Although the Eastern Caribbean dollar (EC$) is used on these islands, only certain tiny restaurants present their prices in the local currency. When you inquire about a price, make sure you know which type of dollar is being quoted.

In St. John's

The most colorful sight of St. John's is the Saturday morning market, when many islanders come into the capital to hawk everything from birds and luscious fruits to beautiful flowers and handicrafts. The sights, sounds, and smells of Antigua are at their photographic best here from 8am to noon. However, don't snap a picture of any market person without asking permission first. Most of them will want you to tip them for the privilege of photographing them. The public market lies on Market Street at the southern end of St. John's, at the point where it intersects with All Saints Rd. and Valley Rd.

St. John's Cathedral, the Anglican church between Long and Newgate streets at Church Lane (tel. 268/462-4686), has resurrected itself time and again -- it's been destroyed by earthquakes and rebuilt on the same site at least three times since it was first constructed in 1683. The present structure dates from 1845. Exhibits at the Museum of Antigua & Barbuda, at Market and Long streets (tel. 268/462-1469), are within one of Antigua's oldest buildings, built by English colonials in 1750 as a courthouse. The museum covers the island's history, from prehistoric days up to its independence from Britain in 1981. Exhibitions include examples of each of the semiprecious stones (especially jade) you can find on Antigua, as well as models of sugar plantations, steam engines, paintings, and historical prints. It's open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 3pm and on Saturday from 10am to 2pm. There is a US$3 (�1.55) suggested donation.

Around The Island

Eighteen kilometers (11 miles) southeast of St. John's is Nelson's Dockyard National Park (tel. 268/460-1379), one of the eastern Caribbean's biggest attractions. English ships took refuge from the hurricanes in this harbor as early as 1671. The park's centerpiece is the restored Georgian naval dockyard, which was used by admirals Nelson, Rodney, and Hood, and was the home of the British fleet during the Napoleonic Wars. From 1784 to 1787, Nelson commanded the British navy in the Leeward Islands and made his headquarters at English Harbour. The dockyard museum recaptures the 18th-century era of privateers, pirates, and battles at sea. Its colonial naval buildings remain as they were when Nelson was here. Although Nelson never lived at Admiral House (tel. 268/460-8181) -- it was built in 1855 -- his telescope and tea caddy are on display, along with other nautical memorabilia.

The park itself has sandy beaches and tropical vegetation, with various species of cactus and mangroves. A migrating colony of African cattle egrets shelters in the mangroves. Archaeological sites here predate Christ. Nature trails, with coastal views, lead you through the flora. Tours of the dockyard last 15 to 20 minutes; nature walks along the trails can last anywhere from 30 minutes to 5 hours. The dockyard and all the buildings noted in this section are open daily from 9am to 5pm. Children 12 and under are admitted free. The admission price of US$5 (�2.60) includes admission to Admiral House, Clarence House, and Dow's Hill Interpretation Center .

The best nature trail on Antigua, a well-tended footpath, goes up the hill from English Harbour to Shirley Heights, beginning at the Galleon Beach Hotel. Follow the sign that points to the lookout. The trail is marked with tape on the branches of trees. Eventually you reach a summit of nearly 150m (490 ft.), where you're rewarded with a panoramic view. If you'd like to get more information about the walk, you can pick up a free brochure at the dockyard at the office of the National Parks Authority. This walk is easy; it takes less than an hour to reach the peak.

Another major attraction is the Dow's Hill Interpretation Center (tel. 268/481-5045), just 4km (2 1/2 miles) southeast of the dockyard. The only one of its kind in the Caribbean, the center presents multimedia presentations that cover six periods of the island's history, including the era of Amerindian hunters, the era of the British military, and the struggles connected with slavery. A belvedere opens onto a panoramic view of the park. Admission to the center, including the multimedia show, is included in the price of admission to the dockyards. Hours are daily from 9am to 5pm.

On the way back, take Fig Tree Drive, a 32km (20-mile) circular drive across the main mountain range. It passes through lush tropical hills and fishing villages along the southern coast. You can pick up the road just outside Liberta, north of Falmouth. Winding through a rainforest, it passes thatched villages, every one with a church and lots of goats and children running about. But don't expect fig trees: Fig is an Antiguan name for bananas.

