The Bahamas is one of the most geographically complicated nations of the Atlantic. A coral-based archipelago, it is composed of more than 700 islands, 2,000 cays (pronounced "keys," from the Spanish word for small islands), and hundreds of rocky outcroppings that have damaged the hulls of countless ships since colonial days.
The Commonwealth of The Bahamas came into being in 1973 after centuries of colonial rule. After Great Britain granted The Bahamas internal self-rule in 1964, the fledgling nation adopted its own constitution but chose not to sever its ties with its motherland. It has remained in the Commonwealth, with the British monarch as its head of state. In the British tradition, The Bahamas has a two-house Parliament, a ministerial cabinet headed by a prime minister, and an independent judiciary. The queen appoints a Bahamian governor-general to represent the Crown.
As The Bahamas moves deeper into the millennium, the government and various investors continue to pump money into the tourism infrastructure, especially on Paradise Island, across from Nassau, as well as Cable Beach adjoining Nassau. Cruise-ship tourism continues to increase, and a more upscale crowd is coming back after abandoning The Bahamas for many years in favor of other Caribbean islands such as St. Barts and Anguilla.
When Hubert Ingraham became prime minister in 1992, he launched the country down the long road toward regaining its market share of tourism, which under Prime Minister Lynden Pindling had seen a rapid decline. Exit polls revealed some first-time visitors vowing never to return to The Bahamas under the administration of the notorious Pindling, whose government had taken over a number of hotels and failed to maintain them properly.
When Ingraham took over as prime minister, however, he wisely recognized that the government wasn't supposed to be in the hospitality business and turned many properties back over to the professionals. After a painful slump, tourism in the post-Pindling era is booming again in The Bahamas, and more than 1.6 million visitors from all over the world now flock here annually. In the capital of Nassau, it's easy to see where the government's money is being spent: on widened roads, repaved sidewalks, underground phone cables, massive landscaping, sweeping esplanades, a cleanup campaign, and additional police officers walking the beat to cut down on crime.
Perry Gladstone Christie, prime minister from 2002-07, continued to carry out those same policies to better Nassau. Ingraham was reelected prime minister in May 2007.
Unlike Haiti and Jamaica, The Bahamas has remained politically stable and made the transition from minority white rule to black majority rule with relatively little tension.
Economic conditions have slowly improved here as well. You do not see the wretched poverty in Nassau that you see in, say, Kingston, Jamaica, though many poor residents do still live on New Providence Island's "Over-the-Hill" section, an area where few tourists venture to visit (although the neighborhood is gritty and fascinating).
Nassau really is the true Bahamas. You'd think a city so close to the U.S. mainland would have been long since overpowered by American culture. Yet, except for some fast-food chain outlets, American pop music, and Hollywood films, Nassau retains a surprising amount of its traditionally British feel. (By contrast, Freeport/Lucaya on Grand Bahama Island has become almost completely Americanized, with little British aura or Bahamian tradition left.)
The biggest changes have occurred in the hotel sector. Developers have vastly expanded the Atlantis Resort on Paradise Island, turning it into a virtual water world. Even more expansions have been announced, to be completed in 2009 and beyond. The Hilton interests have developed the decaying old British Colonial in Nassau, restoring it to life.
And Grand Bahama Island is in an interesting state of flux. Hotels along the entire Lucayan strip are being upgraded.
If there's a downside to this boom, it's the emphasis on megahotels and casinos -- and the corresponding lack of focus on the Out Islands, which include the Abacos, Andros, Bimini, Cat Island, the Exumas, Long Island, and San Salvador. Large resort chains, with the exception of Four Seasons and Club Med, have ignored these islands; most continue to slumber away in relative seclusion and poverty. Other than the Four Seasons megaresort that opened in the Exumas, development in the drowsy Out Islands has been minor. The very lack of progress here will continue to attract a certain breed of adventurous explorer, the one who shuns the resorts and casinos of Paradise Island, Cable Beach, and Freeport/Lucaya. Little change in this Out-Islands-versus-the-rest situation is anticipated in the immediate future, except for the island chain of Eleuthera, which is planning to open several boutique hotels in the near future.
There's another trend to note in The Bahamas. After a long slumber, the government and many concerned citizens here have awakened to eco-tourism. More than any government in the Caribbean except perhaps Bonaire, this nation is trying to protect its ecology. If nothing else, residents realize this will be good for tourism because many visitors come to The Bahamas precisely for its natural wonders.
Government, private companies, and environmental groups have drawn up a national framework of priorities to protect the islands. One of their first goals was to save the nearly extinct West Indian flamingo. Today about 60,000 flamingos inhabit Great Inagua Island. Other programs aim to prevent the extinction of the green turtle, the white-crowned pigeon, the Bahamian parrot, and the New Providence iguana.
Although tourism and the environment are bouncing back, many problems still remain for this archipelago nation. While some Bahamians seem among the friendliest and most hospitable people in the world, others -- particularly those in the tourist industry -- can be downright hostile. To counter this, the government is working to train its citizens to be more helpful, courteous, and efficient. Sometimes this training has been taken to heart; at other times, however, it still clearly has not. Service with a smile is not assured in The Bahamas.
Drug smuggling remains a serious problem, and, regrettably, there seems to be no immediate solution. Because the country is so close to U.S. shores, it is often used as a temporary depot for drugs shipped from South America to Florida. The Bahamas previously developed a tradition of catering to the illicit habits of U.S. citizens as well; during the heyday of Prohibition, long before cocaine, marijuana, and heroin were outlawed, many Bahamians grew rich smuggling rum into the United States. Things have improved, but you'll still see stories in the newspapers about floating bales of marijuana turning up in the sea just off The Bahamas' coastline and such.
Though this illicit trade rarely affects the casual tourist, it's important to know that it is a factor here -- and so, armed with this knowledge, don't agree to carry any packages to or from the U.S. for a stranger while you're visiting. You could end up taking a much longer vacation on these islands than you had ever imagined.
Beaches 101: Paradise Island, Cable Beach & More
In The Bahamas, the issue about public access to beaches is a hot and controversial subject. Recognizing this, the government has made efforts to intersperse public beaches near private ones, where access would otherwise be impeded. Although megaresorts discourage nonguests from easy access to their individual beaches, there are so many public beaches on New Providence Island and Paradise Island that all a beach lover has to do is stop his or her car (or walk) to many of the unmarked, unnamed beaches that flank these islands.
If you stay in one of the large beachfront resorts, all you need to do is leave the grounds of the hotel and head for the ocean via the sand in front the resort. But if your accommodation is not beachfront or you want to explore another beach, here are a few details:
Cabbage Beach: On Paradise Island, this is the real showcase, with broad, white sands that stretch for at least 3km (2 miles). Casuarinas, palms, and sea grapes border it. While it's likely to be crowded in winter, you can find a little more elbowroom by walking to the northwestern stretch of the beach. You can reach Paradise Island from downtown Nassau by walking over the bridge, taking a taxi, or boarding a ferryboat at Prince George Dock. Cabbage Beach does not have public facilities, but you can patronize one of the handful of bars and restaurants nearby and use their restrooms Technically, you should be a customer, even if that means buying only a drink, even a Coca-Cola.
