195 sq. ft.) of air-conditioned space on three levels, it's a shame so much of the mall is still empty. Rumor has it the developers are taking their time to complete construction and to rent the spaces to the right tenants, so don't expect the equivalent of a U.S. shopping mall experience for a few years. The plaza is located marina-side between the Plaza Bonita Mall and Marina Fiesta Resort -- you can't miss it if you try. Most other shops in Cabo are on or within a block or two of Boulevard Marina and the plaza.

Area Code -- The telephone area code is 624.

Beach Safety -- Before swimming in the open water, check if conditions are safe. Undertows and large waves are common. Médano Beach, close to the marina and town, is the principal beach that's safe for swimming. The ME Cabo resort on Médano Beach has a roped-off swimming area to protect swimmers from personal watercraft and boats. Colored flags to signal swimming safety aren't generally found in Cabo, and neither are lifeguards, so be aware.

Currency Exchange -- Banks exchange currency during normal business hours, generally Monday through Friday from 9am to 6pm and Saturday from 9am to 2pm. Currency-exchange booths, found throughout Cabo's main tourist areas, aren't as competitive but are more convenient. ATMs are widely available and even more convenient, dispensing pesos -- and in some cases dollars -- at bank exchange rates.

Emergencies & Hospital -- In Cabo, Amerimed (tel. 624/143-9671) is a 24-hour, American-standards clinic with bilingual physicians and emergency air-evacuation services, and it accepts major credit cards. Most of the larger hotels have a doctor on call.

Internet Access -- Cabo Mail (tel. 624/143-7796), Plaza Aramburo on Lázaro Cárdenas, charges $1 for 1 to 10 minutes, and 10¢ for each additional minute. They also offer long-distance VoIP access, fax, copies, memory stick photo downloads, color printing, and CD/DVD recording. It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 9pm, Saturday from 9:30am to 6pm, and Sunday from noon to 6pm.

Pharmacy -- A drugstore with a wide selection of toiletries as well as medicine is Farmacia Aramburo, in Plaza Aramburo, on Lázaro Cárdenas at Zaragoza (tel. 624/143-1489). It's open daily from 8am to 10pm and accepts MasterCard and Visa.

Post Office -- The correo (tel. 624/143-0048) is at Lázaro Cárdenas and Francisco Villa, on the highway to San José del Cabo, east of the bar El Squid Roe. It's open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm.