So many islands, so little time. With all the tropical paradises you could visit, why would you pick Aruba for your Caribbean vacation?

Well, there's the reliably near-perfect weather. If you have only a week away from the job, why not guarantee yourself 7 days of ideal tanning conditions -- unwaveringly sunny skies, warm temperatures, and cooling breezes. And because the island's more of a desert than a rainforest, the humidity's low and it hardly ever rains. Hurricanes? Schmurricanes. There's rarely one within hundreds of miles. Aruba is far south of the tropical-storm belt.

You like beaches? Aruba's got beaches, some of the best in the Caribbean . . . in the world, for that matter. The photos only look as if they've been doctored. What you see is what you get: miles of white, sugary sand; warm, gentle surf; turquoise and aqua seas; and plenty of space.

When you tire of lolling on the beach, there's scuba diving, snorkeling, great windsurfing, and all the other watersports you expect from a sun-and-sea vacation. On land, you can golf, ride a horse, hike, or drive an all-terrain vehicle over the island's wild and woolly outback. Away from the beach, Aruba is a desert island full of cacti, iguanas, and strange boulder formations. Contrasting sharply with the resort area's serene beaches, the north coast features craggy limestone cliffs, sand dunes, and crashing breakers.

And such nice places to stay. You can choose from luxury resorts, all-inclusives, cozy boutique hotels, and modest budget spots. They're all well maintained and chock-full of bells and whistles to meet the whims of most travelers. With all the package tours available, they can be surprisingly affordable, too.

If you're a foodie, you may be surprised at how well you can eat in Aruba. Unlike the generally standard fare in most of the Caribbean, Aruba's culinary offerings are diverse, inventive, and often very good.

After the sun sets, there's plenty to do besides eat. You can try your luck at one of the island's dozen casinos, take in a live Vegas-style show, or listen to some amazing live music, including Latin jazz and Caribbean sounds such as the island's own Tumba music. Bars, clubs, booze cruises, you name it -- if you're looking for a party, you'll find it.

You'll find the overwhelming majority of Arubans to be genuinely friendly and welcoming. Sure, the island's totally dependent on tourism, but nobody learns to be this nice. With little history of racial or cultural conflicts, the island has no cause for animosity. As the license plates say, it's "One Happy Island." And, although Dutch is the official language, almost everyone speaks English. You'll also hear Spanish and Papiamento, the local tongue (a mix of several European, African, and Native American languages), now recognized as an official language, along with Dutch.

While safety is always a concern, Aruba enjoys one of the region's lowest crime rates, fueled in part by high employment. Though it's not uncommon to see solo senior tourists as well as solo 20-something women, it's always safer -- not to mention more fun -- to travel with a friend.

Enough of the good points: What's the downside? Well, if you're looking to stay in an old, converted, family-run sugar mill or immerse yourself in rich colonial history or pre-Columbian culture, you could do better elsewhere. From day one, Aruba's been pretty much of a backwater. It's still part of the Netherlands, so there's a Dutch influence, which adds a slight European flavor. A few small museums highlight the island's past and some centuries-old indigenous rock glyphs and paintings, but nobody visits Aruba for culture or history.

The people who do visit, though, come back. Aruba has the highest repeat-visitor rate in the Caribbean; the highest hotel-occupancy figures, too. Honeymooners, families, and couples of all ages and types fill the resorts during the winter high season and in the traditionally quieter summer months as well. More than 70% come from the United States, and a fair number hail from Canada. Others come from Holland and South America, especially nearby Venezuela and Colombia.

The bottom line? Aruba's determined to make sure you have a good time. It's a great place to unwind, and few islands work as hard to make you feel as special and pampered. You'll learn your first Papiamento phrase when you arrive -- bon bini (welcome!). The last words from your lips as you board your plane back home will probably be in the local dialect, too -- masha danki, Aruba (thank you, Aruba).

Aruba is a tiny island. Only 32km (20 miles) long and 9.7km (6 miles) across at its widest point, it's slightly larger than Washington, D.C. (70 sq. miles). It's the westernmost of the Dutch ABC islands -- Aruba, Bonaire, and Cura�ao -- and less than 20 miles north of Venezuela.

In a place as small as Aruba, it's easy to get your bearings, especially since just about everything for tourists centers on the two biggest beaches. Remember Mercury, the messenger god from Roman mythology? Aruba's shaped like his winged foot: toes to the east, heel to the west. Aruba's capital and largest city, Oranjestad (pronounced "oh-rahn-juh-stahd" or "oh-rahn-yay-stahd"), is on the island's southern coast, pretty far to the west, where Mercury's heel would be. The island's hotels stretch along the back-to-back shores of Eagle Beach and Palm Beach, a couple of miles west of Oranjestad, or up the god's Achilles' tendon. One of the island's landmarks, the California Lighthouse, stands at the wing on Mercury's foot, while San Nicolas, once Aruba's largest city and home of the island's oil refinery, steps on his toes. Between Oranjestad and San Nicolas on the south coast, Savaneta is Aruba's oldest town and major fishing center.

If you're like most visitors, you'll be staying in one of three areas: in Oranjestad, in the Low-Rise hotel area along Eagle Beach, or a little farther from town in the High-Rise hotel area on Palm Beach. The three locations have distinct atmospheres, so where you stay will determine the tone of your vacation. Would you rather be in the city or at the seaside? Are casinos and nightclubs important, or do you prefer quiet strolls along the beach? Are you looking for a casual beach town or a glamorous resort strip?

Let's start in the thick of the action. Oranjestad is Aruba's only town of any size or sophistication. If you want an "urban" environment with a variety of restaurants, nightclubs, and casinos, this is the place for you. The entire island has fewer than 100,000 residents, but most seem to live or work around the capital. Its waterfront bustles with cruise ships, yachts, fishing boats, and cargo carriers. Fueled by the boutiques, restaurants, bars, and casinos radiating from the docks, vehicular and pedestrian traffic in town is heavy much of the day and night. Contributing to the congestion, Arubans cruise the main boulevard to see and be seen, giving the strip an American Graffiti flavor. Much of the architecture combines Dutch gables and baroque ornamentation with such Caribbean colors as pistachio, ochre, pink, and aqua. The result is a sun-drenched gingerbread confection with a touch of theme-park squeaky cleanliness. Walk 5 or 6 blocks away from the waterfront, though, and Oranjestad becomes a nondescript, workaday town with neighborhoods ranging from tony to shabby. Staying in town doesn't necessarily mean sacrificing beach time: The best beaches are only minutes away, and one hotel (The Renaissance) even has its own nearby island replete with private beaches, a restaurant and bar, a spa, and a tennis court.

In sharp contrast to Oranjestad, but only a 20-minute walk west, the Low-Rise hotel area feels like a laid-back summer beach town. This district stretches over several contiguous strands with such names as Bushiri, Druif, Manchebo, and Eagle, but it's hard to see where one ends and another begins, and most people refer to the entire area as Eagle Beach. As the Low-Rise name implies, the dozen or so complexes here seldom climb above three or four stories. Some are directly on the beach; others are located across a relatively sleepy road. The small boutique hotels, quiet timeshares, and sprawling resorts (including several all-inclusives) attract a diverse group of people. A couple of the smaller hotels cater to couples, while the timeshares have a generally quieter, older clientele (with kids and grandkids appearing at certain times of the year). The all-inclusives and larger hotels boast all kinds of guests with an especially large number of families and children. Many apartment-style accommodations feature full kitchens, living rooms, and guest rooms, facilities attractive to families and groups of friends who want to save a bit by eating in from time to time (large supermarkets are a $6 taxi ride or 15-min. walk away). But plenty of restaurants are in the area, and a couple of large casinos too. Low-Risers are quick to point out that Eagle Beach is wider, quieter, and less crowded than Palm Beach, and they prefer the comfortable, casual ambience.