Cable Beach: No particular beach is actually called Cable Beach, yet this is the most popular beachfront on New Providence Island. Instead of an actual beach, Cable Beach is the name given to a string of resorts and beaches that lies in the center of New Providence's northern coast, attracting the most visitors. This beachfront offers 6.5km (4 miles) of soft white sand, and the types of food, restaurants, snack bars, and watersports offered at the hotels lining the waterfront vary. Calypso music floats to the sand from hotel pool patios where vacationers play musical chairs and see how low they can limbo. Vendors wind their way among sunblock-slathered bodies. Some sell armloads of shell jewelry, T-shirts, beach cover-ups, and fresh coconuts for sipping the sweet "water" straight from the shell. Others offer their hair-braiding services or sign up visitors for water-skiing, jet-skiing, and banana boat rides. Kiosks advertise parasailing, scuba diving, and snorkeling trips, as well as party cruises to offshore islands. Waters can be rough and reefy, then calm and clear a little farther along the shore. There are no public toilets here because guests of the resorts use their hotel facilities. If you're not a guest of the hotel or a customer, you are not supposed to use the facilities. The Cable Beach resorts begin 4.8km (3 miles) west of downtown Nassau. Even though resorts line much of this long swath of beach, there are various sections where public access is available without crossing through private hotel grounds.
Caves Beach: On the north shore, past the Cable Beach Properties, Caves Beach lies some 11km (6 3/4 miles) west of Nassau. It stands near Rock Point, right before the turnoff along Blake Road that leads to the airport. Since visitors often don't know of this beach, it's another good spot to escape the hordes. It's also a good beach with soft sands. There are no toilets or changing facilities.
Delaporte Beach: Just west of the busiest section of Cable Beach, Delaporte Beach is a public access beach where you can escape the crowds. It opens onto clear waters and boasts white sands, although it has no facilities. Nonetheless, it's an option.
Goodman's Bay: This public beach lies east of Cable Beach on the way toward the center of Nassau. Goodman's Bay and Saunders Beach often host local fundraising cookouts, where vendors sell fish, chicken, conch, peas 'n' rice, or macaroni and cheese. People swim and socialize to blaring reggae and calypso music. To find out when one of these beach parties is happening, ask the staff at your hotel or pick up a local newspaper. There is a playground here, plus toilet facilities.
Paradise Beach: On Paradise Island, this is one of the best beaches in the entire area. The white sandy beach is dotted with chikees (thatched huts), which are perfect when you've had too much of the sun. Mainly used by guests of the Atlantis Resort, it lies at the far western tip of the island. If you're not a resident, access is difficult. If you're staying at a hotel in Nassau and want to come to Paradise Island for a day at the beach, it's better to go to Cabbage Beach .
Saunders Beach: East of Cable Beach, this is where many islanders go on the weekends. To reach it, take West Bay Street from Nassau in the direction of Coral Island. The beach lies across from Fort Charlotte, just west of Arawak Cay. Like Goodman's Bay , it often hosts local fundraising cookouts open to the public. These can be a lot of fun. There are no public facilities.
Western Esplanade (also called Junkanoo Beach): If you're staying at a hotel in downtown Nassau, such as the British Colonial Hilton, this is a good beach to patronize close to town. The narrow strip of sand is convenient to Nassau and has toilets, changing facilities, and a snack bar.
The Bahamian chain of islands, cays, and reefs stretches from Grand Bahama Island, 121km (75 miles) almost due east of Palm Beach, Florida, to Great Inagua, the southernmost island, which lies 97km (60 miles) northeast of Cuba and fewer than 161km (100 miles) north of Haiti.
The most developed islands for tourism in The Bahamas are New Providence Island, site of Nassau (the capital) and Cable Beach; Paradise Island; and Grand Bahama, home of Freeport and Lucaya. If you're after glitz, gambling, bustling restaurants, nightclubs, and a beach-party scene, these big three islands are where you'll want to be. Package deals are easily found here.
Set sail (or hop on a short commuter flight) for one of the Out Islands, such as Andros, the Exumas, or the Abacos, and you'll find fewer crowds -- and often lower prices, too. Though some of the Out Islands are accessible mainly (or only) by boat, it's still worth your while to make the trip if you like the idea of having an entire beach to yourself. This is really the place to get away from it all.
New Providence Island (Nassau/Cable Beach)
New Providence isn't the largest of the Bahamian Islands, but it's the historic heart of the nation, with a strong maritime tradition and the largest population in the country. Home to more than 125,000 residents, it offers groves of palms and casuarinas; sandy, flat soil; the closest thing in The Bahamas to urban sprawl; and superb anchorages sheltered from rough seas by the presence of nearby Paradise Island. New Providence has the country's busiest airport and is dotted with hundreds of villas owned by foreign investors. Its two major resort areas are Cable Beach and Nassau.
The resort area of Cable Beach is a glittering beachfront strip of hotels, restaurants, and casinos; only Paradise Island has been more developed. Its center is the Marriott Resort & Crystal Palace Casino. Often, deciding between Cable Beach and Paradise Island isn't so much a choice of which island you prefer as a choice of which hotel you prefer. But it's easy to sample both, since it takes only about 30 minutes to drive between the two.
Nassau, the Bahamian capital, isn't on a great stretch of shoreline and doesn't have as many first-rate hotels as either Paradise Island or Cable Beach -- with the exception of the British Colonial Hilton, which has a small private beach. The main advantages of Nassau are colonial charm and price. Its hotels may not be ideally located, but they are relatively inexpensive; some offer very low prices even during the winter high season. You can base yourself here and commute easily to the beaches at Paradise Island or Cable Beach. Some travelers even prefer Nassau because it's the seat of Bahamian culture and history -- not to mention the shopping mecca of The Bahamas.
Paradise Island
If high-rise hotels and glittering casinos are what you want, along with some of the best beaches in The Bahamas, there is no better choice than Paradise Island, directly off the coast of Nassau. It has the best food, the best entertainment, terrific beaches, casinos, and the best hotels. Its major drawbacks are that it's expensive and often overcrowded. Boasting a colorful history yet some unremarkable architecture, Paradise Island remains one of the most intensely marketed pieces of real estate in the world. The sands and shoals of the elongated and narrow island protect the wharves and piers of Nassau, which rise across a narrow channel only 180m (590 ft.) away.
Owners of the 277-hectare (684-acre) island have included brokerage mogul Joseph Lynch (of Merrill Lynch) and Huntington Hartford (heir to the A&P supermarket fortune). More recent investors have included Merv Griffin. The island today is a carefully landscaped residential and commercial complex with good beaches, lots of glitter (some of it tasteful, some of it way too over-the-top), and many diversions.
Grand Bahama Island (Freeport/Lucaya)
The island's name derives from the Spanish term gran bajamar (great shallows), which refers to the shallow reefs and sandbars that, over the centuries, have destroyed everything from Spanish galleons to English clipper ships on Grand Bahama's shores. Thanks to the tourist development schemes of U.S. financiers such as Howard Hughes, Grand Bahama boasts a well-developed tourist infrastructure. Casinos, beaches, and restaurants are now plentiful here.
