Endless pink- and white-sand beaches and a rich West Indian tradition are what put Barbados (Bar-bay-dose) on the map. Barbados is easily reached from the United States and has a grand array of hotels (many of them super expensive). Although it doesn't offer casinos, it has more than just beach life. It's a terrific destination for travelers interested in learning about West Indian culture, and it has more sightseeing attractions than most Caribbean islands.

After morning mists burn off to expose panoramas of valley and ocean, the Bajan landscape is one of the most majestic in the southern Caribbean. It's an ideal place to go on lovely driving tours to take in all the little seaside villages, plantations, gardens, and English country churches, some dating from the 17th century.

Barbados is known as "Little England" in the Caribbean. Afternoon tea remains a tradition in many places, cricket is still the national sport, and many Bajans speak with a British accent. Despite this legacy, islanders are weighing the possibility of a divorce from the mother country.

Don't rule out Barbados if you're seeking a peaceful island getaway. Although the south coast is known for its nightlife and the west-coast beach strip is completely built up, some of the island remains undeveloped. The east coast is fairly tranquil, and you can often be alone here (but because it faces the Atlantic, the waters aren't as calm as they are on the Caribbean side). Many escapists, especially Canadians seeking a low-cost place to stay in winter, don't seem to mind the Atlantic waters at all. Not only does the Atlantic Coast have Bathsheba Beach going for it, but it is also home to some of the most visited attractions on the island. These include Andromeda Botanical Garden, Farley Hill National Park, Barbados Wildlife Reserve, and Harrison's Cave.

Although crime has been on the rise in recent years, Barbados is still a relatively safe destination. The difference between the haves and the have-nots doesn't result in the violence seen on other islands like Jamaica. Bajans have a long history of welcoming foreign visitors, and that tradition of hospitality is still ingrained in most locals.

The Island's Freshest Fish -- Savvy locals can guide you to the historic Oistins Fish Market, southeast of Bridgetown and past the settlements of Hastings and Worthing. This is where Bajan fishermen unload their daily catch and sell it directly to the customer -- ideal if you have accommodations with a kitchen. If not, you can find nearly a dozen shacks selling fresh-cooked fish: Flying fish is in the fryer and fish steaks like wahoo are on the grill. On Friday night, the local vendors sponsor live bands and a medley of food stalls from 6 to 10:30pm.

Often hot and clogged with traffic, the capital, Bridgetown, merits a morning's shopping jaunt, plus a visit to some of its major sights.

Since about half a million visitors arrive on Barbados by cruise ship each year, the government has opened a US$6-million cruise-ship terminal with 20 duty-free shops, 13 local retail stores, and scads of vendors. Cruise passengers can choose from a range of products, including the arts and crafts of Barbados, jewelry, liquor, china, crystal, electronics, perfume, and leather goods. The interior was designed to re-create an island street scene; some storefronts appear as traditional chattel houses in brilliant island colors, complete with streetlights, tropical landscaping, benches, and pushcarts.

Begin your tour at the waterfront, called the Carenage (French for "turning vessels on their side for cleaning"). This was a haven for clipper ships, and even though today it doesn't have the color of yesteryear, it's still worth exploring.

At Trafalgar Square, the long tradition of British colonization is immortalized. The monument here, honoring Lord Nelson, was executed by Sir Richard Westmacott and erected in 1813. The great gray Victorian/Gothic Public Buildings on the square look like ones you might find in London. The east wing contains the meeting halls of the Senate and the House of Assembly, with some stained-glass windows representing the sovereigns of England. Look for the "Great Protector" himself, Oliver Cromwell.

Behind the Financial Building, St. Michael's Cathedral, east of Trafalgar Square, is the symbol of the Church of England. This Anglican church was built in 1655 but was completely destroyed in a 1780 hurricane. Reconstructed in 1789, it was again damaged by a hurricane in 1831. George Washington supposedly worshipped here on his visit to Barbados.