Betty's Hope (tel. 268/462-1469), a picturesque ruin just outside the village of Pares on the eastbound route to Long Bay, was Antigua's first sugar plantation (from 1650). You can tour it Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 4pm (US$2/�1.05 for adults, free for children). Exhibits in the visitor's center trace the sugar era, and you can also see the full restoration of one of the original plantation's two windmills. If you visit, you may see the local masons, who are sporadically involved in the restoration of the curing and boiling plant, where sugar cane used to be processed into sugar, rum, and molasses.

Indian Town is one of Antigua's national parks, on the island's northeastern point. Over the centuries, Atlantic breakers have lashed the rocks and carved a natural bridge known as Devil's Bridge. It's surrounded by numerous blowholes spouting surf, a dramatic sight. An environmentally protected area, Indian Town Point lies at the tip of a deep cove, Indian Town Creek. The park fronts the Atlantic at Long Bay, just west of Indian Town Creek at the eastern side of Antigua. Birders flock here to see some 36 different species. The park is blanketed mainly by the acacia tree, a dry shrub locally known as "cassie." A large, meadowed headland around Devil's Bridge makes a great spot for a picnic. Arm yourself with directions and a good map before you start out. The main highway ends at Long Bay, but several hiking trails lead to the coastline. Our favorite hike is to Indian Town Point at a distance of 2km (1 1/2 miles). This is the most scenic walk in the park, passing through a protected area of exceptional natural beauty. Long Bay is great for snorkeling, but you'll need to bring your gear.

Forts & Photo Ops -- In the 1700s Antigua's coastline was ringed with British forts. Although they're in ruins today, the views from these former military strongholds are among the most panoramic in the Caribbean -- and you can visit them for free. You can begin at St. John's harbor (the capital), which was once guarded by Fort Barrington on the south and Fort James on the north. Later you can head down to Fort James Bay, where you'll find a couple of bars right on the sand, including Russell's Beach Bar, which is most active on Sunday afternoon. It's an ideal place to unwind with a beer. In the south, near English Harbour, check out the view from Shirley Heights.

Most of Antigua's shops are clustered on St. Mary's Street or High Street in St. John's. Some stores are open Monday to Saturday from 8:30am to noon and 1 to 4pm, but this varies greatly from place to place -- Antiguan shopkeepers are an independent lot. Many of them close at noon on Thursday.

Duty-free items include English woolens and linens. You can also purchase Antiguan goods: local pottery, straw work, rum, floppy foldable hats, shell curios, and hand-printed fabrics.

If you're in St. John's on a Saturday morning, visit the fruit and vegetable market at the south end of Market Street. The juicy Antiguan black pineapple alone is worth the trip.

One prime hunting ground in St. John's is the Redcliffe Quay waterfront on the southern edge of town, where nearly three-dozen boutiques are housed in former warehouses set around tree-shaded, landscaped courtyards. Our favorite is A Thousand Flowers (tel. 268/462-4264), which sells linens, all-natural fiber, rayon, and other fabrics.

At the Gazebo (tel. 268/460-2776), expect a little bit of everything, from a mass of south-of-the-border pottery to Indonesian wood items, and (our favorite) stunning blue-glaze plates. Additional Redcliffe Quay shops include Isis (tel. 268/462-4602) for unique Egyptian jewelry, cotton gowns, and handicrafts; and The Goldsmitty (tel. 268/462-4601), where precious stones are set in unique, exquisite creations of 14- and 18-karat gold.

Noreen Phillips, Redcliffe Quay (tel. 268/462-3127), is one of the island's major fashion outlets. Cruise-ship passengers beeline here for both casual wear and beaded glitzy dress clothes. Exotic Antigua, Radcliffe Quay, St. Mary's Street (tel. 268/562-1288), specializes in Caribbean-made gifts and clothing, including T-shirts and casual wear, and handicrafts.

At Lipstick, Heritage Quay (tel. 268/562-1133), you can browse a daunting array of cosmetics and perfumes, some of them locally made, many of the others imported from the U.S., Britain, and France. Shoul's Chief Store, St. Mary's Street at Market Street (tel. 268/462-1140), is an all-purpose department store selling fabric, appliances, souvenirs (more than 300 kinds), and general merchandise.

Heritage Quay, Antigua's first shopping-and-entertainment complex, features some 40 duty-free shops and an arcade for local artists and craftspeople. Its restaurants and food court offer a range of cuisines and views of St. John's Harbour. Many shops are open all day, Monday through Saturday.