Grand Bahama's Freeport/Lucaya resort area is another popular destination for American tourists, though it has a lot more tacky development than Paradise Island or Cable Beach. The compensation for that is a lower price tag on just about everything. Freeport/Lucaya offers plenty of opportunities for fine dining, entertainment, and gambling. Grand Bahama also offers the best hiking in The Bahamas and has some of the finest sandy beaches. Its golf courses attract players from all over the globe, and the island hosts major tournaments several times a year. You'll find some of the world's best diving here, as well as UNEXSO, the internationally famous diving school. Grand Bahama Island is especially popular with families.
Bimini
One of the smallest islands in The Bahamas, it's close enough to Miami (just 81km/50 miles away) to be distinctly separate from the other islands of the archipelago. Bimini is actually a pair of islands with a total area of 23 sq. km (9 sq. miles); smaller North Bimini is better developed than South Bimini. Luxurious yachts and fishing boats are always docked at the island's marinas. Throughout Bimini, there's a slightly run-down Florida-resort atmosphere mingled with some small-town charm (think old-time Key West, before the cruise-ship crowds ruined it).
Sportfishing here is among the best in the world. Once the setting for Ernest Hemingway's Islands in the Stream , Bimini attracts big-game fishers for big-league fishing tournaments. If you'd like to follow in the footsteps of such famous anglers as Zane Grey and Howard Hughes, this is your island. In addition, the scuba diving ranks among the very best in The Bahamas.
The Berry Islands
Lying between Nassau and the coast of Florida, these 30-odd islands -- which contain only about 77 sq. km (30 sq. miles) of dry land among them -- attract devoted yachters and fishermen. This series of islets, cays, and rows of barely submerged rocks have extremely limited tourist facilities and are geared mostly toward well-heeled anglers, many of whom hail from Florida. Most of the full-time population (about 700 people) lives on Great Harbour. We find these islands a lot classier and more charming than Bimini.
Andros
Made up of two islands, connected by a series of canals and cays called bights, Andros is the largest landmass in The Bahamas. It attracts divers, fishing enthusiasts, and sightseers.
Most of the island is uninhabited and unexplored. The main villages are Nicholl's Town, Andros Town, and Congo Town; all are accessible by frequent boat and plane connections from Miami and Nassau. Lodgings range from large resorts to small, plain guesthouses that cater mainly to fishermen.
The world's third-largest barrier reef lies off the coast of Andros, and divers come from all over the world to explore it. The reef plunges 1,800m (5,904 ft.) at a narrow drop-off known as the Tongue of the Ocean. Bonefishing here is among the best on earth, and Andros is also known for its world-class marlin and bluefin tuna fishing.
Known as the "Big Yard," the central portion of Northern Andros is largely a dense forest of mahogany and pine where more than 50 varieties of orchids bloom. Southern Andros boasts a 103-sq.-km (40-sq.-mile) forest and mangrove swamp. Any hotel can arrange a local guide to give a tour.
The Abacos
Though this "island" is often called Abaco, it is actually a cluster of islands and islets. It is a mecca for yachters and other boaters who flock here year-round -- particularly in July, when the Regatta Time in Abaco race is held at the Green Turtle Yacht Club. For centuries the residents of the Abacos have been boat builders, although tourism is now the main industry.
With the exception of Harbour Island in Eleuthera, you'll find more New England charm here than anywhere else in The Bahamas. Loyalists who left New England after the American Revolution settled here and built Cape Cod-style clapboard houses with white picket fences. The best places to experience this old-fashioned charm are Green Turtle Cay and Elbow Cay, which are accessible from Marsh Harbour. Marsh Harbour itself houses an international airport and a shopping center, although its hotels aren't as good as those on Green Turtle Cay and Elbow Cay (Hope Town).
Many of the Abaco islands are undeveloped and uninhabited. For the best of both worlds, visitors can stay at resorts on Walker's, Green Turtle, or Treasure cays, and then charter a boat to tour the more remote areas.
Eleuthera
Long and slender, this most historic of the Out Islands (the first English settlers arrived here in 1648) is actually a string of islands that includes Spanish Wells and Harbour Island, a chic destination. The length of the island (177km/110 miles) and the distances between Eleuthera's communities require access via three airports. The island lies about 97 km (60 miles) west of Nassau; frequent flights connect the two. Eleuthera is similar to Abaco, and visitors are drawn to the miles of barrier reef and fabulous secluded beaches.
Gregory Town is the pineapple capital of the island chain. A bit farther south is Surfers Beach, one of the best surfing spots in The Bahamas. Several accommodations are available in this sleepy, slightly budget-oriented section of Eleuthera. The only major resort along the entire stretch of Eleuthera is the Club Med at Governor's Harbour. Other inns are more basic.
At the southern end of the island, Rock Sound is in a slump, waiting to see whether the fabled Cotton Bay Club will ever reopen.
Off the coast of Eleuthera, Harbour Island offers excellent hotels and food, picket fences, and pastel-colored houses that evoke Cape Cod. The beaches on Harbour Island are famed for their pink sand tinged by crushed coral and shells. Another offshore island near Eleuthera, Spanish Wells has extremely limited accommodations, and the residents -- descendants of long-ago Loyalists -- aren't very welcoming to visitors.
The Exumas
Just 56km (35 miles) southeast of Nassau, this 588km-long (365-mile) string of islands and cays -- most of them uninhabited -- is the great yachting hub of The Bahamas, rivaling (and some say surpassing) the Abacos. These waters, some of the prettiest in The Bahamas, are also ideal for fishing (bonefishing especially). Many secluded beaches open onto tranquil cays. Daily flights service the Exumas from Nassau, Miami, and Atlanta.
This island chain's commercial center is George Town on Great Exuma, while the Exuma National Land and Sea Park -- protected by The Bahamas National Trust -- encompasses much of the coastline. The park is accessible only by boat and is one of the major natural wonders and sightseeing destinations of The Bahamas, with an abundance of undersea life, reefs, blue holes, and shipwrecks. Portions of the James Bond thriller Thunderball were filmed at Staniel Cay. Each year in April, George Town hosts the interisland Family Island Regatta, a major event on the yachting calendar. A big new Four Seasons resort and golf course officially opened in the winter of 2004 at Emerald Bay in Great Exuma, bringing a new crowd here. The Four Seasons recently added a deep-water marina with 125 state-of-the-art slips for ocean-going yachts, along with a dock master. A few good inns are also on Great Exuma, centered mainly at George Town, and the locals are very hospitable. You'll feel like you practically have the archipelago to yourself.
The Southern Bahamas
This cluster of islands -- with excellent beaches, good fishing, and dive sites -- is known for its remoteness on the southern fringe of The Bahamas. Cat Island is only a few miles wide and 77km (48 miles) long. It's a lush, sleepy island in the southern Bahamian backwater, a great place to get away from it all.
Tradition holds that San Salvador was the first landmass that Christopher Columbus reached during his voyage to the New World in 1492. With its history and good beaches, the island is sure to undergo further development.