On the flip side, the High-Rise area begins about a quarter of a mile after Eagle Beach ends. Stretching along Palm Beach, this strip of glitzy high-rise resorts is Aruba's Waikiki. The dozen or so hotels here tend to be swanky, self-contained resorts that ramble over acres of lushly landscaped grounds. Most boast splashy casinos, numerous restaurants and bars, and endless amenities and services. Some hotels here are definitely upscale, and others are perfectly middle-class: Whether you're a big cheese or small potato, there's a place here to suit your budget. These hotels, unlike the Low-Risers, are full-fledged glamour destinations. And if you're totally focused on sun time, you'll appreciate that all but a couple of the resorts are directly on the beach (the others are just across the street). The area also offers more places to eat, drink, and gamble, and its piers are a hubbub of dive boats and motorized watersports. However, with the increased number of amenities and giant resorts, Palm Beach doesn't offer the Low-Rise area's beach-town simplicity, and it's comparatively crowded.

Aside from the big three, you have a couple of other options when deciding where to stay. Next to the island's championship golf course Tierra del Sol, condominiums and freestanding villas appeal to vacationers who prefer time on the links to hours on the beach. This complex looks and feels like a desert resort in Arizona, and short-term rentals are available.

For the serious budget option, a handful of motels can be found a 10- to 20-minute walk inland from the beaches. They lack the glamour of the larger resorts, but they make Aruba affordable for almost everyone.

Away from the hotels and the capital, Aruba features splendid, if modest, natural wonders, more great beaches, and a handful of authentically native towns. But more about exploring the island later in the book.

If you're like lots of folks vacationing in Aruba, you'll spend all day on the beach thinking about where to dine that night. The options are prodigious. Few places as small as Aruba can boast such a variety of quality restaurants. In fact, with the exception of the French islands and Puerto Rico, Aruba leaves most of the Caribbean in the dust.

This is due in large part to fierce competition. Most restaurateurs never stop thinking of new ways to bring you through their doors. Many add a personal touch, taking the time to chat and thank you for your visit. And most are loath to leave anyone behind, so there's usually something for vegetarians, kids, and couples celebrating special occasions (how about a romantic private room or a table on the beach?). Because some form of entertainment has become almost de rigueur, expect to be serenaded by live bands, jazz saxophonists, or a pianist. Frequent culinary competitions spur chefs to experiment and hone their skills, constantly raising the quality bar. And over the past few years, ethnic spots have burgeoned: When you're not feasting on steak, seafood, or Aruban specialties, you can try something Argentinean, French, Caribbean, Indonesian, Cuban, Italian, Belgian, Mexican, Japanese, Chinese, or Indian.

What to Wear? -- Dress is almost always casual. At many places, dinner dress is elegant casual (sundresses for women, long pants for men). A couple of restaurants, such as LeDome, enforce a "no shorts" policy.

How Much to Tip? -- Many, but not all, restaurants add a service charge, ranging from 10% to 15%, to your bill. The majority of this money is distributed among all restaurant employees, so your waiter will receive only a portion of this. If you feel your waiter or waitress has earned it, leave about 10% on the table. If no service charge is automatically added, tip 15% or 20% if the service was exceptional.

What About Reservations? -- Reservations are universally appreciated. During the high season, or for large groups, they're necessary at the most popular places. Your hotel concierge will be happy to make reservations for you.

Restaurant prices are a bit steep in Aruba, but with good reason. Almost nothing grows on the arid island, so most edibles, with the exception of some seafood, are imported. That gets to be expensive. Fruits and vegetables come primarily from the United States and Venezuela, but some make the trip from as far away as Europe. Beef is flown in from Argentina and the U.S. Portions are large, though, if that's any consolation.

Most restaurants are a $6 to $10 taxi ride from your hotel, but many are within easy walking distance of the major resorts in the High-Rise area. If you have a car, call for explicit directions: Inadequate street signs and a cabdriver's substandard navigation skills often lead to wrong turns and missed reservations. Another caveat: If you're going into Oranjestad from the hotel areas, allow yourself some time to get there. Traffic into the capital is absurd at times, and parking can be hard to find.

It used to be tough to find a restaurant that was open for lunch on Sunday, but no more. Some -- especially hotel restaurants -- even do a lavish brunch, but double-check before you set out.

Food Fairs -- The Bon Bini Festival is a folkloric, touristy show that features hokey and asynchronous dances performed by a handful of local amateur junior talents. A few arts and crafts booths and one or two trays of homemade, local food surround the makeshift bar. The show takes place year-round every Tuesday, from 6:30 to 8:30pm at Fort Zoutman in Oranjestad.

High-Rise Hotels/Palm Beach/Noord

Just inland from Palm Beach and the High-Rise hotels but virtually indistinguishable from the immediate resort area, the town of Noord is home to many popular restaurants.

Epicurean & Eclectic

The Aruba Gastronomic Association, or AGA, Salina Serca 39E, Noord (tel. 800/793-6028 in the U.S., or 297/586-1266 in Aruba; www.arubadining.com), a group of nearly 30 of the island's restaurants -- including such recommended spots as LeDome, The French Steakhouse, and Gasparito -- offers a "Dine-Around" program with three options. For $109, you get coupons good for three dinners; $177 gets you five dinners; and for $245, you can have one dinner every day of the week. Children 4 to12 pay half price; it is not recommended for children under 4. The five-course "Wine-Around" dinner costs $85 per person and includes perfectly paired wines. The coupons are good at any of AGA's member restaurants and never expire, so you can always turn in old coupons for current ones on your return trip. Each dinner includes an appetizer, main course, dessert, coffee or tea, and service charges. Lunch and dinner plans as well as custom plans are available, and $50 gift certificates can be purchased for only $45. Coupons can be purchased from AGA, or at any DePalm tour desk. You can also fill out the online fax order form at www.arubadining.com or www.aruba.com.

What's Cookin' in the ABC Islands?

Don't go home without sampling the worthwhile local cuisine. Here's some help with the menu:

Bananas hasa -- Fried plantains served as a side dish in Cura�ao.

Bitterballen -- Deep fried balls of pureed meat, popular in Cura�ao.

Empanadas -- Similar to pastechis but smaller and made with cornmeal rather than flour.

Frickendel -- Tiny deep-fried hotdogs popular in Cura�ao.

Funchi -- Cornmeal polenta.

Giambo -- A thick gumbo made with fish filets, salted beef, okra, fresh basil (yerba di hole), and shrimp.

Keshi yena -- Edam or Gouda cheese rinds stuffed with beef, chicken, fish, or shrimp, embellished with raisins, grated cheese, bread crumbs, olives, capers, and spices; created by frugal Dutch colonists who had to stretch their provisions to last until the next ship arrived, this recipe ensured that nothing would be wasted.

Kesio -- Eggy caramel custard with caramel sauce.

Pan bati -- A thick, sweet, corn bread-like pancake cut in thin wedges and served as a side.

Pastechi -- Crescent-shaped, deep-fried turnovers filled with spicy meat, shrimp, fish, or cheese; popular for breakfast and as a snack.

Ponche crema -- Creamy eggnoglike drink laced with rum and flavored with nutmeg.

Pudin di coco -- Coconut pudding made with rum and served with lime sauce.

Salsa creollo -- Red, sweet creole sauce made of tomatoes, onions, and peppers and served with fish.

Sopinan -- Soups made with salt pork or beef, whole fish, shellfish, greens, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, garlic, peppers, and spices, more common in Cura�ao.

Stoba -- Hearty stew made with chicken, beef, goat, conch, or fish.

Spend every day on the beach if you want -- but you'll miss Aruba's wilder charms. With stark windswept hills, towering cacti, and rough and rocky coasts, the outback is completely different from the posh resort areas, and worthy of exploration. The island's small enough to cover in a day or two. For a complete adventure, rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle: The most picturesque routes are rubble-strewn dirt roads; ordinary cars will do, but rugged Jeeps are better, and in the National Park they are highly recommended. The circuit around the island's northern tip -- to California Lighthouse, Alto Vista Chapel, Bushiribana Gold Smelter Ruins, and Ayo and Casibari rock formations -- is the most popular. Although less frequented, Arikok National Park, with its flora, fauna, caves, dunes, and history, is just as worthwhile. If you're not the outdoorsy type, visit Oranjestad's small museums or drive down to San Nicolas on your way to Rodger's Beach or Boca Grandi.