The Synagogue, Synagogue Lane (tel. 246/426-5792), is one of the oldest synagogues in the Western Hemisphere and is surrounded by a burial ground of early Jewish settlers. The present building dates from 1833. It was constructed on the site of an even older synagogue, erected by Jews from Brazil in 1654. It's now part of the National Trust of Barbados -- and a synagogue once again. It's open Monday to Friday from 9am to 3pm; a donation is appreciated.

First made popular in 1870, cricket is the national pastime on Barbados. Matches can last from 1 to 5 days. If you'd like to see one, watch for announcements in the newspapers or ask at the Barbados Cricket Association, at Kensington oval (tel. 246/436-1397).

From Bridgetown you can take a taxi to Garrison Savannah, just south of the capital, a venue for horse races.

Barbados Museum, St. Ann's Garrison, St. Michael (tel. 246/427-0201), is in a former military prison. Extensive collections show the island's development from prehistoric to modern times and give fascinating glimpses into the natural environment and fine examples of West Indian maps. The museum sells a variety of quality publications, reproductions, and handicrafts. Hours are Monday to Saturday from 9am to 5pm, Sunday from 2 to 6pm. Admission is BD$12 (US$6/�3.10) for adults, BD$5.75 (US$2.90/�1.50) for children.

Nearby, the russet-red St. Ann's Fort, on the fringe of the savanna, garrisoned British soldiers in 1694. The fort wasn't completed until 1703. The Clock House survived the hurricane of 1831.

In the Center of the Island

Many visitors stay on those fabulous west-coast beaches, but the island's true beauty is its lush interior. If you have the time, we highly recommend a hike, drive, or tour through such rarely visited parishes as St. Thomas and St. George (both are landlocked) and the wild Atlantic coast parishes of St. Andrews, St. Joseph, and St. John.

The Great Tour

From mid-January through the first week of April, you can tour a different great house every Wednesday afternoon from 2:30 to 5:30pm, many rarely seen by the public. You'll see a great array of plantation antiques and get a feeling for the elegant colonial lifestyle once commonplace on Barbados. For more information, call tel. 246/426-2421.

A Beautiful Picnic Spot

Farley Hill National Park surrounds what used to be one of the greatest houses of Barbados, Farley Hill, a mansion in ruins. The park lies to the north of the parish of St. Peter, directly across the road leading into the Barbados Wildlife Reserve. You can bring in a picnic and wander in the park, overlooking the turbulent waters of the Atlantic. You can enter the park for free if you're walking, but it costs US$2 (�1.05) to bring a car in. Hours are daily 8:30am to 5pm.

You may find duty-free merchandise here at prices 20% to 40% lower than in the United States and Canada -- but you've got to be a smart shopper to spot bargains, and you should be familiar with prices back in your hometown. Duty-free shops have two prices listed on items of merchandise: the local retail price and the local retail price less the government-imposed tax.

Some of the best duty-free buys include cameras, watches, crystal, gold jewelry, bone china, cosmetics and perfumes, and liquor (including locally produced Barbados rum and liqueurs), along with tobacco products and cashmere sweaters, tweeds, and sportswear from Britain. If you purchase items made on Barbados, you don't have to pay duty.

The quintessential Barbados handicrafts are black-coral jewelry and clay pottery. The latter originates at Highland Pottery, Inc. (tel. 246/422-9818), which is worth a visit. Potters turn out different products, some based on designs that are centuries old. The potteries (which are signposted) are north of Bathsheba on the east coast, in St. Joseph Parish near Barclay's Park. In shops across the island, you'll also find a selection of locally made vases, pots, pottery mugs, glazed plates, and ornaments.

Island artisans weave wall hangings from local grasses and dried flowers, and also turn out straw mats, baskets, and bags with raffia embroidery. Leatherwork, particularly handbags, belts, and sandals, is also found on Barbados.

In Bridgetown

Cruise passengers generally head for the cruise-ship terminal at Bridgetown Harbour, which has some 20 duty-free shops, 13 local shops, and many vendors.