The appropriately named Long Island stretches for 93km (58 miles). Despite a beautiful landscape -- there are high cliffs in the north, wide shallow beaches, historic plantation ruins, and native caves -- it has remained off the beaten track. It's not always easy to get here; there are two minor airports with arrivals from Nassau, but flights do not occur daily. Both the Stella Maris Resort Club and the luxurious Cape Santa Maria Beach offer fishing and watersports.
Acklins Island and Crooked Island are hard to reach, have limited tourist facilities, and appeal to people who want to escape civilization. The clear waters offshore offer good snorkeling and diving, and you'll have the sandy beaches to yourself. These islands are populated by only a mere 1,000 souls; lodging is available on Crooked Island only.
Set very close to the eastern tip of Cuba, Great Inagua is the most southerly island of The Bahamas and the third largest in the nation. Pink flamingos thrive here. For the serious bird-watcher, there is no place else like it in the Caribbean. A handful of no-frills inns provide accommodations.
Cruises to The Bahamas are usually either 3- or 4-day weekend getaways or weeklong itineraries in which the ship may stop at Nassau, Freeport, and/or one of several privately owned Bahamian islands for a day at the beach.
Regardless of the ship you choose, your cruise will probably depart from the cruise capital of the world, Miami. A handful of vessels also depart for Bahamian waters from Port Everglades (adjacent to Fort Lauderdale), Port Canaveral, and, in very rare instances, from New York. Many cruise-ship passengers combine a cruise with visits to Orlando's theme parks, Miami's South Beach, the Florida Everglades, or the Florida Keys and Key West.
Nearly all cabins aboard ships today have two twin beds that can be pushed together, plus storage space (of varying size), a shower and a toilet (ditto), and sometimes a TV showing a rotating stock of programs. If you want to keep costs to a minimum when booking, ask for one of the smaller, inside cabins (one without windows). If you like to be active all day and stay out late enjoying the ship's bars and nightclubs, you won't miss the sunshine anyway. On the other hand, ships offer suites today that have an amazing array of pampering options (including hot tubs on their own private verandas!).
Because they buy in such bulk, cruise lines typically offer some of the best deals on airfare to your port of embarkation, and also typically offer extension packages that allow pre- or post-cruise stays at a hotel or resort.
Getting around Freeport/Lucaya or Nassau is relatively easy, and the official shore excursions offered by most ships are dull and sometimes restrictive, so it's best to decide what you want to do (shopping, swimming, snorkeling, or gambling) and head off on your own during your stop at each port of call. You'll certainly have time to relax at the beach if you choose, or to enjoy watersports (the chapters that follow will give you details on what companies or outfitters to contact for equipment, so you needn't feel dependent on the cruise line for everything).
In Nassau, cruise ships anchor at piers along Prince George Wharf. Taxi drivers meet all arrivals and will transport you into the heart of Nassau, center of most shopping and sightseeing activities. Duty-free shops also lie just outside the dock area, but for that, you'd do better to go inside the city's commercial and historic core.
As you disembark, you'll find a tourist information office in a tall pink tower, where you can pick up maps of New Providence Island or of Nassau itself. One-hour walking tours are conducted from here if you'd like an overview of the city, with a guide pointing out historic monuments. Outside this office, an ATM will supply you with U.S. dollars if your cash is running low.
Staying Healthy
Even on the remotest island, you'll find, if not a hospital, a local medicine man (or woman, in many cases). Many Bahamians are fond of herbal remedies. But you don't need to rely on these primitive treatments, as most resorts have either hospitals or clinics on-site.
The major health risk here is not tropical disease, as it is in some Caribbean islands, but rather the bad luck of ingesting a bad piece of shellfish, exotic fruit, or too many rum punches. If your body is not accustomed to some of these foods or they haven't been cleaned properly, you may suffer diarrhea. If you tend to have digestive problems, then drink bottled water and avoid ice, unpasteurized milk, and uncooked food such as fresh salads. However, fresh food served in hotels is usually safe to eat.
The Bahamas has excellent medical facilities. Physicians and surgeons in private practice are readily available in Nassau, Cable Beach, and Freeport/Lucaya. A dozen or so health centers are in the Out Islands. Medical personnel hold satellite clinics periodically in small settlements, and there are about 35 other clinics, adding up to a total of approximately 50 health facilities throughout the outlying islands. (We've listed the names and telephone numbers of specific clinics in the individual island coverage that follows throughout this book.) If intensive or urgent care is required, patients are brought by the Emergency Flight Service to Princess Margaret Hospital (tel. 242/322-2861) on Shirley Street, Nassau. Some of the big resort hotels have in-house physicians or can quickly secure one for you.
There is also a government-operated hospital, Rand Memorial (tel. 242/352-6735), on East Atlantic Drive, Freeport, and several government-operated clinics on Grand Bahama Island. Nassau and Freeport/Lucaya also have private hospitals.
Dentists are plentiful in Nassau, somewhat less so on Grand Bahama. You'll find dentists on Great Abaco Island, at Marsh Harbour, at Treasure Cay, and on Eleuthera. There aren't dentists on some of the remote islands, especially those in the Southern Bahamas, but hotel staff should know where to send you for emergencies.
Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; tel. 716/754-4883, or 416/652-0137 in Canada; www.iamat.org) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local English-speaking doctors. The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (tel. 800/394-1945; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety. The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad. You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org).
Healthy Travels to You
The following government websites offer health-related travel advice:
Common Ailments
Exposure to the Sun -- Getting too much sun can be a real issue in The Bahamas. You must, of course, take the usual precautions you would anywhere against sunburn and sunstroke. Your time in the sun should be wisely limited for the first few days until you become accustomed to the more intense rays of the Bahamian sun. Also bring and use strong UVA/UVB sunblock products.
What To Do If You Get Sick Away From Home
In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need. But double-check; you may want to buy travel medical insurance instead. Bring your insurance ID card with you wherever you travel.
If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your departure. Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels -- otherwise, they won't make it through airport security. Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist doesn't know the brand name.
For travel abroad, you may have to pay medical costs upfront and be reimbursed later.
Staying Safe
When going to Nassau (New Providence), Cable Beach, Paradise Island, or Freeport/Lucaya, exercise the same caution you would if visiting Miami. Whatever you do, if people peddling drugs approach you, steer clear of them.
Crime is increasing, and visitors should use caution and good judgment when visiting The Bahamas. While most criminal incidents take place in a part of Nassau not usually frequented by tourists (the "Over-the-Hill" area south of downtown), crime and violence have moved into more upscale tourist and residential areas.
Women, especially, should take caution if walking alone on the streets of Nassau after dark, particularly if those streets appear to be deserted.
In the last year, the U.S. Embassy has received several reports of sexual assaults, including some against teenage girls. Most assaults have been perpetrated against intoxicated young women, some of whom were reportedly drugged. To minimize the potential for sexual assault, the embassy recommends that young women stay in groups, consume alcohol in moderation, and not accept rides or drinks from strangers.