Guided Tours

Major tour operators conduct guided tours through the outback or around Arikok National Park. Several incorporate sightseeing with swimming and snorkeling. De Palm Tours (tel. 297/582-4400; www.depalm.com) dominates the field, with half-day and full-day excursions in air-conditioned motor coaches, four-wheel-drive vehicles, or all-terrain buggies. On the four-wheel-drive trips, you drive your own Jeep as part of a caravan led by a guide who broadcasts commentary over the radio. Competitors include ABC Aruba Tours (tel. 297/582-5600), Pelican Adventures (tel. 297/587-2302; www.pelican-aruba.com), and Wix Tours (tel. 297/582-0347; www.wixtours.com). Half-day excursions start at $55; full-day trips with lunch, refreshments, and snorkeling climb to $65.

For a bird's-eye view of the island, take a helicopter tour with Heli-Tours (tel. 297/965-5906), located at the Heli-Pad near the Renaissance Marketplace in downtown Oranjestad. A 15-minute Beach Safari to the lighthouse is $69 per person; a 30-minute tour of the entire island will set you back $109 per person.

On Your Own

If you'd like to explore at your own pace, rent a Jeep. Prices for a roofless four-wheel-drive with standard transmission start at $40 per day. Air-conditioned automatics are $60 and up. Driving around on your own is fun, but be forewarned that road signs are often small, handmade, and unnoticeable. Ask for a map: Even if it's hopelessly inaccurate -- which it will be -- a bad map's better than no map at all. If you plan to take a popular route, discreetly join a caravan or ask directions along the way. Even if you find yourself in the middle of nowhere, the island's too small to truly lose your bearings (the wind always blows from east to west). If you're more interested in sites along paved roads and don't feel like getting lost, hire a cab. The going rate is $40 per hour for a maximum of five people.

Although Aruba boasts a veritable plethora of shopping opportunities, the days of Caribbean bargains are waning. A recent sales tax has been introduced, and it may be absorbed directly into the price of merchandise or show up as a government tax on your bill. Nevertheless, the island's low 3.3% duty can make prices on certain items such as jewelry and fragrances attractive.

Dutch goods such as Delft porcelain, chocolate, and Gouda cheese are especially good buys. Items from Indonesia, another former Dutch colony, are reasonably priced, too. Although Aruban souvenirs tend toward cheesy resin casts of cunucu (farm) houses or divi divi trees, the same items, when painted by hand and crafted from bisque or pottery, can hold their own in any folk art collection. Some impressive works by Aruban artists can be viewed or purchased at the local art galleries. Skin- and hair-care products made from locally produced aloe or ostrich oil are also popular and practical. If you're looking for big-ticket items, Aruba offers the usual array of Swiss watches; German and Japanese cameras; gold and diamond jewelry; Cuban cigars; premium liquor; English and German china; Spanish porcelain; French, Swedish, and Danish crystal; and French and American fragrances. If you plan to make a major purchase, do a little research at home so you know you're getting a good deal.

The Shopping Scene

Stores accept American dollars, credit cards, and traveler's checks. They do not, however, accept currency from the Netherland Antilles. So, if you plan to go to Bonaire or Cura�ao, only exchange what you think you will spend there -- better yet, stick with U.S. dollars, which are accepted on all three islands. Because the island has just rolled out a sales tax, be sure to ask if the price marked or quoted is the total price you will pay. Shopkeepers, like most Arubans, are pleasant. Haggling is considered rude, though, so don't push your luck.

Most stores are open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 6pm; a few close for an hour at noon or 1pm. Stores in Oranjestad's malls tend to open on Sunday as well, especially if cruise ships are in port.

Parking can be a hassle in downtown Oranjestad. If the lots along the waterfront are packed, try for a space behind the Renaissance Marketplace, past the Seaport Casino. Taking a cab or the bus is easier, though, unless you plan to purchase heavy items.

Great Shopping Areas

Although the major resort hotels boast shopping arcades, Aruba's retail activity centers on Oranjestad. Half-mile-long Caya G. F. Betico Croes, better known as Main Street, is the city's major shopping venue, attracting tourists, young and fashionable Arubans, office workers, and families. Downtown also teems with contiguous shopping malls that stretch for several blocks along the harbor front. The gingerbread pastel-colored buildings are impossible to miss. Renaissance Mall and Renaissance Marketplace feature more than 130 stores, two casinos, 20 restaurants and cafes, and a movie theater. Just down the road, Royal Plaza Mall is chock-full of popular restaurants and generally upscale boutiques. Port of Call Marketplace is the first complex that cruise-ship passengers encounter on their way downtown. For late-night shopping or a temporary diversion from the slots, Alhambra Moonlight Shopping Center, adjacent to the Alhambra Casino in the Low-Rise area, features several souvenir shops, jewelry outlets, and cigar stores in an outdoor courtyard, but is somewhat depressing.

An enormous new shopping center called Paseo Herencia (Aruba's Pride) already has a few stores open on the High-Rise district's main street at press time, and is on schedule to be fully operational by the end of summer 2007. It contains a multiplex cinema, pool large enough for the Aruba synchronized swimming team (The Barracudas) to practice and perform, and will be appointed with murals and plaques to highlight the history of the island. A three-story indoor parking garage is planned, along with dozens of shops (including Nike, Lacoste, Guess, and GNC) and restaurants (such as Iguana Joe's and Moby Dick seafood restaurant).

Books

If reading on the beach is one of your favorite pastimes, bring books from home; the selection in Aruba is limited and the prices are steep.

Hello, Aloe -- So Long, Sunburn

Aruba has cultivated aloe for more than 150 years. The plant -- pronounced "ah-loh-weh" locally -- serves as a moisturizer and sunburn healer. Aruba Aloe, a local company, manufactures a wide assortment of shampoos, facial masks, creams, and gels that soothe after a day in the sun. The products are cheapest at a pharmacy or supermarket, but you can also get them at souvenir stands and the factory itself (don't waste the $5 for the factory tour, though; you'll be sorely disappointed).

Wine & Liquor

The supermarkets on the road connecting Oranjestad with the Low-Rise area -- Kong Hing Supermarket and Ling & Sons Supermarket -- boast sizable liquor departments and the best prices.

The Weather

Almost invariably, the weather is wonderful -- warm, sunny, dry, and breezy. There's no monsoon season and no threat of tropical storms -- the island is far outside the hurricane belt. The average annual temperature is 82�F (28�C), and no month of the year has an average high temperature lower than 85�F (29�C) or higher than 89�F (32�C). Lows range from 76�F (24�C) to 80�F (27�C).

The sun can be hot, and its reflection off the white sandy beaches is blinding. Fortunately, the almost-constant trade winds make it easy to forget just how warm it is. Usually a godsend, these pleasant, gentle breezes can occasionally escalate to surprising gusts or sustained winds, so hold onto your hat. In September, though, you'll wish they were back. Tropical storms plaguing less-fortunate islands far to the north suck away the trade winds during that back-to-school month, making Aruba as hot as any other spot in the Caribbean. Unless you fancy relentless heat with no relieving breezes, avoid visiting in September.

The wind provides a collateral perk, too. It blows away annoying mosquitoes and other flying pests. When the breezes wane, it's time to bring out the insect repellent. Aruba's dry, though, so you'll never encounter the number of bugs that infest more lush islands.

Rainfall averages about 18 inches a year, with most precipitation falling from October through January. Even then rains tend to be erratic and brief; it's rare for the sun not to shine most of the day.

Another plus: The humidity is less oppressive in Aruba than in most of the Caribbean. Although not exactly Arizona, the island's more dusty than sultry.

Hurricanes -- The curse of much of the Caribbean, hurricanes are something you can gleefully ignore if you're vacationing in Aruba. The island is miles and miles from the storms that wreak havoc on much of the region from June to November. On rare occasions, storm activity far to the north is so violent that it causes wave action to ripple in Aruba. Some damage has occurred over the years, but it's relatively negligible.

The High Season & The Off Season

Because the weather is consistently nice year-round, Aruba's high and low seasons reflect climates in the United States and Canada rather than weather on the island. When it's cold and wintry in North America, demand for Aruba's warmth and sunshine peaks. Roughly speaking, the island's high season runs from mid-December to mid-April. During this period, hotels charge their highest prices, and you'll need to reserve a room well in advance -- months in advance if you want to bask on the beach over Christmas or in the depths of February. Guests during the high season tend to be older and wealthier, although there are plenty of families. The national mix weighs heavily toward Americans and Canadians.