At the foot of St. Mary's Street, stop in at The Camera Shop (tel. 268/562-4738), a Kodak distributor and photofinisher selling film and brand-name cameras. Fashiondock (tel. 268/462-9672) is known for its duty-free Prada, Moshino, and Gucci accessories, plus other Italian styles. Sunseekers (tel. 268/462-4523) carries the largest collection of duty-free swimwear in the Caribbean. Colombian Emeralds (tel. 268/462-2342) is the world's biggest retailer of these gemstones. Albert's Jewelry (tel. 268/462-3108) sells the best selection of watches on Antigua, plus china and crystal. Nick Maley, a makeup artist who worked on Star Wars and The Empire Strikes Back, founded Island Arts, upstairs at Heritage Quay (tel. 268/462-2787). You can purchase his own fine-art reproductions or browse through everything from low-cost prints to works by artists exhibited at the Museum of Modern Art in New York.

Rain Boutique, Lower St. Mary's (tel. 268/462-0118), sells casual clothes, formal wear, hats, scarves, shoes, jewelry, and handbags.

At Falmouth Harbour, Seahorse Studios & Gift Shop (tel. 268/469-1457) specializes in batiks, T-shirts, signs, and table linens. Their affiliated branch at English Harbour, Seahorse Art Gallery (tel. 268/469-1457), sells paintings, engravings, and watercolors, with lots of emphasis on seascapes.

The best for last: Head for Harmony Hall, in Brown's Bay Mill, near Freetown (tel. 268/460-4120), following the signs along the road to Freetown and Half Moon Bay. This restored 1843 plantation house and sugar mill overlooking Nonsuch Bay is ideal for a lunch stopover, a shopping expedition, even an overnight. It displays an excellent selection of Caribbean arts and crafts. Lunch is served daily from noon to 3:30pm, featuring Green Island lobster, flying fish, and other specialties. Sunday is barbecue day.

Banks -- Banks are usually open Monday to Thursday 8am to 3pm and on Friday 8am to 1pm and 3 to 5pm. Try Royal Bank at High and Market streets in St. John's (tel. 268/480-1150). You'll find several ATMs here.

Currency -- These islands use the Eastern Caribbean dollar (EC$). Nearly all hotels bill in U.S. dollars, however, and only certain tiny restaurants present their prices in EC$. When you inquire about a price, make sure you know the type of dollars quoted. The EC dollar is worth about 37� in U.S. currency (EC$2.70 = US$1). Unless otherwise specified, prices in this section are quoted in U.S. dollars and British pounds.

Customs -- Arriving visitors are allowed to bring in 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars, 1 quart of liquor, and 6 ounces of perfume.

Documents -- A valid passport is required from U.S., British, and Canadian nationals. All arriving visitors must have a departing ticket.

Electricity -- Most of the island's electricity is 220-volt AC (60 cycles), which means that U.S. appliances require transformers. The Hodges Bay area and some hotels, however, are supplied with 110-volt AC (60 cycles).

Emergencies -- In an emergency, contact the police (tel. 268/462-0125), the fire department (tel. 268/462-0044), or an ambulance (tel. 268/462-0251). You can also call tel. 911 or tel. 999 for any type of emergency.

Hospital -- The principal medical facility on Antigua is Holberton Hospital, on Hospital Road, St. John's (tel. 268/462-0251).

Language -- The official language is English.

Liquor Laws -- Beer and liquor are sold in many stores, 7 days a week. It's legal to have an open container on the beach.

Safety -- Antigua is generally safe, but that doesn't mean you should wander alone at night on St. John's near-deserted streets. Don't leave valuables unguarded on the beach, either.

Taxes & Service Charges -- Visitors must pay a departure tax of US$20 (�10) and an 8.5% government tax on hotel bills. Most hotels also add a service charge of between 10% and 15%.

Telephone -- Telephone calls can be made from hotels or the office of Cable & Wireless, on Long Street in St. John's (tel. 268/462-0840). You can also send faxes and telegrams from Cable & Wireless. To call Antigua from the United States, dial 1268, and then the number. To call the United States from Antigua, dial 1, the area code, and then the number. You might want to purchase a phone card, which you can use to connect with an American long-distance company. You can reach MCI at tel. 800/888-8000 and Sprint at tel. 800/829-0965.

Time -- Antigua is on Atlantic Standard Time year-round, so it's 1 hour ahead of U.S. Eastern Standard Time (EST). When daylight saving time takes over in the U.S., then Antigua's time is the same as the eastern United States.

Water -- Tap water is generally safe to drink here, but many visitors prefer to drink only bottled water.

Weather -- The average year-round temperature ranges from 75�F to 85�F (24�C-29�C).