Pickpockets (often foreigners) work the crowded casino floors of both Paradise Beach and Cable Beach. See that your wallet, money, and valuables are well secured.
Travelers should avoid walking alone after dark or in isolated areas, and avoid placing themselves in situations in which they are alone with strangers. Be cautious on deserted areas of beaches at all hours. Don't leave valuables such as cameras and purses lying unattended on the beach while you go for a swim.
If you're driving a rental car, always make sure your car door is locked, and never leave possessions in view.
Hotel guests should always lock their doors and should never leave valuables unattended, especially on beaches. Visitors should store passport/identity documents, airline tickets, credit cards, and extra cash in hotel safes. Avoid wearing expensive jewelry, particularly Rolex watches, which criminals have specifically targeted. Use only clearly marked taxis and make a note of the license plate number for your records.
You're less likely to be mugged or robbed in the Out Islands, where life is generally more peaceful. There are some hotels there that, even today, don't have locks on the doors.
The loss or theft of a passport overseas should be reported to the local police and the nearest embassy or consulate. A lost or stolen birth certificate and/or driver's license generally cannot be replaced outside the United States. U.S. citizens may refer to the Department of State's pamphlets, A Safe Trip Abroad and Tips for Travelers to the Caribbean, for ways to promote a trouble-free journey. The pamphlets are available by mail from the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402; via the Internet at www.gpoaccess.gov/index.html; or via the Bureau of Consular Affairs home page at www.travel.state.gov.
American Express -- Representing American Express in The Bahamas is Destinatinos, 303 Shirley St. (between Charlotte and Parliament sts.), Nassau (tel. 242/322-2931). Hours are 9am to 5pm Monday through Friday. The travel department is also open Saturday 9am to 1pm. If you present a personal check and an Amex card, you can buy traveler's checks here.
Area Code -- The area code for The Bahamas is 242.
Business Hours -- In Nassau, Cable Beach, and Freeport/Lucaya, commercial banking hours are 9:30am to 3pm Monday through Thursday, 9:30am to 5pm on Friday. Hours are likely to vary widely in the Out Islands. Ask at your hotel. Most government offices are open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, and most shops are open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5pm.
Camera & Film -- Purchasing film in Nassau/Paradise Island or Freeport/Lucaya is relatively easy, if a little expensive. But stock up if you're going to the Out Islands and need a special kind.
Drug Laws -- Importing, possessing, or dealing unlawful drugs, including marijuana, is a serious offense in The Bahamas, with heavy penalties. Customs officers may at their discretion conduct body searches for drugs or other contraband goods.
Drugstores -- Nassau and Freeport are amply supplied with pharmacies. However, if you're traveling in the Out Islands, it is best to carry your prescribed medication with you, since pharmacies are harder to find.
Electricity -- Electricity is normally 120 volts, 60 cycles, AC. American appliances are fully compatible; British or European appliances will need both converters and adapters.
Embassies & Consulates -- The U.S. Embassy is on 42 Queen St., P.O. Box N-8197, Nassau (tel. 242/322-1181), and the Canadian consulate is on Shirley Street Shopping Plaza, Nassau (tel. 242/393-2123). The British High Commission is located in Kingston, Jamaica, at 28 Trafalgar Rd. (tel. 876/510-0700).
Emergencies -- Throughout most of The Bahamas, the number to call for a medical, dental, or hospital emergency is tel. 911. In the Out Islands, the number is tel. 919. To report a fire, however, call tel. 411.
Holidays -- Public holidays observed in The Bahamas are New Year's Day, Good Friday, Easter Sunday, Easter Monday, Whitmonday (7 weeks after Easter), Labour Day (the first Fri in June), Independence Day (July 10), Emancipation Day (the first Mon in Aug), Discovery Day (Oct 12), Christmas, and Boxing Day (the day after Christmas). When a holiday falls on Saturday or Sunday, stores and offices are usually closed on the following Monday.
Hospitals -- In Nassau, Princess Margaret Hospital (tel. 242/322-2861), and in Freeport, Rand Memorial (tel. 242/352-6735).
Internet Access -- Access is limited on the islands, but it can be obtained at Cybercafe, in the Mall at Marathon in Nassau (tel. 242/394-6254), or in Freeport at CyberClub at Seventeen Center (tel. 242/351-4560). Web access is increasingly common at hotels in The Bahamas -- even in the Out Islands, you can usually access the Web. But if this issue is especially important to you, check with specific accommodations before booking. Also see "Online Traveler's Toolbox" and "Staying Connected," earlier.
Language -- In The Bahamas, locals speak English, but sometimes with a marked accent that provides the clue to their ancestry -- African, Irish, or Scottish, for example.
Liquor Laws -- Liquor is sold in liquor stores and various convenience stores; it's readily available at all hours, though not sold on Sundays. The legal drinking age is 18.
Lost & Found -- Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discover your wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest police precinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emergency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may be able to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/847-2911. American Express cardholders and traveler's check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309. For other credit cards, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212.
If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks and American Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to you via Western Union (tel. 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).
Mail -- You'll need Bahamian (not U.S.) postage stamps to send postcards and letters. Most of the kiosks selling postcards also sell the stamps you'll need to mail them, so you probably won't need to visit the post office. Sending a postcard or an airmail letter (up to 1/2 oz. in weight) from The Bahamas to anywhere outside its borders (including the U.S., Canada, and the U.K.) costs 65� (34p), with another charge for each additional half-ounce of weight.
Mail to and from the Out Islands is sometimes slow. Airmail may go by air to Nassau and by boat to its final destination. If a resort has a U.S. or Nassau address, it is preferable to use it.
Newspapers & Magazines -- Three newspapers are circulated in Nassau and Freeport: the Nassau Guardian -- (www.thenassauguardian.com), the Tribune, -- and the Freeport News. -- Circulation in the Out Islands is limited and likely to be slow. You can find such papers as the New York Times, -- the Wall Street Journal, USA Today, -- the Miami Herald, Times of London, -- and Daily Telegraph -- at newsstands in your hotel and elsewhere in Nassau.
Passports -- Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.
For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.smartraveller.gov.au.
For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).
For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a €12 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/494-4700), or at most main post offices.
For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.
For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-year passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency, or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.
For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.
Pets -- You'll have to get a valid import permit to bring any animal into The Bahamas. Application for such a permit must be made in writing, accompanied by a $10 (�5.30) processing fee and a $5 (�2.65) fax fee, to the Director of Agriculture, Department of Agriculture, P.O. Box N-3028, Nassau, The Bahamas (tel. 242/325-7502), at least 4 weeks in advance.
Police -- Dial tel. 911. In the Out Islands, the number is tel. 919.
Taxes -- Departure tax is $15 ($18 from Grand Bahama Island) for visitors ages 7 and up. An 8% tax is imposed on hotel bills; otherwise, there is no sales tax in The Bahamas.
Telephones -- Although some of the Out Islands are still difficult to reach by phone, direct long-distance dialing is available between North America and Nassau, Grand Bahama, the Abacos, Andros, the Berry Islands, Bimini, Eleuthera, Harbour Island, Spanish Wells, the Exumas, and Stella Maris on Long Island.