The off season -- roughly from mid-April to mid-December (although it varies from hotel to hotel) -- is one big summer sale. All resorts routinely slash their room rates, which means you can get the same accommodations in the low season for 20% to 50% less than you would in darkest winter.

But if you think Aruba's a ghost town in the summer, think again. The deals are so attractive, and the season dovetails so nicely with Europe's traditional vacation time and South America's winter, that the island's resorts are still pretty full. The mix of visitors shifts in the summer toward families, Europeans (especially Dutch), South Americans, and the more budget-conscious from everywhere. Americans still make up the largest national group.

Some activities and attractions scale back a bit in the summer, but not much. For example, instead of six excursions a day, a tour operator may offer only three; restaurants might close an hour earlier; and hotels may use the "downtime" for new construction or renovation (ask if work is scheduled; if it's potentially disturbing, request a room far away from the noise).

If you're single and want crowds, don't worry. Lots of potential playmates are around in the summer, too.

Because the difference in high-season and low-season rates at most hotels is drastic, I've included both in chapter 3. See for yourself how much you can save if you wait a bit for your fun in the sun.

Since September 11, 2001, the travel industry worldwide suffered from political developments (such as the war in Iraq) and the reluctance of people to venture far from home. Aruba's tourist-based economy has at times been hit hard, and the Natalie Holloway incident didn't help. It may sound predatory, but in uncertain times, fearless, opportunistic travelers can find significant bargains.

Holidays

Most stores and restaurants close on official holidays. If you stay near the resort areas, however, you may not be affected at all. Here's a list of Aruba's holidays: January 1 (New Year's Day); January 25 (Birthday of Betico Croes, the father of Aruba's semi-independence); February 4, 2008, and February 23, 2009 (Carnival Monday); March 18 (National Anthem and Flag Day); March 21, 2008, and April 10, 2009 (Good Friday); March 24, 2008, and April 13, 2009 (Easter Monday); April 30 (Queen's Birthday); May 1 (Aruba's Labor Day); May 1, 2008, and May 21, 2009 (Ascension Day); December 25 (Christmas Day); December 26 (Boxing Day).

Passports

U.S. and Canadian citizens need a valid passport. Citizens of a member country of the European Union need a passport and an E.U. Travel Card. A valid passport is required of all other nationalities. When you arrive in Aruba, be prepared to show an onward or return ticket or proof of sufficient funds for your stay.

Before leaving home, make two copies of your passport, driver's license, airline ticket, and hotel vouchers. Leave one copy with someone at home; carry the other with you separately from your passport. If you lose your papers, you'll be glad you took the trouble.

Visas

Americans, Canadians, Australians, New Zealanders, and E.U. nationals can stay in Aruba for up to 3 months without a visa. If you plan to stay longer, get a visa application from the Department of Foreign Affairs in Aruba (tel. 297/583-4705; fax 297/583-8108) or at a Dutch embassy or consulate.

Medical Requirements

There are no vaccinations required for entry.

Customs

U.S. Customs regulations allow $800 worth of duty-free imports per person every 30 days. The next $1,000 worth of items is taxed at a rate of 3%. Members of a family traveling together can make joint Customs declarations, so if you're a couple with two children, you can bring back purchases worth up to $3,200 without paying any duty.

You also can send packages home duty-free -- up to $200 worth per person for personal use -- but the procedure is cumbersome. Customs Form CBP 3299 (Declaration of Unaccompanied Articles) must accompany all packages sent to you at home. You can sometimes get this form from Aruban shopkeepers or at the post office; if you can't, you can write the contents of the package and the value (up to $200) directly on the wrapper and write "personal purchases."

If you'd like to send friends or relatives back home a little something, mark the package "Unsolicited Gift." The limit is one package per addressee per day, and the value of the contents must not exceed $100.

Returning U.S. citizens at least 21 years old are allowed to bring in 1 liter of alcohol duty-free. Regardless of age, you can bring back 200 cigarettes and 100 cigars (no Cubans).

Collect receipts for all purchases made abroad. You're also required to declare on your Customs form the nature and value of all gifts received during your stay abroad. It's prudent to carry proof that you purchased expensive cameras or jewelry in the U.S., if you did. If you purchased them during an earlier trip abroad, carry proof that you previously paid Customs duty on them.

If you use any medication that contains controlled substances or requires injection, carry the original prescription or a note from your doctor.

For more specifics, contact the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (the post-Homeland Security name for the old Customs Service), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229 (tel. 202/354-1000), and request the free pamphlet Know Before You Go. It's also available on the Web at www.cbp.gov (click on "Publications").

Canadian Customs regulations allow C$500 worth of duty-free imports if you've been out of the country for 7 days or more; the limit is C$200 after a 2- to 6-day absence. A written declaration may be required. Anyone age 16 or older can bring back up to 200 cigarettes and 50 cigars. If you're old enough to possess alcohol in the province through which you reenter Canada, you may include up to 1.14 liters (39 oz.) of wine or liquor or 24 12-ounce containers of beer or ale. You can send an unlimited number of gifts valued at less than C$60 back to Canada duty-free if you mark the packages "Unsolicited Gift -- Value Under $60." Not alcohol or tobacco, though.

For a summary of Canadian rules, contact the Canada Customs and Revenue Agency (tel. 800/461-9999; www.cra-arc.gc.ca).

United Kingdom residents can receive detailed regulations by contacting HM Customs & Revenue (tel. 0845/010-9000; www.hmce.gov.uk).

Australians should request the helpful brochure Guide for Travelers -- Know Before You Go, available from the Australian Customs Service (tel. 1-300/363-263 from within Australia, or 61-2/6275-6666 from abroad; www.customs.gov.au).

For New Zealand customs information, contact the Customs Service (tel. 0800/4-CUSTOMS; www.customs.govt.nz).

Aruba Customs regulations allow incoming visitors to bring articles for personal use. Persons over age 18 can also bring in 2.25 liters of wine, 3 liters of beer, or 1 liter of liquor; and 200 cigarettes, 25 cigars, and 250 grams of tobacco.

Banks-- Banks are open Monday to Friday from 8am to noon and 1:30 to 3:45pm. Oranjestad and Noord, the town inland from Palm Beach, have many branches. You can find ATMs at the airport, in Oranjestad, and at several hotels in the Low-Rise and High-Rise areas.

Business Hours-- Stores are open from 8am to 6pm, Monday through Saturday; some close for lunch between noon and 2pm. Shops in the malls and shopping centers have slightly different hours, from 9:30am to 6pm. When cruise ships are in port, some stores in Oranjestad open on Sunday and holidays. Office hours are generally Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm.

Currency-- The coin of the realm is the Aruba florin (AFl), but U.S. dollars are universally accepted.

Documents-- Bring your passport or original birth certificate.

Drinking-- The legal age for both drinking and gambling is 18.

Electricity-- Like the United States and Canada, Aruba uses 110 volts AC (60 cycles). No transformer or adapter is needed, so feel free to bring your electrical gadgets from home.

Emergencies-- As in the United States, dial tel. 911 for police, medical, and fire emergencies.

Internet Access-- Many hotels have either data ports or wireless Internet access in the rooms and/or lobby. In addition, several Internet cafes can be found around town. In downtown Oranjestad Internet Planet (tel. 297/588-2499) in the Renaissance Mall offers business services as well as Internet access, and is open from 8:30am to 9:30pm Monday through Saturday, and 10am to 2pm on Sunday.

Language-- The official language is Dutch, but practically everybody speaks English. The language of the street is Papiamento, a local tongue that combines various European, African, and indigenous American languages. Spanish is also an official language and is widely spoken.

Medical Emergencies-- Dial tel. 911, contact your hotel's reception desk, or go to the Horacio Oduber Hospital, L. G. Smith Boulevard, near Eagle Beach (tel. 297/587-4300).

Safety-- Aruba is one of the Caribbean's safest destinations. Don't leave your valuables unattended on the beach or in an unlocked car, though. You wouldn't at home.

Taxes & Service Charges-- The government of Aruba charges a 6% room tax and a $36 airport departure tax (included in the price of your ticket). Hotels and restaurants often add service charges of 10% to 12%.