At Articrafts, Norman Center Mall, Broad Street (tel. 246/427-5767), John and Roslyn Watson have assembled an impressive display of Bajan arts and crafts. Roslyn's distinctive wall hangings are decorated with objects from the island, including sea fans and coral. The unique Colours of De Caribbean, the Waterfront Marina (next to the Waterfront Caf�, on the Carenage; tel. 246/436-8522), carries a limited selection of original hand-painted and batik clothing, all made in the West Indies, plus jewelry and decorative objects.

Cave Shepherd, Broad Street (tel. 246/431-2121), is the largest department store on the island and the best place for duty-free merchandise. There are branches at Sunset Crest in Holetown, Da Costas Mall, Grantley Adams Airport, and the Bridgetown cruise-ship terminal, but if your time is limited, try this outlet, as it has the widest selection. The store sells perfumes, cosmetics, fine crystal and bone china, cameras, jewelry, swimwear, leather goods, men's designer clothing, handicrafts, liquor, and souvenirs. You can take a break in the cool comfort of the Balcony, overlooking Broad Street, which serves vegetarian dishes and has a salad bar and beer garden.

Harrison's, 10-14 Broad St. (tel. 246/431-5500), has six branch stores, all selling a wide variety of duty-free merchandise, including china, crystal, jewelry, watches, liquor, and perfumes -- all at fair prices. Also for sale are some fine leather products handcrafted in Colombia.

Little Switzerland, in the Da Costas Mall, Broad Street (tel. 246/431-0030), offers a wide selection of watches, fine jewelry, and an array of goodies from Waterford, Lalique, Swarovski, Baccarat, and others.

Pelican Crafts Centre, Harbour Road (tel. 246/426-4391), is rather an overpriced tourist trap, hawking craft items. In Bridgetown, go down Princess Alice Highway to the city's Deep Water Harbour, where you'll find this tiny colony of thatch-roofed shops. Most of the shops here are gimmicky, but a few interesting items can be found if you search hard enough. Sometimes you can see craftspeople at work.

Elsewhere on the Island

The Watering Hole, Highway 7, St. Lawrence Gap (tel. 246/435-6375), is not only the best place to purchase bottles of Bajan rum at duty-free prices, but is also a great dive for hanging out. A small bottle of rum (about 6 oz.) sells for around US$7. Some locals as well as savvy visitors come here and make an evening of it, sampling the various rum drinks. Of course, you may need someone to carry you back to your hotel as these punches are lethal. Opening times vary -- call to be sure -- but we've seen this place going strong at 3am. One of the most interesting shopping jaunts in Barbados is to Tyrol Cot Heritage Village, Codrington Hill, St. Michael (tel. 246/424-2074), the former home of the Bajan national hero, Sir Grantley Adams. On the grounds of the former prime minister's estate is a colony of artisans, who turn out an array of articles for sale ranging from paintings to pottery, from baskets to handmade figurines.

Earthworks Pottery/On the Wall Gallery, Edgehill Heights 2, St. Thomas (tel. 246/425-0223), is one of the artistic highlights of Barbados. Deep in the island's central highlands, Canadian-born Goldie Spieler and her son, David, create whimsical ceramics in the colors of the sea and sky; many are decorated with Antillean-inspired swirls and zigzags. On the premises are a studio and a showroom that sells the output of at least half a dozen other island potters. Purchases can be shipped.

The Shell Gallery "Contentment," Gibbes Hill, St. Peter (tel. 246/422-2593), has the best collection of shells in the West Indies. Also offered are shell jewelry, and local pottery and ceramics.

Greenwich House Antiques, Greenwich Village, Trents Hill, St. James (tel. 246/432-1169), a 25-minute drive from Bridgetown, feels like a genteel private home where the objects for sale seem to have come from the attic of your slightly dotty great aunt. Dozens of objects fill every available inch of display space, including Barbados mahogany furniture.

Banks -- Most banks are open Monday to Thursday 8am to 5pm, and Friday 8am to 3pm. The major banks of Barbados, all with ATMs, are found along Broad Street in Bridgetown, including branches of First Caribbean Bank (formerly Barclays), the Barbados National Bank, and the Bank of Nova Scotia. These banks also have branch offices in Holetown, Speightstown, and along the St. Lawrence Gap south of Bridgetown. There are ATMs at the airport as well, plus at bank branches throughout the island.