To call The Bahamas:
1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.
2. Dial the country code 242.
3. Dial the seven-digit local number.
To make international calls: To make international calls from The Bahamas, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.
For local calls within The Bahamas: Simply dial the seven-digit number. To call from one island to another within The Bahamas, dial 1-242 and then the seven-digit local number.
For directory assistance: Dial tel. 916 if you're looking for a number inside The Bahamas, and dial 0 for numbers to all other countries.
For operator assistance: To reach an international or domestic operator within The Bahamas, dial 0. There is no distinction made in The Bahamas between the two types of operators.
Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 881 within The Bahamas are toll-free. However, calling a normally toll-free number within the United States (that is, one beginning with 800, 887, or 888) usually involves a charge within The Bahamas. In fact, it usually costs the same as an overseas call unless the merchant has made arrangements with the local telephone authorities. Note: -- Major airlines generally maintain toll-free 800, 887, or 888 provisions for calls made to them within The Bahamas. If you dial what you think is a toll-free phone number and it ends up costing the long-distance rate, an automated recording will inform you of this fact. In some cases, the recording will suggest a local toll-free alternative -- usually one beginning with 881.
To reach the major international services of AT&T, dial tel. 800/CALL-ATT, or head for any phone with AT&T or USA Direct marked on the side of the booth. Picking up the handset will connect you with an AT&T operator. These phones are often positioned beside cruise-ship docks to help passengers disembarking on shore leave for the day. MCI can be reached at tel. 800/888-8000.
Note that the old coin-operated phones are still prevalent in The Bahamas and still swallow coins. Each local call costs 25� (15p); you can use either Bahamian or U.S. quarters. Those old phones, however, are gradually being replaced by phones that use calling cards (debit cards), similar in appearance to a credit card, that come in denominations of $5, $10, $20, and $50. They can be bought from any office of BATELCO (Bahamas Telephone Co.). BATELCO's main branch is on Kennedy Drive, Nassau (tel. 242/302-7008), although a popular local branch lies in the heart of Nassau, on East Street off Bay Street.
Time Zone -- Eastern Standard Time is used throughout The Bahamas, and daylight saving time is observed in the summer.
Tipping -- Many establishments add a service charge, but it's customary to leave something extra if service has been especially fine. If you're not sure whether service has been included in your bill, don't be shy -- ask.
Bellboys and porters, at least in the expensive hotels, expect a tip of $1 (55p) per bag. It's also customary to tip your maid at least $2 (�1.05) per day -- more if she or he has performed special services such as getting a shirt or blouse laundered. Most service personnel, including taxi drivers, waiters, and the like, expect 15% (20% in deluxe restaurants).
Useful Phone Numbers -- Sources of information include:
U.S. Dept. of State Travel Advisory: tel. 202/647-5225 (manned 24 hr.)
U.S. Passport Agency: tel. 202/647-0518
U.S. Centers for Disease Control International Traveler's Hotline: tel. 404/332-4559
Water -- Technically, tap water is drinkable throughout The Bahamas. But we almost always opt for bottled. Resorts tend to filter and chlorinate tap water more aggressively than other establishments; elsewhere, bottled water is available at stores and supermarkets, and tastes better than that from a tap. On many of the Out Islands, rainfall is the main source of water -- drink bottled water there.
Weddings -- The bride and groom must both be in The Bahamas at the moment they apply for the $100 (�53) wedding license here. If both are single and U.S. citizens, a declaration certifying this fact must be sworn before a consul at the American Embassy in Nassau. The fee is $55 (�29) per person; you'll need to appear in person with ID such as a passport (and, if applicable, proof of divorce). If all of these requirements are met, you can then get married after staying for 24 hours in The Bahamas. No blood test is necessary. Contact the Registrar General at P.O. Box N-532, Nassau, The Bahamas (tel. 242/322-3316), for more details.
It's always advisable to bring money in a variety of forms on a vacation: a mix of cash, credit cards, and traveler's checks. You should also exchange enough petty cash to cover airport incidentals, tipping, and transportation to your hotel before you leave home, or withdraw money upon arrival at an airport ATM.
In many international destinations, ATMs offer the best exchange rates. Avoid exchanging money at commercial exchange bureaus and hotels, which often have the highest transaction fees.
Currency
The currency is the Bahamian dollar (B$1), pegged to the U.S. dollar so that they're always equivalent. (In fact, U.S. dollars are accepted widely throughout The Bahamas.) There is no restriction on bringing foreign currency into The Bahamas. Most large hotels and stores accept traveler's checks, but you may have trouble using a personal check. It's a good idea to exchange enough money to cover airport incidentals and transportation to your hotel before you leave home.
You can change currencies at a local American Express (tel. 800/807-6233; www.americanexpress.com) or Thomas Cook (tel. 800/223-7373; www.thomascook.com), or at your bank.
Be sure to carry some small bills or loose change when traveling. Petty cash will come in handy for tipping and public transportation. Consider keeping the change separate from your larger bills so that it's readily accessible and you'll be less of a target for theft. In general, prices are about the same as in urban America, but they are less expensive than costs in the U.K. Food is often more expensive, however, since so much of it has to be imported.
ATMs
The easiest way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine). The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Know your personal identification number (PIN) and your daily withdrawal limit. Ask your card carrier if your current PIN works in the Bahamas, particularly in the Out Islands. Every card is different, but some need a four-digit rather than a six-digit PIN to withdraw cash abroad.
Many banks impose a fee every time a card is used at a different bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5/�2.65 or more) than for domestic ones (rarely more than $1.50/80p). On top of this, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. To compare banks' ATM fees within the U.S., use www.bankrate.com. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.
You can also get cash advances on your credit card at an ATM. Credit card companies do try to protect themselves from theft by limiting the funds someone can withdraw outside their home country, so notify your credit card company before you leave home. And keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time.
On New Providence Island and Paradise Island, there are plenty of ATMs, including one at the Nassau International Airport. There are far fewer ATMs on Grand Bahama Island (Freeport/Lucaya), but those that are here are strategically located -- including ones at the airport and the casino (of course).
Very few ATMs are in the Out Islands. If you must have cash on your Out Island trip, make arrangements before you leave Nassau or Freeport; outside of Freeport, we counted just seven ATMs in the entire remaining Out Islands, including the one at the post office in Marsh Harbour. This situation is fluid, however, and more ATMs may be added in the future.
Credit Cards
Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, but high fees make credit-card cash advances a pricey way to get cash. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).
Traveler's Checks
You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.
The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or 800/221-7282 for card holders -- this number accepts collect calls, offers service in several foreign languages, and exempts Amex gold and platinum cardholders from the 1% fee.); Visa (tel. 800/732-1322) -- AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378; and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920).
Be sure to keep a record of the traveler's checks' serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.
American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, useful if you're traveling to one country or to the euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.
Another option is the new prepaid traveler's check cards, reloadable cards that work much like debit cards but aren't linked to your checking account. The American Express Travelers Cheque Card, for example, requires a minimum deposit, sets a maximum balance, and has a one-time issuance fee of $14.95. You can withdraw money from an ATM (for a fee of $2.50 per transaction, not including bank fees), and the funds can be purchased in dollars, euros, or pounds. If you lose the card, your available funds will be refunded within 24 hours.