Telephone-- To call Aruba from the United States, dial 011 (the international access code), then 297 (Aruba's country code), then 58 (the area code) and the five-digit local number. When in Aruba, dial only the five-digit local number for locations on the island. AT&T customers can dial tel. 800-8000 from special phones at the cruise docks and at the airport to get service; from other phones, dial tel. 121 to place a collect or AT&T calling card call. International calls and local cellphone calls from hotels are exorbitantly expensive, about $2.00 a minute. There are no toll-free numbers; you'll pay $1.50 per minute even if you're dialing an 800 number. MCI's access number in Aruba is tel. 800-8888. Sprint's access number throughout the Caribbean is tel. 001-800/877-8000. To make a local call from a payphone, you can purchase a phone card from nearly any hotel desk, gas station, or convenience store. They come in $5, $9, and $18 denominations. Cellphones can be rented from the airport by the day and can be used to make local and international calls. The two main carriers are Digicell and Setarnet. Rates are $8 per day for the first five days, and $5 per day for each subsequent day. Additional charges for outgoing and incoming calls apply.

Time-- Aruba is on Atlantic Standard time year-round. For most of the year, the island is 1 hour ahead of Eastern Standard time (when it's noon in Aruba, it's 11am in New York, 10am in Chicago, and 8am in Los Angeles). When the United States is on daylight saving time, the time in New York and Aruba is the same.

Water-- The water, which comes from the world's second-largest desalination plant, is pure and absolutely safe to drink. Bottled water is widely available.

Birding -- Next to The Mill Resort and the Wyndham in the High-Rise area, the Bubali Bird Sanctuary attracts more than 80 ornithological species to its nutrient-rich ponds and wetlands. How many brown pelicans, black olivaceous cormorants, herons, and egrets can you spot? Farther afield, Arikok National Park features several diverse ecosystems in a compact area. Birds here include hummingbirds (common emerald and ruby-topaz), rufous-collared sparrows, tropical mockingbirds, ospreys, yellow orioles, American kestrels, black-faced grassquits, yellow warblers, Caribbean parakeets, long-tongued bats, common ground doves, troupials, crested caracaras, and Aruban burrowing owls. The Wyndham, Radisson, Hyatt, and Renaissance offer close encounters with a variety of showy tropical species like toucans, cockatoos, and macaws.

Fishing -- Local fishermen use simple hand lines (fishing line, hooks, and lead weights) to bring up red snapper and dolphin fish. Most activity takes place along the southwest coast, although some anglers occasionally venture to the north coast, where the rough seas trap fish in small pools carved out of the limestone bluffs. To try your hand at deep-sea fishing, charter one of the many skippered boats. Typical catches include barracuda, amberjack, sailfish, wahoo, blue and white marlin, kingfish, bonito, and black- and yellow-fin tuna. A few restaurants will even cook and serve up your day's catch.

Golf -- On the island's northern tip, Tierra del Sol is one of the Caribbean's best golf courses. The championship 18-hole, par-71 course was designed by Robert Trent Jones II and features stupendous views of the ocean and the California Lighthouse. Bunkers, cacti, and coral rock come into play throughout the course, while water hazards are confined to holes 13, 14, and 15. Gusting to speeds of 64kmph (40 mph), the wind is the real challenge, though. Club selection is often crucial. Near San Nicolas, the Aruba Golf Club has seen better days and is used primarily by locals. It has been trumped by the recently opened Divi Links, near Druif Beach, a picturesque 9-hole course surrounded by landscaped water traps, lakes, and lagoons, and boasting a camera that captures your final shot so you can review the tape over drinks in the clubhouse that overlooks the greens.

Hiking -- The sun is hot, and the scant foliage offers little respite, but if you bring water and a wide-brimmed hat, traversing Aruba's hills and coastline is worth the effort. Arikok National Park has the best trails. Climb the island's highest hills, explore abandoned gold mines, poke around plantation ruins, trek through caves, and comb limestone cliffs for coral and small-animal bones (leave everything where you found it, please). The network of trails is clearly marked. Hiking boots are nice, but sneakers will do.

Horseback Riding -- Aruba's coastline and outback are just as dramatic when viewed from the saddle. Several ranches offer early morning and midday excursions, or you can ride off into the sunset. As you wend your way through cacti and random boulders in the outback, watch for iguanas and skittish cottontails. Stop at Alto Vista Chapel and California Lighthouse, then ride along the shore. Or start at the crashing waves and sand dunes of the northern coast before heading for the Natural Pool. Keep your eyes open for bickering parakeets and hovering hummingbirds. That ominous bird circling over your head? Not to worry: It only looks like a vulture.

Jet Skiing -- Harleys of the sea -- just as fast, just as noisy. Put on your black leather swimming trunks and head for Palm Beach, where several vendors have one- and two-seaters.

Kayaking -- The leeward (south) coast's calm waters are ideal for kayaking. Starting near the old fishing village of Savaneta, guided tours hug the coastal mangrove forests before crossing a lagoon to a small island, where you can have a bite to eat and snorkel.

Off-Roading -- All-terrain vehicles that look like a cross between a dune buggy and a tractor mower let you play Road Warrior, and can be rented by the hour or the day. For those who want the thrill of the ride without the fear of getting lost, guided tours embark from several tour agencies.

Parasailing -- Aruba looks even better from 180m (591 ft.) in the air. Flight time is only 10 minutes, but secure in your boat-towed parachute, you're on top of the world. Several watersports centers along Palm Beach will be happy to put wind in your sails. Take a waterproof camera along to show your friends back home that you've been there, done that.

Sailing -- Sailing adventures are available day and night. Some include watersports, while others feature drinks, snacks or a full gourmet dinner. For night owls, dance-and-booze cruises include a midnight dip in the sea. If you have something special to celebrate, charter a private yacht. Catamarans, trimarans, and ketches are available. The calm waters along the southern coast are also ideal for extra-buoyant individual sailboats like Sunfish. At DePalm island the trimaran Windriders come complete with a captain to navigate the waters or give you a crash course in sailing.

Scuba Diving -- Aruba offers enough coral reefs, marine life, and wreck diving to keep most wetsuit-wearing folks happy. The water temperature averages 80�F (27�C), but during winter it can dip into the mid-70s. Due to currents and plankton, visibility varies, but at the leeward dive sites it usually ranges from 18 to 36m (59-118 ft.). The bountiful plankton nourishes a dense coral population, especially brain, sheet, finger, and mountainous star coral. Freshwater runoff is minimal. Sunken airplane fuselages and shipwrecks (including the largest in the Caribbean) are among the most popular destinations. In addition to snappers, grunts, angelfish, damselfish, and parrotfish, divers regularly spot less common species like frogfish, seahorses, nudibranchs, black crinoids, basket stars, scorpionfish, and eels. Barracudas, tarpons, and jacks also call Aruba's waters home.

Snorkeling -- Good visibility, several shallow reefs, and a couple of wrecks give snorkelers an array of options. All sites are on the southern, or leeward, coast. Slightly north of Palm Beach, Catalina Bay and Arashi Reef feature brain and star coral, sea fans, parrotfish, angelfish, and an occasional octopus; the 400-foot Antilla shipwreck is impossible to miss. De Palm Slope, off De Palm Island, features magnificent coral as well.

Snuba -- Though not affording you the freedom and excitement of scuba, this technology allows you to breathe while descending up to 6.1m (20 ft.) by way of a regulator tethered to a floating tank of compressed air. No experience is necessary; most of the catamaran tours allow passengers the option either before or during the trip to sign up and give it a whirl. On DePalm Island, you can also try Sea Trek, where you don a diving helmet and weighted boots and explore the sea floor; though you won't see much coral, you will see a submerged bus and plane, and can sit for a photo-op at a submerged cafe table. For those who like toys, grab a motorized jet pack and try Power Snorkel; just hold on to your swimsuit with one hand, the jet pack with the other, and pray you don't wind up in Venezuela!

Underwater Touring -- Another way to experience life at the bottom of the sea is aboard a submarine, where you can descend 45m (148 ft.) to observe coral, shipwrecks, and some very curious fish. If you'd rather not have your vessel submerge completely, hop on a glass-bottom boat. The viewing deck is only 1.5m (5 ft.) below the surface, but a scuttled German freighter, encrusted with coral and teeming with other marine life, is just feet away. The sub leaves from a pier in front of the Crystal Casino in Oranjestad; the glass-bottom boat departs from Pelican Pier on Palm Beach.