Consulates & High Commissions -- The Embassy of the United States is on Broad Street, Bridgetown (tel. 246/436-4950), and the Canadian High Commission at Lower Bishop's Court, Pine Road, Bridgetown (tel. 246/429-3550). The British High Commission is found at Lower Collymore Rock, St. Michael (tel. 246/430-7880).

Currency -- The Barbados dollar (BD$) is the official currency, available in $5, $10, $20, and $100 notes, as well as 10�, 25�, and $1 silver coins, plus 1� and 5� copper coins. The Barbados dollar is permanently fixed because of an international agreement at the rate of approximately 50� in U.S. currency. In contrast, the value of the British pound is not permanently fixed, and as such, it floats freely, going up or down in relation to a wide range of political and economic factors that change from day to day. At presstime for this edition �1 equaled approximately BD$3.90. Most stores take traveler's checks or U.S. dollars. However, it's best to convert your money at banks and pay in Barbados dollars. Unless otherwise specified, prices in this chapter are quoted in U.S. dollars and British pounds.

Customs -- Most items for personal use (within reason, of course) are allowed into Barbados, except agricultural products and firearms. You can bring in perfume for your use if it's not for sale. You're also allowed a carton of cigarettes and a liter of liquor.

Documents -- Citizens of all countries need a passport to enter Barbados, including those from the United States and Canada. Cruise-ship passengers need only the ship's magnetic identification card. However, if a cruise begins and ends in Barbados, a passport is required.

Electricity -- The electricity is 110-volt AC (50 cycles), so you can use your U.S.-made appliances.

Emergencies -- In an emergency, dial the police at tel. 211, the fire department at tel. 311, and an ambulance at tel. 511.

Hospitals -- The Queen Elizabeth Hospital is located on Martinsdale Road in St. Michael (tel. 246/436-6450). Of the several private clinics, one of the most expensive and best recommended is the Bayview Hospital, St. Paul's Avenue, Bayville, St. Michael (tel. 246/436-5446).

Language -- The Bajans speak English, but with their own island lilt.

Liquor Laws -- Liquor, beer, and wine are sold throughout the island at every outlet from grocery stores to convenience stores on any day the stores are open. Open containers are illegal on the beach.

Safety -- Crimes against visitors used to be rare, but there are today reports of pickpocketing, armed robbery, and even sexual assault. Avoid leaving cash or valuables in your hotel room; beware of purse snatchers when walking, exercise caution on the beach or at attractions; and be wary of driving in isolated areas.

Taxes -- A 7 1/2% government sales tax is tacked on to hotel bills. A 15% VAT (value-added tax) is levied on all meals. (For example, if your hotel costs US$200 per night, and you are charged US$50 per person for a MAP, you'll have to pay a 7 1/2% government tax plus the 10% additional service charge for the US$200 room rate, and then an additional 15% VAT on the MAP rate.) Some visitors view these additional charges as "larcenous." They certainly won't make you happy when you go to pay your final bill. There's a departure tax of BD$25 (US$13) which is payable in either U.S. dollars or Barbadian currency.

Telephone -- To call Barbados from the United States, dial 1, then 246 (the area code for Barbados) and the local number. Once on Barbados, to call another number on the island, only the local number is necessary.

Time -- Barbados is on Atlantic Standard Time year-round, so it's 1 hour ahead of New York except during daylight saving time, when Barbados's time is the same as the eastern United States.

Tipping -- Most hotels and restaurants add at least a 10% service charge to your bill. If service is extremely good, you may want to supplement that. If it has not been included, you may want to tip your waiter 10% to 15%. Taxi drivers expect a 10% tip.

Water -- Barbados has a pure water supply. It's pumped from underground sources in the coral rock that covers most of the island, and it's safe to drink.

Weather -- Daytime temperatures are in the 75�F to 85�F (24�C-29�C) range throughout the year.