The Weather
The temperature in The Bahamas averages between 75?F and 85?F (24?C-29?C) in both winter and summer, although it can get chilly in the early morning and at night. The Bahamian winter is usually like a perpetual late spring -- naturally, the high season for North Americans rushing to escape snow and ice. Summer brings broiling hot sun and humidity. There's a much greater chance of rain during the summer and fall.
The Hurricane Season
The curse of Bahamian weather, the hurricane season, lasts (officially) from June 1 to November 30. But there is no cause for panic. More tropical cyclones pound the U.S. mainland than The Bahamas. Hurricanes are actually fairly infrequent here, and when one does come, satellite forecasts generally give adequate advance warning so that precautions can be taken.
If you're heading for The Bahamas during the hurricane season, you might want to visit the National Weather Service at www.nws.noaa.gov.
For an online 5-day forecast anytime, check the Weather Channel at www.weather.com (for free!).
Avoiding Spring Break
Throughout March and into mid-April, it's spring-break season in the Caribbean for vacationing college and high school students. Expect beach parties, sports events, and musical entertainment; if the idea of hundreds of partying fraternity kids doesn't appeal to you, beware. When you make your reservations, ask if your hotel is planning to host any big groups of kids.
The "Season"
In The Bahamas, hotels charge their highest prices during the peak winter period from mid-December to mid-April, when visitors fleeing from cold north winds flock to the islands. Winter is the driest season.
If you plan to visit during the winter, try to make reservations at least 2 to 3 months in advance. At some hotels, it's impossible to book accommodations for Christmas and the month of February without even more lead time.
Saving Money in the Off Season
The Bahamas is a year-round destination. The islands' "off season" runs from late spring to late fall, when tolerable temperatures prevail throughout most of the region. Trade winds ensure comfortable days and nights, even in accommodations without air-conditioning. Although the noonday sun may raise temperatures to uncomfortable levels, cool breezes usually make the morning, late afternoon, and evening more pleasant here than in many parts of the U.S. mainland.
Dollar for dollar, you'll spend less money by renting a summer house or fully equipped unit in The Bahamas than you would on Cape Cod, Fire Island, Laguna Beach, or the coast of Maine.
The off season -- roughly from mid-April to mid-December (rate schedules vary from hotel to hotel) -- amounts to a summer sale. In most cases, hotel rates are slashed from 20% to a startling 60%. It's a bonanza for cost-conscious travelers, especially families who like to go on vacations together. In the chapters ahead, we'll spell out in dollars the specific amounts hotels charge during the off season.
Other Off-Season Advantages -- Although The Bahamas may appear inviting in the winter to those who live in northern climates, your trip may be more enjoyable if you go in the off season. Here's why:
Off-Season Disadvantages -- Let's not paint too rosy a picture. Although the advantages of off-season travel far outweigh the disadvantages, there are nevertheless some drawbacks to traveling here in summer:
Entry Requirements
Passports -- To enter The Bahamas, citizens of Britain and Canada coming in as visitors must bring a passport to demonstrate proof of citizenship. Under new Homeland Security regulations that started December 31, 2005, U.S. travelers must have a valid passport to re-enter the United States by January 1, 2008. During the life of this edition (2007), Americans can -- perhaps -- get by with a voter registration card or an original birth certificate plus a government-issued photo ID. But since rules are in a state of flux, there could be delays upon re-entering the U.S. Therefore, we recommend that all Frommer's readers carry a passport for travel in 2007.
Onward or return tickets must be shown to immigration officials in The Bahamas. Citizens of other countries, including Australia, Ireland, and New Zealand, should carry a valid passport.
For information on how to get a passport, go to "Passports" in the "Fast Facts: The Bahamas" section of this chapter -- the websites listed provide downloadable passport applications as well as the current fees for processing passport applications. For an up-to-date, country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the "Foreign Entry Requirement" Web page of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov.
Visas -- The Commonwealth of The Bahamas does not require visas. On entry to The Bahamas, you'll be given an Immigration Card to complete and sign. The card has a carbon copy that you must keep until departure, at which time it must be turned in. You'll also have to pay a departure tax before you can exit the country.
Customs
What You Can Bring Into The Bahamas -- Bahamian Customs allows you to bring in 200 cigarettes, or 50 cigars, or 1 pound of tobacco, plus 1 quart of spirits (hard liquor). You can also bring in items classified as "personal effects" and all the money you wish.
What You Can Take Home from The Bahamas -- Visitors leaving Nassau or Freeport/Lucaya for most U.S. destinations clear U.S. Customs & Border Protection before departing The Bahamas. Charter companies can make special arrangements with the Nassau or Freeport flight services and U.S. Customs & Border Protection for preclearance. No further formalities are required upon arrival in the United States once the preclearance has taken place in Nassau or Freeport.
Collect receipts for all purchases you make in The Bahamas. Note: If a merchant suggests giving you a false receipt, misstating the value of the goods, beware -- the merchant might be an informer to U.S. Customs. You must also declare all gifts received while abroad.
If you purchased an item during an earlier trip abroad, carry proof that you have already paid Customs duty on the item at the time of your previous reentry. To be extra careful, compile a list of expensive carry-on items and ask a U.S. Customs agent to stamp your list at the airport before your departure.
U.S. Citizens -- For specifics on what you can bring back and the corresponding fees, download the invaluable free pamphlet Know Before You Go online at www.cbp.gov. (Click on "Travel" and then click on "Know Before You Go.") Or contact the U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 877/287-8667), and request the pamphlet.
Canadian Citizens -- For a clear summary of Canadian rules, write for the booklet I Declare, issued by the Canada Border Services Agency (tel. 800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca).
U.K. Citizens -- For information, contact HM Revenue & Customs at tel. 0845/010-9000 (from outside the U.K., 02920/501-261), or consult their website at www.hmrc.gov.uk.
Australian Citizens -- A helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs Service at tel. 1300/363-263, or log on to www.customs.gov.au.
New Zealand Citizens -- Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand Customs Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs Service, The Customhouse, 17-21 Whitmore St., Box 2218, Wellington (tel. 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).
For specific events, you can call your nearest branch of The Bahamas Tourist Office at tel. 800/BAHAMAS or check their website.
January
Junkanoo. This Mardi Gras-style festival begins 2 or 3 hours before dawn on New Year's Day. Throngs of cavorting, costumed figures prance through Nassau, Freeport/Lucaya, and the Out Islands. Jubilant men, women, and children wear elaborate headdresses and festive apparel as they celebrate their African heritage with music and dance. Mini-Junkanoos, in which visitors can participate, are regular events. Local tourist offices will advise the best locations to see the festivities. You can also call tel. 242/324-1714. January 1.
New Year's Day Sailing Regatta, Nassau and Paradise Island. Three dozen or more sailing sloops, ranging from 5 to 8.5m (16-28 ft.), converge off Montagu Bay in a battle for bragging rights organized by The Bahamas Boat Owners Association. For information, contact the Regatta Desk at the Ministry of Youth, Sports & Culture (tel. 242/325-9370). Early January.