Windsurfing & Kitesurfing -- Aruba's high-wind season is the longest in the Caribbean. Wind speeds are best in May, June, and July, when they average 20 to 25 knots. From December through April, they slow to 15 to 20 knots, and from September through November they range from 10 to 20 knots. Most launches are on the leeward side of the island, near the hotels and major beaches. The most popular site is off the northwest tip of the island on Malmok Beach, an area known as Fishermen's Huts. Near San Nicolas, Rodgers Beach, and Boca Grandi are alternatives to the hotel area. To avoid collisions, kitesurfers and windsurfers take turns throughout the day.

If you can lift yourself from the sand, rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle and venture into the island's outback. Follow the dirt roads as they toil through alien landscapes of oddly balanced boulders, jagged cliffs, and furious seascapes. The terrain may seem harsh, but the cacti and divi divi trees love it. The tall organ-pipe cacti are known locally as cadushi, the prickly pear variety are called tuna, and the barrel species is bushi. Start from the resort area, head toward the California Lighthouse, and then follow the dirt road as it traces the island's perimeter.

Ready for something completely surreal? At the south end of the High-Rise area, the tropical gardens of the Butterfly Farm, on J. E. Irausquin Boulevard, across the street from the Divi Phoenix Beach Resort (tel. 297/586-3656; www.thebutterflyfarm.com), dance with a thousand beautiful butterflies. The 40 species bred at the facility hail from every corner of the tropical world. It's easy to marvel at the colors of the ethereal flutterers, and guides provide amusing explanations of the short but sweet life of the average lepidopteron. Did you know that caterpillars double in size every 24 hours? That butterfly sex lasts for up to 48 hours? Visit as early in the day as possible -- that's when the wing-flapping is maximal. Admission is $12 for adults, $6 for children 4 to 16, and is good for unlimited return trips for an entire week. Open daily from 9am to 4:30pm.

Aruba's most distinctive landmark is the Old Dutch Windmill, J. E. Irausquin Blvd. 330, around the corner from the Butterfly Farm, near Palm Beach (tel. 297/586-2060). It's an anomaly in the Caribbean, but it's authentic. Built in Friesland, Holland, in 1804, it originally drained water from low-lying land. Damaged by a storm in 1878, it was later rebuilt at another site in the Netherlands to mill grain. In 1929, another storm hit the windmill, which stood idle until 1960, when a Dutch merchant shipped it to Aruba. It reopened in 1974 and has since housed a series of restaurants and late-night bars, which seem to come and go depending on the direction of the wind, perhaps.

Although Aruba is as arid as the desert, the lush Bubali Bird Sanctuary, on J. E. Irausquin Boulevard, serves as a resting and breeding area for more than 80 species of local and migratory birds. Across the street from the Old Dutch Windmill, the poorly marked but worthwhile sanctuary was once a salt pan. Today the two interconnected manmade lakes are flooded by overflow from a nearby water-treatment facility and surrounded by lush vegetation. The fish in the nutrient-rich ponds attract brown pelicans and black olivaceous cormorants. In the constantly undulating marsh grasses (like something out of a van Gogh painting), black-crowned night herons, Louisiana herons, great blue herons, common egrets, and snowy egrets abound. Gulls, skimmers, coots, and numerous species of ducks also make appearances. The easy-to-climb observation tower gives avian enthusiasts a bird's-eye view of the oasis; though nonbirders and romantics alike will enjoy the spectacular view of the entire area. Dawn and dusk, when the birds are most active, are the best times to visit. The sanctuary is always open; admission is free.

Go north from the bird sanctuary, past half of the High-Rise hotels, and turn right at the first traffic light. Proceed a mile or two to the next traffic light. Originally built in 1776 and last renovated in 1916, Santa Anna Church boasts a soaring ceiling and an intricately carved altar, communion rail, and pulpit. The neo-Gothic oak altar, carved in 1870 for a parish in the Dutch province of Noord-Brabent by Hendrik van der Geld, came to Aruba in 1928. The two stained glass windows, dating from 1932 and 1965, honor four former lay priests of Alto Vista Chapel (described later in this section). The adjacent cemetery has no grass, but its hodgepodge of crypts painted in tropical pastel colors and festooned with a verdant garden of plastic flower wreaths is bright and meditative. A family of resident burrowing owls stares down from their perch at uninvited intruders. The church, which is usually locked, is on Caya F. D. Figaroa at its intersection of Palm Beach in Noord (tel. 297/586-1409 or 297/587-4747). Sunday Mass is celebrated at 7:30am and 6pm in Papiamento. Mass in English is at 11am.

From the church, drive north for about 5 minutes. The California Lighthouse sits on a hilltop perch at Aruba's northernmost tip, but its active days are over. Part of the adjacent restaurant once served as the lighthouse keeper's home. The beacon itself has been closed to the public for a number of years, ever since someone committed suicide by jumping from its summit. The surrounding area features some of the island's most spectacular scenery -- gentle sand dunes, rocky coral shoreline, and turbulent waves. The picturesque structure gets its name from the California, a passenger ship that sank off the nearby coast before the lighthouse was completed in 1916.

Now it's time to leave paved roads behind. Turn right at the lighthouse and follow the dirt trail along the dramatic northern coast. The road's rough state precludes speeding, but within 15 minutes you'll reach another man-made attraction. Built in 1750, abandoned in the 1800s and rebuilt 200 years later, the picturesque Alto Vista Chapel [ST] radiates serenity from its cactus-studded perch overlooking the sea. The chapel, Aruba's first, was built by Caiquetio Indians and Spanish settlers before the island had its own priest. The church's ancient Spanish cross is one of the oldest European artworks in the Dutch Caribbean, and the altar's statue has a devoted local following. Secluded near the island's northwestern corner, just off the road hugging the northeast coast, the bright yellow structure, little more than a hut, rests at the end of a winding road lined with white crosses marking the stations of the cross.

Five minutes farther down the coast, you'll come to the Bushiribana Ruins. According to local legend, in 1824 a 12-year-old boy came across gold in one of the dry creek beds on Aruba's north coast. Naturally, the discovery set off a gold frenzy. For 30 years, Arubans were allowed to collect the precious metal, provided they sold it at a set price. In 1854, a gold-mining concession was granted to the Aruba Island Goldmining Company, which built this smelter on the north coast in 1872. Although the facility operated for only 10 years, its hulking ruins still dominate the area. Climb the multitiered interior for impressive sea views. Too bad the walls have been marred with artless graffiti.

From the ruins, you'll be able to see a line of cars heading for the next site, just minutes away. Once the island's most photographed attraction, the Natural Bridge rose 7.5m (25 ft.) above the sea and spanned 30m (98 ft.) of rock-strewn waters. Centuries of relentless pounding by the surf carved the arch out of the limestone coast and no doubt led to its unfortunate collapse in September 2005. Luckily, the appropriately named Baby Bridge stands only a few feet away. While it lacks the dramatic arch of its namesake, it's still pretty cool and is sturdy enough (so far) to stand on and view the rugged sea below. The nearby thirst-aid station supplies refreshments and souvenirs.

Retrace the dirt road back to the first intersection and turn left. The road soon becomes paved, and within 5 minutes, take a right. (Signage is nonexistent here, so don't be shy about asking for directions.) Looking like something out of "The Flintstones," the eerie Ayo Rock Formations served Aruba's early inhabitants as a dwelling or religious site. The reddish-brown petroglyphs on the boulders suggest magical significance, and the strange stones look as though they were stacked by giants. The site is open daily from 9am to 5pm, and admission is free.

If you like the Ayo rocks, continue on the main road to its end. Turn right, then take another right at the sign for the Casibari Rock Formations. These alien rocks rise from the cacti- and lizard-infested hills. Although the boulders weigh several tons each, they look freshly scattered by some cyclopean dice-roller. Look for the formations that resemble birds and dragons, or climb the trail to the top of the highest rock mound for a panorama of the area. Watch your head on the path to the top, though; the tunnels have low clearance. The rock garden is open daily from 9am to 5pm, with no admission charge. The nearby stands sell souvenirs, snacks, soft drinks, and beer.

If you have children, or just like animals, stop by the Donkey Sanctuary (tel. 297/965-6986, or 297/568-4091, www.arubandonkey.org), half a mile from the Ayo Rock Formation, where dozens of these feral yet gentle animals are corralled, fed, and cared for. The staff will eagerly share their knowledge with you about the history and ecology of Aruba's donkeys, many of which still roam the countryside. A small refreshment stand serves drinks and snacks. Hours are from 9am to 12:30pm weekdays and 10am to 3pm Saturday and Sundays. Even if the sanctuary is closed, you can still pet and ogle the friendly, if vocal, donkeys over the fence.

Another opportunity for animal encounters is the Ostrich Farm (tel. 297/585-9630), on the road between the Baby Bridge and the Bushiribana Gold Smelter Ruins. Here you can tour the grounds and meet the resident ostriches; the 20-minute tour is sadly lacking in any valuable information about these amazing birds, which stand over 6 feet tall and can weigh close to 300 pounds. The tired tour guides seem more interested in getting the tour over with than bestowing pearls of wisdom about the reproductive ecology of the birds themselves. Visitors can, nonetheless, feed a hungry harem of females; compare and contrast the ostriches with their close kin, emus; test the incredible strength of an egg at the hatchery; then head back to the pavilion to browse the impressive gift shop full of carved wood and textiles shipped in from Africa. One can also sample ostrich meat at the African-themed restaurant. While the idea is disturbing, the dark meat is surprisingly tasty and bears a striking resemblance to tender steak. The ostrich farm and restaurant are open daily from 9am to 5pm. The last tour is at 4pm.

Arikok National Park (tel. 297/582-8001), Aruba's showcase ecological preserve, sprawls across roughly 20% of the island. Rock outcrops, boulders, and crevices create microclimates that support animal species found only in Aruba, including the Aruban rattlesnake, Aruban cat-eyed snake, Aruban whiptail lizard, Aruban burrowing owl, and Aruban parakeet. Iguanas and many species of migratory birds live in the park as well, and goats and donkeys graze on the hills. Examples of early Amerindian art, abandoned mines from Aruba's gold-rush past, and remains of early farms dot the park. Sand dunes and limestone cliffs ornament the coast. It's easy to explore the preserve, but bring water, sunscreen, and food, and wear a hat and comfortable walking shoes. Birds and animals are most active in the morning, so go as early in the day as you can.

The government has plans to develop the area responsibly, but for now the sites can be reached by dirt road and hiking trail only. Routes are clearly marked, and signs are becoming more frequent and informative. If you're really into it, though, stop by the National Park office at Piedra Plat 42 in Paradera, on the main road between the Low-Rise area and Santa Cruz, to buy the excellent $15 guidebook. The office is open Monday through Friday from 7:30am to 4:30pm.

Miralamar, a complex of gold mines and trenches, was active during the first decade of the 20th century. The hills along the path here are overgrown with yellow poui and white gum trees, and derelict buildings at the site include the foundations of an ore-testing lab, sleeping quarters, and a forge. Due to transportation problems and low-quality ore, the mines were abandoned in 1916, and many of the shafts collapsed. Century plants have now reclaimed the area.

Masiduri served as an experimental garden in the 1950s; the convergence of several creek beds makes the location reasonably moist. The eucalyptus trees and cunucu (farm) house date from the same era. The site now features an aloe-cultivation exhibit. In the early 1900s, Aruba was a major exporter of this plant known for its medicinal and healing properties. Today the sheltered location and comparatively moist conditions draw a variety of reptiles, including Aruban cat-eyed snakes. Feral donkeys, descendants of animals domesticated for transportation, come at night to rest.

The partially restored farm known as Cunucu Arikok recalls Aruba's agricultural past. It takes 45 minutes to complete the circular hiking trail through boulders, vegetation, and wildlife; shaded benches provide relief along the way. Beans, corn, millet, peanuts, and cucumbers were once cultivated at the site, and to protect the crops from goats, sheep, and donkeys, cactus hedges and stone walls were built. The restored adobe farmhouse has the typical small windows and a sloping roof. Cactus was used to make roof beams, and mud and grass formed the walls. A barn, threshing floor, pigpen, and outhouse surround the house. Before Europeans arrived, Amerindians left drawings of birds and marine animals on overhanging rocks just off the trail near the parking lot. At dawn and dusk, the area is alive with parakeets, doves, troupials, mockingbirds, hummingbirds, lizards, and cottontail rabbits.

Prins Plantation, a complex of abandoned adobe structures, witnessed the cultivation of hundreds of coconut trees as recently as the 1960s. Passing by an old farmhouse, well, aloe field, and crumbling stone walls, the 45-minute walk provides views of a nearby ocean cove. Wildlife attracted to the vegetation includes iguanas, cottontails, troupials, parakeets, mockingbirds, kestrels, and caracaras (huge vulturelike hawks).

At the seacoast, the terrain and vegetation change dramatically from hills covered with cacti and divi divi trees to sand dunes and limestone bluffs studded with sea grapes and sea lavender. Soldier crab and lizard trails crisscross the morning sand of Boca Prins, and in the early spring, baby sea turtles hatch and wobble frantically toward the sea. Steps from the parking lot, stairs descend to Fuente, a rocky cove pounded by the surf. On the limestone bluff across the sandy beach, salt spray infuses the air, and small salt pans form where trapped water has evaporated. Bleached coral and bones litter the sharp plateau, and ospreys and caracaras patrol the coast. A 20-minute walk farther west along the coast, Dos Playa features two coves carved out of the limestone bluff. With its wide sandy beach, the first cove attracts sunbathers and is perfect for picnics, but its strong current makes swimming too dangerous. Stop by the nearby restaurant for some tasty local fare; it's the only restaurant in the park; good thing the view and food are both pretty good.

Tucked away on the coast northwest of Dos Playa, the Natural Pool or conchi known as Cura di Tortuga is protected from the rough sea by surrounding rocks. It's said that the pool was once used to hold sea turtles before they were sold (tortuga means turtle in Papiamento). On quiet days, the pool is great for a swim, but bathing is risky when waves leap the rock barrier. It's a considerable hike to the pool from the parking lot at Boca Prins; take a horseback or ATV tour to the site on another day to fully enjoy the unforgettable experience of taking a refreshing dip in this anything-but-placid pool.

A 15-minute walk from Boca Prins, Fontein Cave is the most popular of several small limestone hollows along the north coast (you'll pass the park's only restaurant on the way to the cave). Brownish-red drawings left by Amerindians and graffiti etched by early European settlers ornament the walls and ceilings. Calcareous-rich water dripping through the limestone has caused stalagmites and stalactites to form, some in the shape of bison or human heads (park rangers stationed at the cave will point them out). The hole is an important roosting place for long-tongued bats. Early in the evening, the flying mammals leave the cave for nectar and pollen.

A Dutch family owned the patch of land south of Fontein Cave at the beginning of the 19th century. Known as Hofi Fontein (fountain garden), it's the only place along the north coast with a freshwater spring. In the early 20th century, Chinese immigrants grew vegetables here, which explains the area's other common name, Chinese Garden. The humble museum, with animal, plant, and colonial-life displays, is worth a look, and rangers are happy to answer your questions.

The Quadirikiri Cave features two large chambers with roof openings that allow sunlight in, making flashlights unnecessary. Hundreds of small bats use the 30m-long (98-ft.) tunnel as a passageway to their nests deeper in the cave. A tale associated with Quadirikiri is dubious: The fiercely independent daughter of an Indian chief was trapped in the cave with her "unsuitable" suitor and left to perish. Defiant even in death, the spirits of the star-crossed lovers burst through the cave's roof and up to heaven.

Also known as the Tunnel of Love because of its heart-shaped entrance, the Baranca Sunu cave requires a flashlight to explore. Stories of pirates using the cave to hide treasure have circulated for generations, but there's no evidence to confirm the rumors. In fact, the only pirates around are the locals who hawk flashlights for $10 each, some of which are rumored to stop working halfway through your cave excursion. Rather than return to the park entrance, follow the road along the coast. It eventually becomes a paved route that leads to San Nicolas.