Annual Bahamas Wahoo Championships, Berry Islands. Anglers from all over America take up the tough challenge to bait one of the fastest fish in the ocean, reaching speeds up to 70 mph. This fete takes place at Chub Cay Marina & Resort (tel. 800/662-8555 or 242/367-2158). Mid-January.
February
The Mid-Winter Wahoo, Bimini. The Bimini Big Game Resort & Marina draws Hemingway look-alikes and other anglers to this winter event that is heavily attended by Floridians. For more information, call tel. 800/737-1007 or contact the tournament director, Leonard Stuart, at the Bimini Tourist Office at tel. 242/347-3539. Early February.
Farmer's Cay Festival. This festival is a rendezvous for yachtsmen cruising the Exuma Islands and a homecoming for the people of Farmer's Cay, Exuma. Boat excursions will depart Nassau at Potter's Cay for the festival at 8pm on Friday, then return to Nassau at 8pm on Saturday from the Farmer's Cay Dock. For information contact Terry Bain in Little Farmer's Cay, Exuma, at tel. 242/355-4006, or the Exuma Tourist Office at tel. 242/336-2430. First Friday and Saturday in February.
March
Bacardi Billfish Tournament, Freeport. A prestigious weeklong tournament attracting the who's who of deep-sea fishing. Headquarters is the Port Lucaya Resort & Yacht Club. For more information, call tel. 800/582-2921 or 242/373-9090. Mid-March.
April
Bahamas Family Island Regatta, George Town, the Exumas. Featuring Bahamian craft sloops, these celebrated boat races are held in Elizabeth Harbour. There's also a variety of onshore activities including basketball, a skipper's party, and a Junkanoo parade. Call tel. 242/336-2430. Usually third week of April.
Bahamas Billfish Championship. This annual event is divided into four competitions, taking place at four different venues and times, spanning April to June. Anglers can fish any and all of the tournaments taking place at Marsh Harbour (third week of Apr), Harbour Island (first week of May), Spanish Cay (mid-May), and Treasure Cay (first week to second week of June). Since dates vary, contact the Bahamas Billfish Championship at Two Oakland Blvd., Suite 195, Hollywood, FL 33020 (tel. 888/303-2242 or 954/920-5577). April to June.
Bahamas White Marlin Open, the Abacos. This is a rendezvous off Abaco drawing anglers seeking an action-packed billfish tournament. The headquarters is the Abaco Beach Resort & Marina. For more information, call tel. 954/920-5577 or 242/367-2158. Dates vary.
May
Long Island Regatta, Salt Pond, Long Island. This even sees some 40 to 50 sailing sloops from throughout The Bahamas compete in three classes for trophies and cash prizes. Onshore, dancing to indigenous "rake 'n' scrape" music, sporting events, and local food specialties for sale make for a carnival-like atmosphere. For more information, call tel. 242/394-1535. Late May.
June
Eleuthera Pineapple Festival, Gregory Town, Eleuthera. This celebration devoted to the island's succulent pineapple features a Junkanoo parade, craft displays, dancing, a pineapple recipe contest, tours of pineapple farms, and a "pineathalon" -- a .5km (1/4-mile) swim, 5.5km (3 1/2-mile) run, and 6.5km (4-mile) bike ride. For more information, call tel. 242/332-2142. First week of June.
July
Annual Racing Time in Abaco, Marsh Harbour. This weeklong regatta features a series of five sailboat races in the Sea of Abaco. Onshore festivities include nightly entertainment, cocktail parties, beach picnics, cultural activities, and a grand finale party. For registration forms and information, contact Abaco Tourist office at tel. 242/367-3067. Early July.
Independence Week. Independence celebrations are marked throughout the islands by festivities, parades, and fireworks. It all culminates on Independence Day. July 10.
Bahamas Summer Boating Fling/Flotilla. Boating enthusiasts and yachters make the 5-day crossing from Florida to The Bahamas (Port Lucaya's marina on Grand Bahama Island) in a flotilla of boats guided by a lead boat. All "flings" depart from the Radisson Bahia Mar Resort & Yacht Center in Fort Lauderdale. For more information, contact the Bahamas Tourism Center in Florida at tel. 954/236-9292. End of July to beginning of August.
August
Emancipation Day. The first Monday in August commemorates the emancipation of slaves in 1834. A highlight of this holiday is an early-morning "Junkanoo Rushout" starting at 4am in Fox Hill Village in Nassau, followed by an afternoon of "cook-outs," cultural events such as climbing a greased pole and the plaiting of the Maypole. First Monday in August.
Cat Island Regatta, Southern Bahamas. Sleepy Cat Island comes alive in the weekend of festive events, including sloop races, live "rake 'n' scrape" bands, quadrille dancing, old-fashioned contests and games, and local cuisine. Contact the Regatta Desk at tel. 242/502-0600 in Nassau. Early August.
September
All Abaco Sailing Regatta. Local sailing sloops rendezvous at Treasure Cay Harbour for a series of championship races and onshore festivities. Contact the Regatta Desk in Nassau at tel. 242/502-0600 or in Abaco at tel. 242/367-3067. Late September.
October
Discovery Day. The New World landing of Christopher Columbus, traditionally said to be the island of San Salvador, is celebrated throughout The Bahamas. Naturally, San Salvador has a parade every year on October 12.
North Eleuthera Sailing Regatta. Native sailing sloops take to the waters of North Eleuthera, Harbour Island, and Spanish Wells in a weekend of championship races. For information contact the Eleuthera Tourist Office at tel. 242/332-2142. Mid-October.
Great Bahamas Seafood and Heritage Festival, Heritage Village, Arawak Cay. This October festival is a combination of the Great Seafood Festival and Heritage festival. A cultural affair, it showcases authentic Bahamian cuisine, traditional music, and storytelling. For more information, exact time, and schedule of events, contact the Ministry of Tourism at tel. 242/302-2072.
November
Guy Fawkes Day. The best celebrations are in Nassau. Nighttime parades through the streets are held on many of the islands, culminating in the hanging and burning of Guy Fawkes, an effigy of the British malefactor who was involved in the Gunpowder Plot of 1605 in London. It usually takes place around November 5, but check with island tourist offices.
Bimini Big Game Fishing Club All Wahoo Tournament. Anglers take up the tough challenge of baiting one of the fastest fishes in the ocean. Headquarters is the Bimini Sands Resort & Marina. For information, contact tel. 242/373-3500 or 242/347-3407. Mid-November.
Annual One Bahamas Music & Heritage Festival. This 3-day celebration is staged at both Nassau and Paradise Island to celebrate national unity. Highlights include concerts featuring top Bahamian performing artists. Events include "fun walks" on the island and other activities. For more information, contact the Nassau/Paradise Island Office at the Ministry of Tourism, tel. 242/356-5216, ext. 4100. Last week of November.
December
Junkanoo Boxing Day. High-energy Junkanoo parades and celebrations are held throughout the islands on December 26. Many of these activities are repeated on New Year's Day. December 26.