Aruba's capital attracts more shoppers than sightseers; it's also a popular cruise port. The town has a sunny Caribbean demeanor, with Dutch colonial-style buildings painted in vivid colors. While the gingerbread architecture proliferates along the main streets in town, the vast majority is not original; the modern buildings were designed to replicate the ornate gingerbread architecture of the colonial era. The main thoroughfare, L. G. Smith Boulevard, runs along the waterfront and abounds with marinas, shopping malls, restaurants, and bars. Caya G. F. Betico Croes, or Main Street, runs roughly parallel to the waterfront several blocks inland; it's another major shopping venue. The harbor is packed with fishing boats and schooners docked next to stalls, where vendors hawk fruits, vegetables, and fish. On the other side of the Seaport Marketplace shopping mall, Queen Wilhelmina Park, named after one of Holland's longest-reigning monarchs, features manicured lawns, views of colorful fishing boats, and luxuriant tropical vegetation. If you're looking for a little culture, Oranjestad has a handful of museums and houses of worship.

San Nicolas & Savaneta

Roughly 80% of Arubans are Roman Catholic, and parish churches dot the island. In Seroe Pretoe, near San Nicolas on the way from Arikok National Park, the Lourdes Grotto, a shrine to Our Lady of Lourdes, was built in the limestone rocks in 1958 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Virgin Mary's purported appearance to a peasant girl, St. Bernadette, in the south of France. Another grotto lies directly across the road. Neither is particularly noteworthy, probably because the local parish prohibits anyone from leaving candles, statues, pictures, or testimonials. Chartreuse parakeets inhabit the area.

Farther along the same road, the outback suddenly gives way to Aruba's second-largest town, San Nicolas. A phosphate-exporting port from 1879 until 1915, this town landed Esso's Lago oil refinery in 1924. Once the world's largest, the refinery attracted workers from other Caribbean islands, South America, and Europe. In 1942, U.S. troops landed to protect the complex, which supplied much of the Allies' aircraft fuel during the war. By 1951, the town had a population of 20,000, far more than Oranjestad at the time. The refinery closed in 1985, devastating the town and the island. It reopened in 1990 with a new owner, Texas-based Coastal Oil, which was then sold to Valero in 2004. Now that tourism has replaced oil as the island's major business, San Nicolas has waned in importance. One remnant of the town's "port atmosphere" remains: Prostitution is actually legal in San Nicolas.

The center of Aruba's fishing industry, Savaneta is the island's oldest town and original capital. During the early Dutch period, its harbor was the safest place for ships, and in the mid-1800s, the area was known for breeding cochineals, insects that were crushed to produce the dye carmine. Retaining its salty tang, the town boasts a couple of good restaurants and a beachside spa.

On your way back home, you'll pass Hooiberg. At 162m (531 ft.), it may not be Aruba's highest hill, but it's the island's favorite landmark. If you have the stamina, climb the hundreds of steps (15-20 min.) to the summit; on a clear day, you can see Venezuela.

For an updated list of events, and specific dates, times, and locations, contact the Aruba Tourism Authority (tel. 800/TO-ARUBA; www.aruba.com/calendar/index.html).

January

Dande. For almost 200 years, roaming troubadours have marked the end of the old year and the beginning of the new in Aruba. As the clock strikes midnight, groups of musicians go from house to house serenading each family with good wishes for the coming year. Although the tune and refrain are constant, lyrics are improvised for individual families, leading to innuendo and light-hearted hilarity. If the dande group misses your home, you'll have nothing but bad luck in the coming year. Some families set off fireworks after they've been serenaded, and the mother of the house often sweeps out the "old spirit." January 1.

Betico Croes Day. G. F. "Betico" Croes, Aruba's seminal political leader, was instrumental in the island's fight for "Status Aparte" -- semi-independence from Holland and autonomy from the other Dutch islands in the Caribbean. Low-key patriotic observances mark the holiday. January 25.

February

Carnival. Highlights of Aruba's version of pre-Lenten revelry include the Children's Parade (toddlers, dwarfed by their elaborate costumes, dance down the street) and the Grand Carnival Parades in Oranjestad and San Nicolas (calypso, marching, and drumming contests). During the Tivoli Lighting Parade, thousands of miniature lights blanket the costumes and floats. Representatives of the island's various districts vie for the title of Carnival queen, and unsuspecting tourists, whisked off their planes, help decide the winner. Many hotels get into the spirit by hosting their own parties and queen elections. The parties, dancing, and music begin in January, culminating on the weekend before Ash Wednesday. February 26, 2006, and February 17, 2007.

March

National Anthem and Flag Day. In celebration of Aruba's flag, anthem, and autonomy, nationalistic exhibits, folkloric presentations, and fireworks displays take place island-wide. Children sing the national anthem -- on the streets, television, and radio -- ad infinitum and off-key. March 18.

April

Queen's Birthday. To celebrate the birthday of Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands, kite contests, sporting events, and cultural programs are held around the island. April 30.

May

Soul Beach Music Festival. This star-studded event takes place over Memorial Day weekend. Performers in the past have included Wyclef Jean, Sean Paul, Chaka Khan, and other renowned rhythm and blues performers. Held at the Havana Beach Club, a waterfront venue on the edge of town, this festival includes not only music, but also comedy, beach parties, and plenty of nightclub action. For more information go to www.soulbeach.net.

June

Hi-Winds World Challenge. Windsurfers from 30 countries gather at Hadicurari, or Fishermen's Huts, just north of the High-Rise hotels, for one of the most popular competitions in the Caribbean. For information, call tel. 297/582-3777. End of June through early July.

Dera Gai (St. John's Day). Centuries ago, after harvesting crops, the island's indigenous people built bonfires, then challenged one another to jump over them. Storytelling, music, dancing, and food and drink fueled the merriment. Later a rooster was buried up to its neck and covered with a calabash gourd. Blindfolded men with sticks had three chances to "find" the rooster; the winner kept the fowl for dinner. Spanish Catholic influence later tied the celebration to the feast day of John the Baptist. Today a dummy rooster is used, but the music and dancing persist. Crop remnants and other disposable items are buried in a symbolic soul cleansing. June 24.

Aruba Jazz & Latin Music Festival. International and local artists perform in a weekend celebration of two of the hemisphere's great musical traditions. Call tel. 297/582-3777 for information. End of June.

July

Heineken Music Festival, Oranjestad. Bands from around the Caribbean perform in a free concert. Call tel. 297/582-3777 for information. First week of July.

Aruba Perrier Reef Care Project. Joining forces to raise awareness of the marine environment, certified divers, snorkelers, and topsiders clean up beaches and underwater sites. For details, call tel. 297/582-3777. First weekend in July.

August

Aruba International Pro-Am Golf Tournament. Professional and amateur golfers team up in this 2-day, 36-hole tournament that features prizes, special events, and parties. Call tel. 297/582-3777 for details. Late August.

October

Festival de las Am�ricas. Musical groups from far and wide perform rhythms from around the Americas. Call tel. 297/582-3777 for information. Early October.

Fourth Annual Aruba Music Festival. On Columbus Day weekend, this event features such heavyweights as Crosby, Stills, and Nash; Jackson Brown; John Mayer; and Chicago. For more information contact the ATA special events line at tel. 297/582-3777.

Deep Sea Fishing Tournament. The Aruba Nautical Club hosts yachts from the United States, Venezuela, Puerto Rico, Curacao, Bonaire, and Aruba. Call tel. 297/585-3022 for information. End of October.

November

Aruba Super Nationals, San Nicolas. This international drag racing event takes place at International Raceway Palo Marga in San Nicolas and draws competitors from the U.S., Puerto Rico, Venezuela, Curacao, Bonaire, and St. Maarten. Early November.

Aruba International Catamaran Regatta. Catamarans from Europe and North and South America compete. For details, call tel. 297/582-3777. Mid- to late November.

December

Sint Nicolaas Day, Oranjestad. Sint Nicolaas arrives at Paardenbaai Harbor in Oranjestad to greet Aruba's children and reward them with gifts for their good behavior during the year. December 5.

After several hours in flight, your plane approaches Aruba, and you get your first view of the small, unassuming island. Caressed by spectacularly colorful waters, the sun-drenched beaches look ready to warm your body. The cold and snow back home are a million miles away. In about an hour, you'll be sipping a tropical cocktail at your hotel's poolside bar. Because there's nothing jarringly unfamiliar about Aruba, this is going to be stress-free: People speak English, most tourists are from the U.S. and Canada, most prices are in dollars, driving's on the right side of the road, and you can drink the water. It's time to start your vacation. Full speed ahead.